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Category: Thakoon

New York Fashion Week: Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Thakoon, Jeremy Scott

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There were several designers whose answer to the spring season was a touch of wanderlust.

For Michael Kors, the destination was an African safari, and the highlight was a group of tie-dyed pieces in vivid shades of sienna, cinnamon and antelope. If only Kors had gone deeper in that direction instead of falling back on zebra-striped cliches and showing distressed (read: holey) cashmere sweaters that will no doubt cost a fortune. 

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Donna Karan was inspired by a year traveling in Haiti and had Wyclef Jean in the front row to prove it. Mask print circle skirts, color-blocked body-skimming jersey gowns with gold metal accents, wood and Lucite necklaces abounded. And yet it all seemed a bit out of touch. A colleague described the look aptly: "Port au Princess."

Thakoon Panichgul was taken with cowboys and Indians -- East Indians, that is. The result was a clever cross-cultural mash-up that married Western style with India's textile and embroidery tradition, and put an original twist on the season's print trend.

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A Western shirt was done in an Indian paisley, for example, and a turquoise silk shirt dress with black lace details. A country-sweet red eyelet shirt was paired with a black tux jacket and  short paisley dance skirt, and khaki duster coat with crystal and pearl embroidery over a gold floor length skirt.

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L.A.-based Jeremy Scott had a Western hoedown of a different sort, with men (and women) in cheeky backless chaps and Adidas "cowboy boot" high-top sneakers. The crowd was as wonderfully weird as the collection. One guy arrived on roller skates.

On the runway, a sunglasses-print cropped blouse topped fringed Daisy Dukes, and a metal mesh bandana was tied into a scarf top over a high-waist denim skirt.

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There were cow and cactus prints, dangling hearts and question marks, so many question marks. In other words, it was a darn good Jeremy Scott show.

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-- Booth Moore

Top photos: Looks from the Michael Kors spring 2012 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Frazer Harrison / Getty Images

Middle photos: Looks from the Donna Karan spring 2012 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Mike Coppola / Getty Images

Middle photos: Looks from the Thakoon spring 2012 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images; Karly Domb Sadof / Associated Press

Bottom photos: Looks from the Jeremy Scott spring 2012 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images

New York Fashion Week: At Thakoon, couture meets casual

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Raf Simons' collection for Jil Sander was the defining moment of the spring season. And the collection's Technicolor hues, and its juxtaposition of classic couture shapes and classic sportswear -- T-shirts with ball skirts, for example -- have been touchstones in New York this week, at Thakoon Panichgul's show and others.

Thakhair Panichgul offered both and sporty shapes, including bustle skirts, cape back dresses, cigarette pants and ruched anoraks, done in African batiks, tribal plaids, blanket stripes, quilted taffeta and felt.

The result was a delightful cacophony of color and print. Also loved the models hairstyles, with scraps of fabric and yarn braided and woven in. May have to try that one at home.

-- Booth Moore in New York

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Photos: Looks from the Thakoon fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

Your morning fashion and beauty report: Best and worst of ACM fashion. See the shoes Jessica Biel, others are wearing for spring. Plus, designer alternative bridal gowns

Jennifernettles What are stars wearing on their feet this spring? Jessica Biel, Sarah Jessica Parker and others show you. [People]

See the best (props to Reba McIntyre, Jennifer Nettles) and worst (Faith Hill, what were you thinking?) dresses at last night's American Country Music Awards.  [New York Post]

If you want to walk down the aisle in something a little different, see 20 takes on the bridal gown from Thakoon, Rachel Pally, Phillip Lim and others. [refinery29]

Sustainability roundup: Moxsie.com, Puma, Deckers. [wwd] 

Olympic snowboarder Shaun White gets into the shoe-design biz with Target. [wwd]

Melania Trump talks about her new jewelry line for QVC, The Donald and more. [StyleList] 

Strange Invisible Perfumes' new scent, Essence of IX, was created in collaboration with California's Colgin Cellars and may remind you of touring a wine cellar. In a good way, we mean. [BellaSugar]

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Jennifer Nettles and Kristian Bush of Sugarland. Credit: Kevork Djansezian / Getty Images

New York Fashion Week: Thakoon Panichgul makeup artist offers some alternatives


Thakoonfw2010 For his fall/winter 2010 runway show, Thakoon Panichgul complemented his fur-heavy collection with strong eyebrows and cheeks that glowed in a deep peachy hue.

