A fix-it if you've ripped it: Self Edge offers denim repair

The last thing any denim lover wants to hear is the sickening sound of a rip in a favorite pair of jeans. Whether it's the ever-popular crotch blowout or merely a ripped knee, there's a fix for that rip at Self Edge, a seller of premium, primarily Japanese denim that's launching a new repair service at its La Brea location Friday.

"You can take a pair of jeans to 10 different people and it would be repaired 10 different ways," said Self Edge founder, Kiya Babzani, whose own style of repair uses vintage sewing, darning and riveting machines and a combination of techniques to make fixes that match his denim aesthetic.

The service is an extension of the Self Edge product line and philosophy, which marries vintage American casual wear with premium Japanese craftsmanship and purpose-derived, garment-specific materials. Self Edge sells jeans, shirts and jackets from brands such as Real Japan Blues and Dry Bones for $300 to $400.

"We want to make sure that if your jeans are aging in a certain way that the repair services done to your jeans compliment that style of aging," Babzani said. "We have this obsession with the patina of everything."

In the two years the L.A. Self Edge has been open, the store has offered hemming, which is done with a decades-old Union Special chain stitching machine. The new repair service is offered for a flat fee: $20 for customers who purchased the jeans from Self Edge and $40 if not.

"I believe in full service retail like it was 50 years ago when you went to a kitchen store and bought housewares and there was someone there to sharpen your knives and replace the blades in your food processor," said Babzani, who started Self Edge in San Francisco in 2006, expanded to New York in 2009 and launched in L.A. one year later.

"We just felt it was sad to be sending our customers to tailors to get their jeans repaired," said Babzani, who began offering his fix-it four years ago at the San Francisco store. Now its tailors regularly come into contact with jeans whose wearers have blown out the backsides or stuffed a wallet into a pocket so many times it's started to form a hole.

"Denim repair is interesting. No other article of clothing we wear gets this destroyed," Babzani said, "but you see these jeans that have been brought into our stores. It looks like they've been worn every single day for two years."

ALSO:

Falcon Motorcycles unveils its Black

The James Dean "Giant" coat, revived

Selvage jeans aren't just for denim snobs

-- Susan Carpenter

Photos, from top: Tailor Andrew Chen repairs ripped jeans at Self Edge New York; Self Edge L.A.; Union Special sewing machine. Credit: Self Edge

Remyxx kicks around new idea: 100% recyclable sneakers

Millions of shoes are trashed in the U.S. each year. That's a lot of Nikes and Converse that are languishing in landfills, never to be seen again. But a new shoe company hopes to change that. Remyxx, in Charlotte, N.C., announced Monday that it would go into production with a 100% recyclable sneaker made from a blend of plastic, polyresin fabric and rubber.

Remyxx was featured on the season finale of the hit ABC TV show "Shark Tank" in May, after which Remyxx founder Gary Gagnon was tasked with proving consumer interest in the concept through the online fundraising site Kickstarter.com. On Monday, Remyxx reached its $40,000 fundraising goal, preselling more than 450 pairs of shoes, which will now go into production. Five styles will be manufactured in sizes ranging from a youth 4 to a men's 12. Deliveries are expected in October.

"I'm your everyday consumer who lives in the suburbs, but I've always been a diligent recycler," said Gagnon, who was inspired to create the shoes in 2009, when he noticed his kids' beaten-up sneakers piled near the trash can. "I thought, 'Wouldn't it be nice to recycle sneakers?' "

It would, indeed. While some shoe companies use recycled content in their products, most shoes still end up in landfills due to their use of mixed materials. And while Nike's Reuse-A-Shoe program has recycled an astounding 25 million pairs of athletic shoes into things like running tracks since 1990, it's still just a drop in the bucket.

Gagnon, 43, had never worked in fashion or had ever thought to go into the footwear business, but he set to work on discovering whether a 100% recyclable shoe was possible. He hired a chemist and consulted with various recycling entities. He investigated what makes most shoes nonrecyclable and learned that some sneakers contain more than 100 different materials.

