Musings on the culture of keeping up appearances

All the Rage

Category: Rag & Bone

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Rag & Bone menswear

 Rag & Bone's fall 2012 menswear collection has the same "English countryside-meets-the-Raj" aesthetic as the women's wear offerings do -- plus a good dose of military influence

Rag & Bone's fall and winter 2012 menswear may have been sent down a runway of its own, but there's no denying its inspiration was in step with that of the women's collection, which Times' fashion critic Booth Moore described as "English-countryside meets-the-Raj" in a recent post.

That vibe was grafted onto the subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) military influences that designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville favor for the brand's menswear. The result was a runway collection of bundled-up and brooding military officers, ready to wage all-out war on the incoming cold front.

That meant blanket-heavy multi-striped great coats and sweaters, waxed cotton peacoats and herringbone topcoats with leather collars, an ikat pattern that appeared in blue or black in skinny chinos and blazers, and billowy, drop-crotch "singh" trousers.

The color palette was grounded in blacks, grays and an assortment of military blues, with the occasional piece in a burgundy wine shade, with accent colors of red appearing in blanket stripes and jacket linings, and, in a couple of pieces including a waistcoat, blazer and pair of chinos, with a subtle but eye-catching black-and-red degradé effect.

Rag & Bone's fall 2012 menswear collection has the same "English countryside-meets-the-Raj" aesthetic as the women's wear offerings do -- plus a good dose of military influence


New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Rag & Bone

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Alexander Wang

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Band of Outsiders

-- Adam Tschorn in New York

Photos: Looks from the Rag & Bone menswear runway collection, shown on Feb. 10 during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Rag & Bone


Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are proving to be a formidable force on the New York fashion scene. Their fall collection was English countryside-meets-the-Raj, with layers upon layers of rich-looking pieces with must-touch textures, plus all the must-have accessories (those herringbone platform riding boots! That sculptural leather collar piece!) that keep fans coming back to the brand.

There were striped blanket coats worn over schoolboy blazers and jodhpurs fastened with trooper belts; shearling vests over tweed wrap skirts and chunky legwarmers, herringbone sweater dresses shot through with copper Lurex thread, and genius-looking black crochet lace "doti" pants and sweaters to layer even more. 


Rag & Bone is definitely on an upward trajectory. In an partnership that speaks to the cool factor of their brand, AT&T and Samsung Mobile sponsored the men's and women's runway shows, and tapped Wainwright and Neville to help launch the new Samsung Galaxy Note smartphone* hitting stores Feb. 19. 
Models weren't carrying the tablets down the runway or anything like that, but the Rag & Bone designers did create a special case for the device, and they will co-host a party at New York Fashion Week on Tuesday for the launch.  

Rag & Bone started as a denim line in 2002, and has since expanded to include men's and women's wear and accessories in the contemporary fashion category, with most items priced less than $1,500. Rag & Bone has boutiques in New York and Washington, D.C. Hopefully, the next stop will be L.A.!

*UPDATED 02/11/2012 at 9:49 p.m. In an earlier version of this post, we referred to the Samsung Galaxy Note as a tablet. It is actually a smartphone with tablet capabilities.


New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Jason Wu

New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Rag & Bone

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Juan Carlos Obando

-- Booth Moore

Photos: Looks from the Rag & Bone women's runway collection shown Thursday during New York Fashion Week: Credit: Andrew Burton / Associated Press

Emmys 2011: The men mix it up -- designer-wise

Emmys 2011 Menswear
Although the men hitting the red carpet Sunday seemed to hew a lot closer to the traditional formal wear look than they did at last year's Emmys (save a few holdouts -- most notably Seal who not only showed up without a necktie of any sort, but apparently also left most of his shirt buttons at home), there was an impressive roster of labels represented.

PHOTOS: Emmys 2011 menswear photo gallery

Emmys 2011 Ty BurrellYes, the red-carpet regulars were well represented; among the big names were Tom Ford (Jon Hamm wore a TF double-breasted shawl lapel tuxedo, Rob Lowe turned out in single-breasted peak lapel version), Burberry (Ryan Seacrest, Rainn Wilson) Ermenegildo Zegna (including lead actor in a comedy series winner Jim Parsons, who wore a three-piece, black velvet, one-button peak lapel tuxedo from the Z Zegna label) and Hugo Boss (including one of the night's winners, Kyle Chandler, who wore a Boss Black tuxedo).