Panichgul's inspiration, which were the costumes in Chopinot & Gaultier’s Le Défilé, led makeup artist Diane Kendall to create a look that she said highlighted the eyes showing depth and boldness in a way that wouldn’t compete with the heavy layers and textures of the clothing.

Anyone who’s a fan of these Nars colors will have to wait until next fall to get them. Kendall used mostly shades that aren’t hitting stores until the end of August, but she provided some alternatives to tide fans over until then.

FACE
• Douceur Blush (new for fall 2010); try Lovejoy or Madly Blush for a similar effect.

EYES
• Coconut Grove Single eye shadow (new for fall 2010); try Bali Single eye shadow.
• Tzarine Duo eye shadow (new for fall 2010); try the Orgasm Illuminator on brow bones.

LIPS
• Tashkent Pure Matte Lipstick (new for fall 2010); try Belle de Jour Velvet Matte Lip Pencil.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos: Thakoon Panichgul's fall 2010 runway

PHOTOS: Celeb sightings at fall 2010 New York Fashion Week

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Photos: Two looks from Thakoon Panichgul's fall/winter 2010 collection. Credit: Nars

New York Fashion Week: Zac Posen, Thakoon tire out while Peter Som gets his second wind

Thakoon-zac-posen-peter-som
With lackluster collections from Jason Wu, Thakoon Panichgul and Zac Posen, I was beginning to worry that New York Fashion Week was experiencing a young designer burnout.

It's easy to see how it could happen, with the pressure to make headlines and reinvent season after season -- and now in the pre-seasons, too.

But not every designer has the boundless imagination to be an Alexander McQueen. (It's possible even McQueen was having trouble keeping up, and that it led to his death.) And not every designer should try.
Continue reading »

The most striking beauty looks from the New York Spring 2010 runways


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From edgy to ethereal, these hair and makeup looks from New York’s Spring 2010 runways shows were some of the most inspiring or wearable.

Rodarte’s dark and webby dresses called for a hairstyle that was just as intricate.  This may not be one to try at home, but the style was full of texture and looked almost sculpted.

Hair stylist Odile Gilbert created something daring enough to rival the Rodarte sister’s futuristic creations.

Keep reading to find out how she got the look:
Continue reading »

New York Fashion Week: Thakoon adds some sporty spice to his girly trademarks

Thakoon jacket For spring, Thakoon Panichgul, whose floral print dresses are favorites of the first lady, injected some sportiness into his girlish look with mixed results.

The focus was on a new, more body-conscious silhouette. SCUBA-inspired dresses with draped, Fortuny-pleated floral and lava-print silk, combined with techno twill color-blocking, felt overly tricky. Same thing goes for shifts with armor-like front panels of silk jacquard (a bit sandwich board-like), and silk T-shirts and ninja pants that mixed a riot of prints to dizzying effect.

The best pieces were jackets -- one molded to the body in a cyberfloral and techno twill mix, and another in black twill covered in waves of silver chains.

Still, I left wanting more.

-- Booth Moore

Pictures: Thakoon's spring / summer 2010 runway

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Photo: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson  / For The Times

Fashion Diary: Simon Fuller plotting fashion domination

Gossip, first impressions, trends in the making, celebrities and style setters. A regular feature by fashion critic Booth Moore.

