New York Fashion Week review: Ralph Lauren does Depression chic

Do women really want Depression chic? Ralph Lauren thinks so.

His spring collection was inspired by "the resilient spirit of America," and "the character of the worker, the farmer, the cowboy, the pioneer woman of the prairies living authentically through challenging times," as stated in his show notes. "Hard times sharpen our capacity for idealism and our optimism that tomorrow will be a better day."

What Lauren knows about hard times probably amounts to seeing his net worth fall from $4.2 billion to $4.1 billion or something like that, and the authenticity of work wear -- jeans, overalls and prairie floral dresses -- must seem quaint to someone who doesn't have to wear it. The theme is a special kind of minefield because this recession has been about workers bailing out fat cats who made bad investing decisions. So it's not as if we all just have to buckle down and things will get better. There are plenty of people buckling down and still being fired.

That being said, remember Lauren's roots: His is the ultimate rags-to-riches story. And though he may rule over a fashion empire now, at heart he's still that insecure Bronx boy named Lifshitz who got his start hawking neckties.

When it comes to showcasing brands, will polo be the new runway?

 Sunday afternoon, watching men on horseback whack a ball back and forth across a field at the Santa Barbara Polo & Racquet Club, I thought I'd escaped the clutches of the fashion world for a few hours.

Until I realized that one of the teams on the field was sponsored by the Lucchese Boot Co., (the winning team, it turned out), and that the team's white trousers were emblazoned with the name Michael Kors along the thigh. This came on the heels of a New York Times piece waxing on about Argentinean polo player Ignacio "Nacho" Figueras, who pals around with the likes of Prince Harry and David Lauren (son of Ralph) when he's not trying to popularize the sport of polo or posing for Ralph Lauren advertisements.

Ralph Lauren polo shirts look good, do good

Summer Fridays are a Manhattan tradition, allowing office workers to close up shop early and head out to weekend shares in the Hamptons, Shelter Island or upstate New York. That's the breezy, "school's out" feel that the new limited-edition Ralph Lauren polo tries to conjure in a look-good/do-good line to raise money for breast cancer awareness.

The $55 cropped shirts, available at www.net-a-porter.com until Sept. 25, come in summer shades such as white, green and yellow, plus turquoise and red, and they're sized extra-small  through extra-large. The net proceeds go to Susan G. Komen for the Cure and other organizations supported by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and its Fashion Targets Breast Cancer initiative.

"Think casual Friday," says Steven Kolb, CFDA executive director. "The colors are bright and cheerful, and the polos will look great with summer khaki, denim or anything white."

The shirts get a graphic pop from the logo of Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, the organization Lauren created 15 years ago to honor his friend Nina Hyde, fashion editor for the Washington Post, who died of the disease in 1990. The foundation has raised more than $40 million for breast cancer research, education, screening and patient care, and Net-a-Porter shoppers can donate $5 with any purchase by selecting the option on the site's order confirmation page.

"Everyone has been impacted by breast cancer," Kolb says, "and it will be a strong statement of support when you see those numbers add up as represented by women wearing the polos."

www.fashiontargetsbreastcancer.org

-- Max Padilla

More sales and specials

Follow the Image section on Twitter


Photo: Ralph Lauren polo. Credit: FTBC / CFDA

Fashion Diary: L.A. wins at the CFDA

Gossip, first impressions, trends in the making, celebrities and style setters. A regular feature by fashion critic Booth Moore.

 

NEW YORK -- It was a big night for Los Angeles at the Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards, the apparel industry equivalent to the Oscars held at Lincoln Center's Alice Tully Hall on Monday. Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who started making dresses in their parents' guest house in Pasadena just four years ago, took the womenswear designer of the year award.

 

Not since James Galanos won the lifetime achievement award in 1984 has a Left Coast label made such an impact on the Seventh Avenue-centric CFDA, a non-profit trade organization that supports American designers. Unlike Galanos, whose beaded confections were all Nancy Reagan perfection, the Mulleavys' horror-film-meets-haute-couture aesthetic reflects the dichotomy of the California dream with blood red-streaked and graffitied chiffon gowns, shredded leather leggings and bike jackets and spike-covered stilettos.

 

The self-taught sisters have earned a loyal following in Hollywood with celebs such as Kirsten Dunst, who led the designers' cheering section Monday night. Also in the visiting-from-California contingent: Decades' Cameron Silver, Toms Shoes' Blake Mycoskie and Trovata's John Whitledge.

