Proenza Schouler on cusp of expansion

After 10 years in  business, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler are among the most influential fashion designers in the country (witness their nominations in two categories in this year's Council of Fashion Designers of American annual competition).

Now they are poised to expand. Los Angeles Times Fashion Critic Booth Moore spent some time with the duo recently to find out what inspires their designs and what the future holds. Her report appears in Sunday's Image section.

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New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Proenza Schouler' fight club

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Lazaro Hernandez, left, and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler greet the crowd during their runway show in New York in February. Credit: Carolyn Cole / Los Angeles Times

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012 review: Proenza Schouler's fight club

 

There was a lot of talk at the end of New York Fashion Week about how derivative some of the New York collections were. It's true that many of the runway shows were reminiscent of what was shown on the European runways in the recent past, particularly at Celine, where Paris designer Phoebe Philo started the color-blocking and sleek tailoring trend several seasons ago. Which raises the question: Where was the newness?

When it comes to fashion innovation, Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez never disappoint. Their collection, with its outsized proportions and unique fabrications, was a thrill ride.

They explored the idea of protection with tough-looking, oversize jackets in white cotton pique, black leather or quilted nylon. Fencing, karate, judo and other fight sports inspired the silhouettes and the padded details, while handicrafts from Bhutan (where the designers recently traveled) inspired the colorful basket-weave leather jackets.

The fronts of plastic-y, lacquered lace tunics, or leather-front sweaters with side zippers, were tucked into hip-slung miniskirts (some made from plastic beads) or wide-legged trousers.

For evening, the designers picked up on the week's Asian inspiration but in a wholly new way -- showing minidresses in collage-y brocades. For accessories, there were some seriously tough-looking boots (especially the knee-high versions) and a new structured handbag shape with top handles, almost like a doctor's bag.  

It was a strong, confident statement from the designers. How many of the runway pieces actually get produced and end up in stores will be interesting to see. (A separate, more basic showroom collection is also available.) But the influence, especially of the oversize silhouette, should reverberate for seasons to come. Which is why, in New York, Proenza Schouler is always one to watch.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Photos: Models walk the runway Wednesday at the Proenza Schouler fall 2012 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City. Credit: by Seth Wenig / Associated Press except top middle and right by Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images.

New York Fashion Week: Proenza Schouler

Midcentury architecture, shiny new cars and suburban bliss meets ticky-tacky, tiki-themed, naugahyde-covered, shag-carpeted rumpus room.

That's what went through my head watching the Proenza Schouler show, which hinted at some of the hallmarks of the postwar boom, as filtered through a dingy lens.

Current affairs, including the limping economy, high levels of unemployment and a Washington stalemate were the pink elephants in the room during this fashion week, but very few designers addressed them. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez seemed at least to acknowledge that all is not right with the world, by working a pretty-ugly, faux-real theme in mostly grungy colors.

They started with shapely jackets and shorts in dark brown and black patterns that brought to mind cheap wood paneling (in a good way!). An A-line skirt came in the kind of faux-zebra print you'd expect to find on a car seat cover. 

It wasn't ostrich or crocodile but eel skin that was this season's exotic. A teal-colored, eel-skin wrap skirt was paired with an embroidered floral top. Hawaiian florals were splashed across sarong skirts belted tunics and straight pants, looking beautiful and garish at the same time.

The designers have been dabbling for several seasons now in arts andcrafts, and for this collection, they created several crocheted raffia pieces, including a striped full skirt and polo shirt. Rounding out the thoughtful and clever collection were faux croc print bags and rattan wedge sandals.

And if it sounds like they were a little short on things to really wear, consider this: The tiki head motif on a cropped slate jersey jacket could easily make its way onto more moderately priced T-shirts, and the crocheted raffia could translate well onto bags and such, especially now that contemporary clothing king, Theory Chief Executive Andrew Rosen, has acquired a controlling stake in the Proenza Schouler business.

