NYFW Fall 2012 review: Tory Burch's rich clothes for the rest of us

With contemporary collections as upscale-looking and lavishly detailed as Tory Burch's, who needs to pay top dollar for fashion? That was what was going through my mind when I watched her polished fall runway show, full of embroidered ladylike tweed jackets and skirts, tulle and chiffon dresses with organza flower appliques, crinkled leather jackets, and structured frame bags with plastic flower and tortoise details. 

Speaking of details, there was a lot of eye candy for a song -- rows of pearls on the collar and cuffs of a cardigan jacket and matching pencil skirt with organza eyelet hem, jeweled flower buttons on a gold lamé coat and sequins dusting a houndstooth plaid skirt. (Most of Burch's clothes are in the $295 to $895 range, well below the high-end designer price point, and women seem to appreciate the level of fashion they get for the money.)

Burch has proved over the last two seasons of showing on the runway that her range extends far beyond the graphic prints, and boho prep 1960s and '70s influences that she started with in 2004. She has forged a powerful new identity for her brand as a go-to for everything from suits to understated evening dresses to luxe accessories. 

And watching all the editors and fans from around the world file into the runway show venue, Tory Burch logo bags in hand, it was clear that the cult of Tory is just beginning. 

-- Booth Moore in New York  

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All photos of Tory Burch's fall 2012 collection by Mike Coppola/Getty Images, except bottom right by Stephen Chernin/Associated Press.

New York Fashion Week: Tory Burch

Tory Burch had her first formal runway show Tuesday, and her collection held up as beautifully as ones that cost three times as much.

Using a soft palette of seaside pales such as aqua and seashell pink, and referencing the romanticism of the 1920s, was a departure for Burch, the queen of 1960s and '70s style, brash geometric prints, boho tunics and chunky gold hardware.

Now that everyone else has jumped on that bandwagon, Burch has moved on. There was a new softness to drop-waist pleated silk skirts in wave or pastel geometric prints, feminine blouses, to-die-for raffia-trimmed silk chiffon jackets and sweeping floor-length dresses with matching ropes of beads.

What was impressive is how grand the clothes looked -- for the price -- and the number of special details Burch was able to incorporate, such as a new cursive monogram embroidered on a polo sweater, and a tassel tie belt on a striped dropped-waist dress. Rounding out the collection were solid-looking cotton blazers, ankle-length pants and menswear-inspired kiltie oxford shoes.

It's looking like the big news for  spring will be color and pattern play, and it was a trip to see a model coming down Burch's runway with top-handle purse in the same navy camouflage floral print as the one on her pants. Matchy-matchy, just like our mothers did.

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-- Booth Moore

Photos: Looks from the Tory Burch spring 2012 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Fernanda Calfat /Getty Images; Richard Drew / Associated Press; Allison Joyce / Reuters

Fashion News: Kim Kardashian wed. Marc Jacobs to Dior?

Kim Kardashian indeed wore Vera Wang when she married Kris Humphries over the weekend at a private estate in Montecito. Wang herself was among the guests, as was Avril Levigne (who is dating Kim's stepbrother Brody Jenner), Ryan Seacrest, Julianne Hough, Demi Lovato and Eva Longoria.  [Los Angeles Times] [People]

It's time to pay attention to rumors that Marc Jacobs is likely to replace the fired John Galliano at Dior. Sources tell Women's Wear Daily that Bernard Arnault, head of Dior's parent company LVMH, and Jacobs are in deep discussion, and both are described as "excited." [WWD] (Subscription required.)

The tuxedo Kanye West wore to the Costume Institute Gala in May was the first Tory Burch ever designed. (The pair are shown at the gala at left). Now she plans to debut a collection of tuxes for women at her flagship store in New York in September. [Harper's Bazaar] 

Retailers are filling their shoe shelves with Manolo Blahniks for fall. The designer's single-sole, elegant shoes are a match for what one calls the season's "ladylike chic." [WWD]

Also for fall, long, parted hair will be in, along with sleek buns, bright nails and bold lips, says "The View" stylist/makeup artist Lavette Slater. [Bella Sugar] 

Vogue Italia is drawing flak for a website feature on large gold hoop earrings that it labeled "slave earrings." Bloggers all over the world took offense, accusing the magazine of trying to "glamorize slavery." "There is absolutely nothing fashionable about the history of enslaved Africans," one wrote. [Telegraph] 

Photo: Designer Tory Burch and Kanye West, wearing the tuxedo she designed, at this year's Costume Institute Gala. Credit: Stephen Lovekin / Getty Images

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--Susan Denley

Frugal Fashion: Who says Selena Gomez needs Bieber fever to attract attention?

Selena Gomez happens to be pop sensation Justin Bieber's cute girlfriend, but the young actress and singer can more than hold her own beyond Bieber fever. She's got Disney channel fans swooning with her series "The Wizards of Waverly Place," the new hit single "Who Says" and our heads turning with her refreshing, fun and flirty sense of style.