 

NYFW review: Ralph Lauren's fall 2009 collection

NEW YORK -- It is somehow comforting that, though the economy is melting down, Ralph Lauren's rarefied world is still perfectly intact.

The king of fine living, Lauren showed a collection that conjured images of a weekend at a country estate --horseback riding by day in suede jodhpurs, a Fair Isle sweater, tweed jacket and cozy patchwork coat; candlelit dinners by night in a gray wool evening suit with jeweled buttons; or a sinuous white silk gown with an embroidered white shearling coat thrown over the shoulders.

There's nothing quite so luxurious as wearing white during the winter, and being in the circumstances where you don't have to worry about messing it up. Who wouldn't want to escape there for a little while? Besides, Lauren's business stands on fantasy and the idea that his fantasy is insulated from cold, harsh reality.

He also took the opportunity to showcase his new collection of timepieces with "stirrup" shaped faces encrusted in pave diamonds, displayed prominently on models' wrists, and described along with the outfits in the show notes.

Because in fashion, you can't just sell the dream, you also gotta move the merch.

-- Booth Moore

RELATED:

Get Fashion Week updates: Follow Booth on Twitter

Photos: Behind the scenes at Fall 2009 New York Fashion Week

More New York Fashion Week coverage

Photo credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

In the luxury retail squeeze, it's Robertson vs. Rodeo

People might not be shopping, but new stores keep opening -- on Robertson Boulevard at least. Last night, a new D&G flagship opened with a party to benefit local charity Art of Elysium. And the starlets turned out in their LBDs -- by D&G, of course.

Ginnifer Goodwin looked incredibly chic (she always does) in a black D&G chiffon top and tulip skirt, with beads that matched her pumps. And Amy Smart managed to make a black bra top and D&G blouson dress look sweet.

Lauren Conrad, Paris and Nicky Hilton were also there, sipping vodka and (not) nibbling mini burgers and fries, which have replaced the ahi cones and tenderloin wrapped asparagus we used to (not) nibble before the recession.

You can't help but notice how different Robertson’s retail row is looking these days. I counted five Kitson storefronts on the blocks between Beverly and Third. But the high-end is starting to inch out the paparazzi-friendly. Ralph Lauren’s new Robertson digs are beautiful, more beautiful in my opinion than the Rodeo Drive store. The Chanel space is pretty special too, the way it opens to the sidewalk.

The D&G space looks like a boudoir — dark and mirrored with black carpeting — as most of the Italian design house’s stores do. On the racks, there are lots of leopard print ruffled blouses and tight cocktail dresses with ruched bodices from the spring collection of D&G, Dolce & Gabbana's less expensive little sister.

A D&G publicist believes Robertson is poised to do well in the downturn because it's a less conspicuous place to consume than the luxury sinkhole Rodeo Drive ("luxury sinkhole" being my words), where nobody wants to be caught dead with an armload of shopping bags.

That's one way to spin it I guess.

-- Booth Moore

Top photo: Actress Ginnifer Goodwin in D&G. Credit: J. Strauss / Wireimage

Bottom photo: Actress Amy Smart in D&G. Credit: J. Strauss / Wireimage

One-piece wonder

What is it about a jumpsuit that’s just so darn cute?

Are they a reminder of those cute footy pajamas we wore as kids? Or are they just more stylish and less predictable than the standard T-shirt and jeans, blouse and skirt combos?

Whatever the motivation, many designers were inspired to do jumpsuits for spring. Proenza Schouler sent down all-white jumpsuits with hard lines and leather bondage-style straps that crossed on the back. Phillip Lim took a softer route and did one in a smoky blue with a gentle tie waist.  The most classic styles were in Ralph Lauren-structured black with strong shoulders and blazer lapels and a creamy ivory satin suit that looked as lithe and luxurious as any of his gorgeous evening gowns.

But the surprise came from Tadashi, a designer generally known for doing evening dresses and bridal party ensembles. He sent out royal blue short-alls (like a jumpsuit, but with short pants) with a ruffled halter neck. It was a one-piece little number that was not only totally unexpected from him, but it actually looked good.

We won’t be surprised to see bridesmaids in matching jumpsuits and short-alls next summer.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos top to bottom: Ralph Lauren, Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler. Photo credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times