From the beginning of his tenure at Rochas, now in its fifth season, designer Marco Zanini has been in touch with the kind of quirky chic that's emerging as a theme for fall. For this collection, he channeled that spirit into a love story between masculine and feminine on the runway, while giving each piece an unexpected twist.
A ladylike navy blue brocade shift came pre-wrinkled, and a deep blue blazer buttoned off-kilter.
Satin print pants and intarsia sweaters had that pretty-ugly look we all know so well from Prada. And for evening, short satin dresses had ruched bra-bodices that, left unfilled, were a throwback to a less surgically enhanced time. Gowns also had a retro modesty, one in peach satin with a watteau back.
Nearly all of the looks were finished off with an astrakhan karakul cap, which may be the most novel use of fur yet in a very furry runway season. And somehow, the caps looked right in that oddball way that is starting to make sense now that fashion, however incongruous it may sound, is trying to harness individual style.
-- Booth Moore in Paris
Photos: Looks from the Rochas fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during Paris Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.