But there was something refreshing about seeing "Parks and Recreation" actor Aziz Ansari in a navy blue
weave tuxedo from the Hickey Freeman & Opening Ceremony collaboration, Michael C. Hall ("Dexter") sporting a Simon Spurr tuxedo, Jon Cryer standing out ever so subtly from the other two and a half thousand tuxedo-wearing men in the room by opting for a black leather shawl collar on his Anthony Franco tuxedo, and "Fightin' Jimmy" Fallon throwing down against Jimmy Kimmel clad in a Rag & Bone "Razor" tuxedo. 

The democracy of dapperness fit nicely with one of the night's major themes observed by Los Angeles Times fashion critic Booth Moore -- that the Emmy Awards afford slightly more opportunity for lesser-known or up-and-coming designers to be showcased -- and noticed.

The bow tie was back in vogue for the majority of the menfolk, and a few of the sharp-dressed men managed to add a rakish sartorial  signature by wearing their ties ever-so-slightly tweaked (on purpose, we'd like to think). None did this with more aplomb than Ty Burrell ("Modern Family") who took home an award for supporting actor in a comedy series, and whose black bow tie tilted nearly imperceptibly to the left -- as perfectly askew as his acceptance speech.

-- Adam Tschorn


 Emmys 2011: Best of the rest -- beauty, jewelry and accessories

Photos: 2011 Emmys: Best dressed, worst dressed

Emmys 2011: Old Hollywood style vs. new

Photos: At top left, Jon Cryer in a black Anthony Franco tuxedo with a black leather shawl collar. (Credit: Kevin Winter/Getty Images) At top right, Jimmy Kimmel (left) wrestles with a  Rag & Bone- wearing Jimmy Fallon. (Credit: Mark Boster/Los Angeles Times) At bottom, Ty Burrell accepts his Emmy at the 63rd Annual Primetime Emmy Awards ceremony on Sunday. (Credit: Mark J. Terrill/AP photo) 

New York Fashion Week: Rag & Bone


Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainright and David Neville must have had the sun and surf in mind when they designed their spring collection, which was beach bum dressing at its best, with a juicy color palette of turquoise, orange and sunshine yellow, and technical fabrics juxtaposed with soft, craftsy knits.


Scuba-inspired skirts with cut outs exposed flashes of skin, and long, billowy parachute skirts, were worn with nubby, open weave crochet cardigans in a melange of colors, some revealing brightly-colored bikinis underneath.


Fall's trendy poncho reappeared in ocean blue nylon piped in orange, while pants sported athletic stripes down the sides. There were also pajama-style print pants (which are looking like a big spring trend), and boxy, brightly colored tweed jackets, with slouchy crochet bags, raffia sandals and sandal booties rounding out the luxe bohemian look.

--Booth Moore


New York Fashion Week coverage

New York Fashion Week: The Row by Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen

New York Fashion Week: Jason Wu

Photos: Looks from Rag & Bone Spring 2012 shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Slaven Vlasic / Getty Images.

New York Fashion Week: It's true Brit at Rag & Bone's menswear show

Rag and bone menswear

The women's side of the collection, which was presented in a separate runway show, may have been "chalet chic meets the street," but the Rag & Bone menswear was cool Brittania all the way.

With inspirations that included English gamekeepers, Scottish game hunters and the Duke of Windsor (a perennial touchstone of men's fashion), and a color palette that included hunter green, sky blue and a riot of plaids, the design duo of Marcus Wainwright and David Neville tapped into the British invasion of the fall-winter 2011 menswear collections that we started to see at the European shows in January (Yves Saint Laurent in particular comes to mind).

That meant tartan Lowland blazers, moss green windowpane tweed Highland blazers, kilts (with the occasional sporran) herringbone vests, Oxford button-down shirts and hobnail boots.

There's perhaps no piece of headgear more quintessentially English than the bowler hat, and there were Rage_rag_bone2
plenty of felt bowlers on hand (make that head) in a range of colors including blue, red, ivory, rust and beige.

But the inspiration wasn't purely plucked from across the pond, the collection included some touches of classic Americana as well, such as varsity jackets and swirling varsity letter appliques (the swirling letters "R" and "B," awarded, one can assume, for lettering in runway) and trousers and blazers in the blanket-weight wool we've come to associate with the American West in general (and Pendleton in particular).

Oh, did we mention there were also toggle button coats? Given the number of toggle closures and horn-shaped buttons we've seen since the shows started in mid-January, if there was such a thing as toggle futures, an early investor might expect to have buttoned up a tidy profit by the time fall 2011 rolls around.

-- Adam Tschorn in New York

Photos: Looks from the Rag & Bone menswear runway show Friday during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times


Recommended on Facebook


In Case You Missed It...


Tweets and retweets from L.A. Times staff writers.