Gagnon says Remyxx shoes are constructed from a mix of polyresin materials. The top part looks like canvas, the sole like rubber. The entire thing is classified as, and labeled with, the No. 5 recycling symbol and can be recycled curbside in many cities that accept No. 5 plastics -- presuming the recycling agencies recognize the shoes as recyclable.

"It's still a sneaker to the collection agency," acknowledged Gagnon, who advocates "true and honest recyclability." To reduce the likelihood of Remyxx shoes being thrown in the recycling bin but still winding up in a landfilll, Remyxx plans to run a take-back program called Reduce, Reuse, Remyxx. Consumers who mail their used sneakers back to the company will get a $5 credit toward another pair, Gagnon said. While Remyxx shoes will be made in China, they'll be recycled in the U.S., he added.

As for the involvement of "Shark Tank" advisor, Daymond John, Gagnon said he was offered $50,000 for an 80% stake in the company on the show -- a deal Gagnon took but hasn't played out. John does not own a majority stake in Remyxx but is, instead, consulting with Gagnon.

RELATED:

Yes, even clothes can be recycled

Lost sunglasses? Dizm's will biodegrade

Fashion reboot: An eco-friendly wardrobe makeover

Can I Recycle: The series

-- Susan Carpenter

Photos: Remyxx 100% recyclable sneakers; No. 5 plastic recycling symbol. Credit: Remyxx

The James Dean 'Giant' coat, revived

We've all been there: Watching a classic film, drooling over the clothes and wishing we could figure out where to buy them. Classic clothier Bench & Loom is now making that dream come true for one very specific item: The Jett Rink ranch coat worn by James Dean in the 1956 film "Giant."

Last fall, the website invited visitors to vote on which classic clothing item they'd like revived  from the Oscar-winning film co-starring Rock Hudson and Elizabeth Taylor. The Phoenix Project, as it's called, gave visitors three options: A denim jacket worn by a cowboy, a field jacket worn by director George Stevens and the shearling-trimmed ranch coat worn by Dean, which was the overwhelming winner.

"Guys I know don't talk about their clothes that often. When we do, it's when we're watching an old movie and see something cool," said Jared Zaugg, who co-founded Bench & Loom last fall with his wife, Brooke. "We thought there was something to that: Being able to find something on somebody you admire that has style."

To re-create the coat, the Zauggs borrowed a similar coat from a Phoenix Project voter who had saved a jacket from the same defunct manufacturer. They also worked with Japanese designer Atsu Tagaya and the Japanese manufacturer Stevenson Overall Company to make subtle improvements that added to the coat's wearability without detracting from its overall character.

.Instead of the itchy wool collar of the original, the coat is trimmed in alpaca shearling at the neckline. The silhouette was narrowed to make it less boxy, and the sleeves were lined with man-made silk Cupra to make it easier to slide arms in and out. The exterior of the double-breasted coat is twill and features looped button closures, two large front flap pockets and two chest slit pockets.

"Practicality is important. We don't just want to create costume," said Zaugg, adding that it was equally important to work with a reputable, longstanding manufacturer that pays extraordinary attention to detail, like the rest of the heritage jackets, bags, boots and accessories sold through Bench & Loom.

Priced at $648, the Bench & Loom Jett Rink ranch coat is the first custom-made item for Bench & Loom and will be manufactured in a single run of 30. The site started taking non-refundable, $480 deposits for the jacket Friday and will fill orders on a first come, first served basis until Aug. 31. Coats are expected to ship in October.

The Zauggs are mum about the next lost classic they plan to revive through the Phoenix Project, but Zaugg said: "I'm vying for the jacket in 'On the Waterfront' with Brando."

RELATED:

Bench & Loom trades in classic masculinity

Falcon Motorcycles reveals its Black

Getting revved up over vintage bikes at the Quail Motorcycle Gathering

-- Susan Carpenter

Photos: James Dean in "Giant"; Bench & Loom's Jett Rink Ranch coat; Marlon Brando in "On the Waterfront." Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures; Bench & Loom; EPA.