At just 18 years old, Gomez is showing some serious chops on the red carpet with looks such as the gold J. Mendel gown she wore to this year's Grammys and the beige Burberry mini at the Much Music awards. It's safe to say the fashion world has found a new "it" girl.

Gomez is already having a busy summer, with a hosting gig at the Much Music Awards last weekend and a press tour for her new film, "Monte Carlo," slated to open July 1, alongside fellow fashionistas Katie Cassidy and Leighton Meester.

At a recent promotional appearance for the film in Santa Monica, Gomez wore a white eyelet top, cuffed black shorts and a pair of two-tone high-heeled sandals by Tory Burch. She accessorized with a gladiator gold cuff, layered necklace and earrings for an extra boost of shine to her summer glow.

Gomez's top is lightweight and flowy, ideal for a day in the sun, mojito-sipping poolside. For a similar blouse check out the Elementz top for $27.99 from Macys.com, staring at stars cropped textured tee from Urban Outfitters.com for $39, the eyelet floral front top from Forever21.com for $19.80 or the inset eyelet top from the Gap for $59.95.

A black pair of shorts is a great summer transition piece, to wear for a day at the pool or a casual dinner date. For a versatile "wear-anywhere" pair try the Lacoste stretch cotton pique short for $43.99, AB Studio cuffed linen shorts from Kohls.com for $19 or the belted twill shorts from Oldnavy.com for $22.94. If you're in need of a dressier pair, snag the Bar III shorts for $49 from Macys.com.

Your morning fashion and beauty report: Johnny Weir designs LBDs. Billy Reid collection available at J. Crew

U.S. Olympic figure skater Johnny Weir's personal style is commented on as often as his skating prowess, and now he's launching a Little Black Dress collection that will be available on edressme.com starting April 30. In true Weir style, the dresses are embellished with ostrich feathers, netting and sequins. Prices run $198 to $298. They will be modeled during the second annual “Ice Dreams” skating show in Bensenville, Ill., also scheduled for April 30.  [WWD]

With only a few days to go until The Wedding, British hatmaker-to-the-aristocracy Philip Treacy is swamped.  He says he's not going to the Kate Middleton/Prince William nuptials, but "my hats will be." While he won't name names, he says, “I’m designing hats for queens, princesses, and celebrities." As per usual. [Style] 

J. Crew has teamed up with the Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund to spotlight recipients of the fund's prestigious design prize by offering capsule collections by winners and runners-up. Available now is a seven-piece collection by Billy Reid. [J. Crew]

Marlon Brando's 20-year-old grandson Tuki Brando, a medical student in France, also models and is featured in the new ad campaign for TechnoMarine watches. [Telegraph] 

After 16 years in business, Alternative Apparel is poised to expand by opening its own stores. The grand opening of its flagship is scheduled for Friday in Venice Beach. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

Tory Burch launched a new blog, torypedia, on Tumblr. [WWD] (Subscription required.) 

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Olympic skater Johnny Weir, who will launch a line of little black dresses. Credit: Kevin Winter / Getty Images

Trend alert: The 'drug rug' (Baja pullover) is back

 
Just in time for music festival season, designers have appropriated another tried-and-true piece of hippiedom--the Baja pullover. Beloved by surfers and Deadheads, and known affectionately in some hacky sack circles as "drug rugs," the woven hoodies are available at all price points. From left to right, Proenza Schouler, $1,500 at Net-a-porter; Mara Hoffman, $335 for pre-order at ShopSheBoutique.com; Elizabeth & James, $165 at revolveclothing.com; and Tory Burch, $325 at Saks.

Or you can always go trippin' down memory lane wearing an original, just $10.95 in a host of colors and stripes at Casa Bernal, and other stalls and stores on Olvera Street in Los Angeles. So they're made of acrylic instead of cotton, and they don't have a fancy designer label. They still have a kangaroo stash pocket for keys, an iPhone and whatever else lights your fire.  

--Booth Moore

Photos of Baja pullovers from Net-a-porter, ShopSheBoutique, RevolveClothing and Saks Fifth Avenue.

New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2011: Tory Burch checks off the trends

The Tory Burch collection was a little bit lady, a little bit country gentleman and a lot 1970s.

As usual, the designer checked off a lot of the season's emerging trends. Pretty blouses: the best one a bow-front style in metallic Lurex worn by the designer herself. Long skirts: in mixed plaids or floaty silk. Parkas: with fur-trimmed hoods.

Of course, the signature Tory tunic was here, too, dressed up with velvet and sequins, and worn over flared pants for a retro look.

And in a season when pants have gone from cigarette thin to gaucho wide, she staked her claim on the full-legged Palazzo pant. Too bad you have to be whippet thin to wear those, too.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Tory Burch Fall-Winter 2011 runway photo gallery

Photo top: Designer Tory Burch wearing her own design. Credit: Paul Morigi / CIRCA.

Photos below: Looks from the Tory Burch Fall-Winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.

Weekend Shopping: Post-Xmas sales at Coco de Mer, Premium Outlets and Paper Bag Princess

A few notable happenings for a more stylish weekend ...

