All The Rage
The Image staff muses on the culture of
keeping up appearances
NYFW review: Proenza Schouler's fall 2009 collection
NEW YORK -- There was a greatest-hits vibe to many of the collections shown last week in New York as designers stayed in their comfort zones, reiterating what they do best. For Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, that meant tapping back into the youthful, sporty spirit on which their line was founded. No more sculptural Mickey Mouse ear sleeves or costumey bobby hats -- just smart outerwear and cool girl dresses, albeit many of them too wintertime heavy for L.A.
Raglan sleeved peacoats and jackets in heavy charcoal and camel twill with black insets had a collegiate feel, paired with salt 'n' pepper tweed walking shorts and low-slung miniskirts. Mini-dresses with contoured panels of quilted forest green, navy, black and burgundy nylon had an outdoorsy feel, some with the bra-top effect that is a signature of the designers. Cable-knit tights and lug-soled boots completed the look.
The final dresses were collages of shredded violet, midnight blue or forest green velvet suspended on sheer black netting creating a sense of beautiful decay.
-- Booth Moore
RELATED:
Fashion Week review: Newer generation of designers energizes the runways
Photos: Behind the scenes at Fall 2009 New York Fashion Week
Photos: Proenza Schouler's fall 2009 collection
More New York Fashion Week coverage
Proenza Schouler's one-piece wonders
Photo credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times
One-piece wonder
What is it about a jumpsuit that’s just so darn cute?
Are they a reminder of those cute footy pajamas we wore as kids? Or are they just more stylish and less predictable than the standard T-shirt and jeans, blouse and skirt combos?
Whatever the motivation, many designers were inspired to do jumpsuits for spring. Proenza Schouler sent down all-white jumpsuits with hard lines and leather bondage-style straps that crossed on the back. Phillip Lim took a softer route and did one in a smoky blue with a gentle tie waist. The most classic styles were in Ralph Lauren-structured black with strong shoulders and blazer lapels and a creamy ivory satin suit that looked as lithe and luxurious as any of his gorgeous evening gowns.
But the surprise came from Tadashi, a designer generally known for doing evening dresses and bridal party ensembles. He sent out royal blue short-alls (like a jumpsuit, but with short pants) with a ruffled halter neck. It was a one-piece little number that was not only totally unexpected from him, but it actually looked good.
We won’t be surprised to see bridesmaids in matching jumpsuits and short-alls next summer.
-- Melissa Magsaysay
Photos top to bottom: Ralph Lauren, Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler. Photo credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times