Sunscreens that multitask as much as we do

Each summer, the shelves at my local drugstore practically groan from all the sunscreen. Every year, there seem to be more SPF lotions and sprays, more SPF face powders and lip balms.

I've tried so many different formulas and brands over the years, and been disappointed so many times, that my expectations were fairly low when my editor handed me a bag of new sunscreens asking me to test them and write up a story.

As a former tanning salon junkie, recent basal cell skin cancer diagnosee and all-around pasty white girl, I was particularly intrigued by the broad-spectrum sunscreen and self-tanner from Supergoop!

The box promised to give me a golden glow and to protect me from the sun without the paraben, oxybenzone and other nasties or leaving residue on my clothes or towels -- all of which sounded too good to be true.

But I've used it. I love it. And I will be buying more throughout the summer. The tan looks natural and it didn't rub off on or destroy my clothes.

Read more about multitasking sunscreens in this Sunday's Image.

RELATED:

FDA delays implementing new sunscreen rules

Is natural sunscreen better for you?

New guide ranks safe, effective sunscreens for 2012

-- Susan Carpenter

Photo: Supergoop! SPF 20 self-tanning sunscreen mousse. Credit: Supergoop!

Lost sunglasses? Dizm's will biodegrade

Most SoCal lifeguards who rush into the water for a rescue end up losing their sunglasses in the water -- inadvertently adding to the Pacific Trash Vortex. But Dizm Eyewear is hoping to change that with its new eco-collection of biodegradable sunglasses.

"The concept is that if you lose your sunglasses in the water, they'll turn into fish food once they're decomposed. If you lose them in the forest, in five or 10 years, they'd turn into biomass and be completely gone," said Jonas Lee, general manager of Dizm Eyewear in Hermosa Beach.

A sunglass line designed to bridge the gap between action sports and fashion, Dizm makes about 70 styles, 18 of which have biodegradable frames. Dizm is still working on a biodegradable solution for its polycarbonate lenses, which present a challenge because of the need for optical clarity. Before the end of the year, Dizm hopes to switch all of its frames to plastics made from wood, cotton and palm oil.

"Our entire team is working to develop the best processes for recycling and repurposing glasses as well as to take good care of our playground," said Dizm founder Linda Larson, who recently sponsored a beach cleanup at the American Pro Surfing Series contest in Huntington Beach and is currently developing a collection program for its glasses to either rework and donate them to people in need or to dispose of them more ecologically than the landfill.

If composted with a backyard system, the biodegradable sunglass frames will break down over the course of several seasons, Larson said.

RELATED:

Getting an eco-friendly wardrobe makeover

Coming soon to baby's bottom: 100% compostable diapers

Celebrities opting for lightly tinted, custom-made sunglasses

-- Susan Carpenter

Photo: Dizm Eyewear eco-collection sunglasses. Credit: Dizm Eyewear.

Sandast opens flagship in downtown L.A.

Ah, leather. The look. The scent. The feel. Few materials are as sensual.

Not only does L.A. bagmaker Sandast bring out leather's best attributes in its handcrafted bags and luggage, it's inviting Angelenos into the experience with a new flagship store adjacent to its workshop in downtown L.A.

"Since the factory is so big, we needed a showroom," said Milan Franeta, founder and creative director of Sandast. And once Franeta decided to open a showroom, he decided to share it with friends who share his affection for artisanal fashion with a vintage twist.

Located in a former automotive garage, the enormous 4,000-square-foot space is a tribute to American heritage as much as it is a store. In addition to Franeta's bags, the flagship carries dozens of brands whose styles compliment a Sandast aesthetic that marries elegance and ruggedness. There are cubbies of handmade Gilded Age jeans from New York and AG Jeans from L.A. Tables of Johnson Motors T-shirts yield to displays of Dita sunglasses and H by Hudson shoes.