SALES

The Paper Bag Princess holiday sale Through Dec. 31: High-end vintage palace The Paper Bag Princess is hosting a storewide 20%-off sale. Expect to run into designer handbags, rare retro jewelry, furs and vintage frocks.

8818 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 385-9036. 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday.

After-holiday sale at Camarillo and Desert Hills Premium Outlets Sunday through Jan. 2: The mix of designer and mass merchandise at the Camarillo and Desert Hills Premium Outlets is already marked down considerably -- with discounts plunging as deep as 65% off retail for labels including Tory Burch (Camarillo), Yves Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta (both at Desert Hills). But the post-holiday sales at the outdoor malls make the respective treks even more worth it, with stores slashing prices even further for a solid week.

Camarillo Premium Outlets, 740 E. Ventura Blvd., Camarillo. (805) 445-8520. 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Dec. 26; 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Dec. 27 through Dec. 30; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Dec. 31; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Jan 1; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Jan 2.

Desert Hills Premium Outlets, 48400 Seminole Dr., Cabazon. (951) 849-6641. 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Dec. 26;  9 a.m. to  9 p.m. Dec. 27 through Dec. 30; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Dec. 30; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Dec. 31; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Jan. 1; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Jan. 2.

Coco de Mer annual after-Christmas sale Through Jan. 2: Get 80% off Coco de Mer's high-end lingerie and erotic gift-ables, including boutique fragrances and subversive jewelry. 

8618 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (310) 652-0311. 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday and Monday; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

-- Emili Vesilind

Upper photo: Looks from Tory Burch's Resort 2010 collection. Credit: Tory Burch

Lower photo: Carol Wiseman's gold "Death" ring, at Coco de Mer. Credit: Coco de Mer

Holiday window gazing

 
It's that time of year again, when retailers pull out all the holiday decorating stops. I was in Las Vegas over the weekend, and I snapped a photo of this Ted Baker-does-Marilyn Monroe window at the Forum Shops. The best part? The skirt actually moves from side to side.

For her holiday windows, Tory Burch got creative with the beloved 1970s-era Hasbro toy Lite Brite. She collaborated with New York-based artist Timothy Paul Myers to transform a photo of a reindeer into a colorful, Pop Art design (at right) for the windows of all her boutiques nationwide. There are 46 installations in all, which took 4,900 hours and 2,025,000 pegs to create. 

When it came to flipping the switch, that honor went to representatives from the organization Dress for Success, who were also treated to $500 shopping sprees. (Dress for Success is a nonprofit group dedicated to improving the lives of women by providing professional clothing, employment retention programs and other assistance.)

The Barneys New York holiday windows pay tribute to celebrity chefs, as part of the season's Have A Foodie Holiday theme, in partnership with Food Network, Cooking Channel and Illy Caffe.

As you can imagine, the store's creative director Simon Doonan indulges his wildest Warholian fantasies with coffee cans and caricatures of Mario Batali, Bobby Flay, Jamie Oliver, Rachel Ray, Martha Stewart and Paula Deen (below).

 

Barneys has also assembled some fun foodie-themed products, including this hilarious Armand Diradourian "fruitcake" pillow.

I can think of about half a dozen friends and family members I would like to bestow that gift upon, and the holiday season hasn't even officially started yet!

-- Booth Moore

 

Top photo: Ted Baker holiday window. Credit: Booth Moore / Los Angeles Times

2nd photo: Tory Burch window. Credit: Tory Burch

3rd photo photo: Barneys New York's Have a Foodie Holiday window display. Credit: Peter Serling/Barneys New York.

Bottom photo: Fruitcake pillow. Credit: Barneys New York

  

 

 

New York Fashion Week: Tory Burch's spring cleaning

After several feather-, stud- and jewel-embellished seasons, Tory Burch cut through the clutter for spring, showing the kind of classic, 1970s-inspired sportswear she made her name on.

Her collection was polished and grown-up, hitting all of the season's trends, both feminine- and masculine-inspired.

At the top of the list: an orange shirt dress with billowy sleeves. (Several retail buyers have said orange is the color of the spring season.)

Mid-calf-length skirts were here, in button-front khaki, worn with a metallic T-shirt; or crisp navy, with a white blouse tucked in, and a great goldtone metal belt with cord lacing.

There were good-looking tailored pieces, too, including a striking white suit with loose pants, and an eyelet polo underneath; a navy-and-white regatta stripe suit with slim, cropped pants; and a navy-and-white space-dyed pea coat with brass buttons.

Best of all were Burch's refined takes on two icons of the boho collegiate set -- the Mexican blanket hoodie (she paired it with gold lame pants) and the African straw bag.

Well done.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Tory Burch spring - summer 2011 runway collection photo gallery

Photos: top, orange dress by Tory Burch. Credit: Jemal Countess / Getty Images. Right, khaki skirt with metallic top by Tory Burch. Credit: Elizabeth Pantaleo / Getty Images. Bottom, Mexican blanket hoodie with gold pants by Tory Burch. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson & Peter Stigter / For The Times.