Fuller_rage "American Idol" creator Simon Fuller is partnering with Net-a-porter vet Sojin Lee on a new online fashion venture called Fashionair launching in September. And if anyone can take the fashion experience to the next level on the Web, it's these two.

"I want to be a pioneer in the way content and retail can co-exist on the internet," Fuller wrote to me in an e-mail. "Television will no doubt have a part to play in Fashionair’s expansion, but for now we are focused on the web."

The site will be a hybrid of entertainment and e-commerce, featuring video programming taped around the world and edited at Fuller's 19 Entertainment Ltd. studios in London. Like "American Idol" -- and unlike most glossy magazines -- the site aims to be inclusive. "We are going at this from a consumer perspective," Lee said by phone from London. "We want to tell stories and have solutions for fashion dilemmas."

Don't expect an intimidating, perfectly coiffed editor-in-chief dictating trends and annointing new designers. At Fashionair, the users will be the voice. "We are living in the YouTube generation," Lee said. "Every individual has been given a means of expression, and you get inspiration from your neighbor, from someone living in Hong Kong, from so many places."

Fashionair is more about discovering style than discovering fashion.

Continue reading »

Fashion Diary: L.A. wins at the CFDA

Rodarte sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy Gossip, first impressions, trends in the making, celebrities and style setters. A regular feature by fashion critic Booth Moore.
 
NEW YORK -- It was a big night for Los Angeles at the Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards, the apparel industry equivalent to the Oscars held at Lincoln Center's Alice Tully Hall on Monday. Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who started making dresses in their parents' guest house in Pasadena just four years ago, took the womenswear designer of the year award.
 
Not since James Galanos won the lifetime achievement award in 1984 has a Left Coast label made such an impact on the Seventh Avenue-centric CFDA, a non-profit trade organization that supports American designers. Unlike Galanos, whose beaded confections were all Nancy Reagan perfection, the Mulleavys' horror-film-meets-haute-couture aesthetic reflects the dichotomy of the California dream with blood red-streaked and graffitied chiffon gowns, shredded leather leggings and bike jackets and spike-covered stilettos.
 
The self-taught sisters have earned a loyal following in Hollywood with celebs such as Kirsten Dunst, who led the designers' cheering section Monday night. Also in the visiting-from-California contingent: Decades' Cameron Silver, Toms Shoes' Blake Mycoskie and Trovata's John Whitledge.
 
Continue reading »

Michelle Obama gets all dolled up in newest 'flatwear' collection

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The folks who gave us the presidential candidate paper dolls last year released a new book last month titledRage_obama_Narciso "President Barack Obama and His Family Paper Dolls: The Inaugural Edition." And while he may be the commander in chief on paper, the star of these pages is Michelle Obama (and to a lesser extent Sasha and Malia, who were given scant attention in the earlier book).

Among the six outfits included (the girls share four looks, the president himself has six, most of which are variations on his Hart Schaffner Marx suits) are the J. Crew cardigan, Italian Deco tank top and sheath skirt outfit Mrs. O was wearing on her Oct. 27, 2008, appearance on "The Tonight Show," the black-on-red Thakoon number she wore to the Democratic National Convention acceptance speech, her Jason Wu-designed silk chiffon inaugural ball gown, and the sunshine-yellow, custom-made Isabel Toledo dress and Jimmy Choo shoes she wore to the inauguration.

But our favorite is "Plate 8": the red-and-black satin Narciso Rodriguez dress and Loree Rodkin diamond bangle bracelets and earrings she was wearing on election night in Chicago. 

And maybe it's  just us, but Mrs. Obama looks pretty good on paper.

-- Adam Tschorn

"President Barack Obama and His Family Paper Dolls: The Inaugural Edition," by Tom Tierney (Dover Publications April, 2009).

Photos: The Obama family in Chicago's Grant Park on November 4, 2008. Credit: Joe Raedle / Getty Images. At right, the paper doll version of Michelle Obama's outfit from the same night as depicted in "President Barack Obama Paper Dolls."

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