"This is a lifestyle store. We're not just going to sell shoes and bags and clothing. We're going to have music, books, some organic food, olive oil, honey, coffee. A little bit of everything," said Franeta, a native of Montenegro and artist who made or found most of the furniture in the new shop and says he's "addicted to finding new ways to make bags that are different."

Most of the leather Franeta works with is from tanneries in Kansas, Illinois and Texas that use  vegetable dyes that yield five different shades of brown, tan, rust, grey and black. Some of the hardware is sourced from Italy. Others are custom-made and distressed to compliment Franeta's "massaged" and polished leathers. His bags retail for $250 to $2,000. Clothes are priced from about $50 to $200.

Franeta's style was born from a childhood spent watching American westerns when he "fell in love with all the colors of western style, the boots, the saddles, the jeans." After moving to the U.S. in 1987, he began collecting vintage Levi's and antiques, some of which are used as decor for the store.

He started Sandast in 2006 with a collection of handmade belts that he private labeled for Gilded Age, and partnered with retail veteran Chris Pak in 2010 to extend the brand that was primarily sold in Europe, Mexico and a handful of U.S. specialty stores. Franeta has so far designed more than 100 bags. The 40 or so that are displayed for sale in the new store represent his best work.

"I'm not a designer designer that puts everything on paper," Franeta said. "I'm more of a creator. Mine is a style I create in my head and I go in the factory and make it."

Shoppers who want to see exactly how can do so at the new South Hill Street shop. There's a window that looks into Franeta's workspace from the store.

RELATED:

Shopping: High Low Vintage opens in Pasadena

Bench & Loom trades in classic masculinity

South La Brea menswear stores tap into American heritage

American heritage brands make a comeback

-- Susan Carpenter

Photos: Sandast models and bags; Sandast store displays. Credit: Sandast.

New guide ranks safe, effective sunscreens for 2012

The best sun protection is a broad-brimmed hat and clothing, but it's the rare Angeleno who wants to wear long sleeves and pants in the heat of summer. Most of us use sunscreen, but what are the safest and most effective products?

According to the 2012 Sunscreen Guide released Wednesday by the nonprofit Environmental Working Group, just 25% of sunscreens are effective and safe to use. That's an improvement from the group's 2011 guide, which recommended just 20% of sunscreens.

The Environmental Working Group, in Washington, D.C., analyzed the ingredient lists of more than 800 beach and sport sunscreens. The sunscreens that made the cut do not use the vitamin A ingredient retinyl palmitate, which may heighten skin cancer risk when applied to sun-exposed skin. Nor do they use oxybenzone, a chemical that is known to disrupt hormones.

Many of the recommended products use mineral ingredients, including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and are spread on the body in lotions rather than sprays or powders which, the group says, pose inhalation risks.

Sunscreens with SPF ratings of 50 and above were also given poor ratings since "high-SPF users are exposed to as many or more ultraviolet rays as those who use lower-SPF products, probably because consumers get a false sense of security from those big numbers. They wait too long before reapplying sunscreen and stay out too long," the report said.

The sunscreen guide found that 14% of the beach and sport sunscreens it analyzed claimed SPFs greater than 50. Seven percent did not contain ingredients known to protect against the UVA rays that cause wrinkles and skin damage.

Moisturizers, makeups and lip balms fared particularly poorly for their lack of UVA protection and inclusion of retinyl palmitate. The 2012 guide recommends nine percent of lip balms, seven percent of makeups and nine percent of daily moisturizers with built-in SPF.

On the positive side, the guide reports that 63% of children's sunscreens contain effective mineral ingredients, compared with 40% of other sunscreens.

Still, "sunscreens or moisturizers or makeups with SPF is only part of a full sun-protection routine," said Nneka Leiba, senior research analyst with the Environmental Working Group. "It's also extremely important to wear protective clothing, to wear UV-blocking sunglasses and to avoid the mid-day sun. All these things together offer the best sun protection."

The searchable 2012 database lists sunscreens by brand and type, and can be screened for specific ingredients. Recommended products are listed in green and also include pricing information.

RELATED:

FDA delays implementing sunscreen rules

Clothing with UV protection built in

SPF inflation in the sunscreen aisle

Natural Sunscreen: Is it better for you?

-- Susan Carpenter

Top photo: Sun bathers in Miami Beach, Fla. Credit: J. Pat Carter / Associated Press

Lower photo credit:  Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times

FDA delays implementing sunscreen rules

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration announced Friday that it will delay the implementation of new sunscreen rules that had been scheduled to take effect in June. The rules are designed to give consumers better information about the effectiveness of over-the-counter sunscreens and will, for the first time, allow the bottles, tubes and sprays to say that sunscreens protect against skin cancer and early skin aging. The FDA says the rules will take effect in mid-December to allow the manufacturers of affected products to fully implement them.

The new rules, announced last June, are the result of more than 30 years of deliberation. The FDA had been considering new regulations since 1978 and released some proposals in 2007, but it subsequently concluded that the labeling system under consideration would cause too much consumer confusion.

The new rules going into effect Dec. 17 for large companies, and one year later for smaller manufacturers, ban claims such as "sweat-proof" and "waterproof" and prevent manufacturers from labeling products with unsubstantiated claims of instant or all-day protection.

"FDA just gave consumers 1,800 more reasons to turn to our sunscreen database," said Sonya Lunder, senior analyst with the Environmental Working Group, which publishes an annual database focusing on the safety and efficacy of sunscreens. Its 2012 report will be issued Wednesday (May 16).

"We are baffled that FDA deems it necessary to delay such weak regulations," Lunder said in a statement released Friday. "The agency has caved to industry pressure every step of the way."

RELATED:

Is natural sunscreen better for you?

SPF inflation in the sunscreen aisle

2011 Sunscreen Guide names most effective sunscreens

-- Susan Carpenter

Photo credit: Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times

 

Christian Louboutin to launch beauty line in 2013

French shoemaker Christian Louboutin is stepping up to beauty with a new cosmetic line launching next year. According to the Times' Tiffany Hsu:

"Louboutin red isn’t just for the soles of sky-high stillettos anymore... His luxury French company is pairing with Batallure Beauty, which helps develop brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Macy’s, Marchesa and Sephora, to launch the Christian Louboutin Beaute line in late 2013. Sephora, a cosmetics and fragrance retailer, happens to stock perfumes from another well-known shoe titan: Jimmy Choo."

Read Hsu's full story on Christian Louboutin Beaute.

RELATED:

Christian Louboutin's 20th anniversary collection is inspired

The Shot: Louboutin photo gallery

Christian Louboutin to launch beauty line

-- Susan Carpenter

Photo: A pair of Louboutins on display at the Design Museum London. Credit: Associated Press / Jonathan Short.

 

 

Pledge to reboot your wardrobe on Earth Day

It's Earth Day, which means you might be planting a tree, promising to start composting or breaking your disposable water bottle habit.

Writer Susan Carpenter has been doing those kinds of things and more for quite awhile now. She even threw an environmentally friendly birthday party for her 9-year-old son awhile back.

So when she recently decided she needed a wardrobe update, she stuck to her principles. But where to start? She called in a fashion consultant to help her find recycled, thrifted and "upcycled" (refurbished) clothing that's actually stylish. That's one of the outfits she put together, pictured here. She wrote about the experience for this Sunday's Image section.

Besides changing your clothing shopping habits, you  might consider checking out natural beauty products in honor of Earth Day, as writer Janet Kinosian did. She profiles several brands that rely on flowers, herbs, fruits or honey. And consider ditching the liquid shampoo. Shampoo in the form of a bar soap might be kinder to the environment -- and to your hair, too.

RELATED:

Shopping: Gilt Groupe warehouse sale coming to L.A.

Ralph Lauren unveils U.S. Olympic team closing ceremony garb

Between Coachellas, Snoop Dogg livens up the Levi's Haus

--Susan Denley

Photo: One of Susan Carpenter's environmentally friendly outfits. Credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times