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--Booth Moore

Photos: Looks from the Proenza Schouler spring 2012 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Mary Altaffer / Associated Press

Aromatherapy for the harried Angeleno

 
Many spas swear by it, and candle-store owners have embraced it. The medical establishment and the FDA question its usefulness. What about the rest of us? For the average consumer, aromatherapy is something to encounter in a mall or in the halls of a swank hotel -- pleasant, soothing, temporarily uplifting.

There are those converts, of course, who swear by the healing properties of aromatherapy. As with all believers, they have formed associations: The Alliance of International Aromatherapists, the National Assn. of Holistic Aromatherapists, the Natural Assn. for Holistic Aromatherapy.

And they have started businesses and product lines. Among the most recent is 21 Drops, which launched in November. Founders Cary Caster and Amy Ilyse Rosenthal recently explained their products and philosophy on the patio outside Fred Segal:

Aromatherapy, said Caster (who is a licensed massage therapist and an advanced clinically certified aromatherapist) "is the practice of using essential oils for their curative properties." Caster's and Rosenthal's oils are distilled from plants, mixed in various formulas and combined into 21 different products (hence the "21 Drops") with names such as "Calm," "Decongest," "Sleep," and "Hangover." They are meant to be inhaled or applied topically. Each formula is packaged in a roller-top glass bottle that sits in a sturdy case, which is, in turn, nestled in an individually designed box with a "batch card" that lists and explains the ingredients.

Fashion News: Kellan Lutz models. Pippa Middleton heads for TV.

"Twilight's" Kellan Lutz has returned to his modeling roots, shooting sexy new fall ad campaigns for denim brand Dylan George and for Abbot + Main by Dylan George. The ads were shot in a mansion in Beverly Hills by photographer Yu Tsai and also feature model Anne Vyalitsyna. Lutz shows much more skin than he does in the photo at left. [New York Daily News]

Fashion girl-of-the-moment Pippa Middleton will be profiled in an hourlong TLC special Aug. 9. It will show her shopping, among other things. [The Cut]

Galaxy star David Beckham's new line of bodywear will make its debut at H&M in February. [WWD] (Subscription required.) 

Whoops! Lancome and Maybelline were taken to task for ads that seem to have been retouched too much. The British Advertising Standards Authority banned ads for Lancome's Teint Miracle foundation featuring Julia Roberts, and for Maybelline's The Eraser featuring Christy Turlington. [Los Angeles Times]

Tom Ford has opened his first boutique in Britain, in a space in Harrods in London. [Telegraph]

Theory's Andrew Rosen, with help from some New York investors, is reportedly poised to buy a 45% stake in Proenza Schouler. The deal would leave Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who founded the label together in 2002, with 65%, and position Proenza Schouler for major expansion. [The Cut]

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Kellan Lutz at a party sponsored by Summit Entertainment during the recent Comic-Con convention in San Diego. Credit: Michael Buckner /Getty Images for Summit Entertainment

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Your Stylist: Loafers are fall’s hot shoe

 Resident Image stylist and market editor Melissa Magsaysay soothes your sartorial woes in the weekly Your Stylist blog column:

Sure, loafers have a traditionally preppy appeal synonymous with private school uniforms or country club get-ups, but the style is getting a considerably sexy twist for fall, coming with treacherous heels, wedges and luxe leather materials.       

Take a look at versions that turned up on the YSL and Alexander Wang runways. Wang did them as super-high stilettos with disco ball-esque metallic leathers and YSL has a thick wedge on their kilty detailed, patent-leather loafers.

This year also marks the 75th anniversary of the Bass Weejun (arguably the loafer of all loafers) and the company is releasing a limited edition collection of classic Weejun styles, plus a few fun pairs in metallic leather and with tassel details.

For something less traditional,  but still with same preppy polish, Belle by Sigerson Morrison is doing a couple of loafer-esque shoes with high and chunky heels and a comfortable, squishy crepe sole.

Proenza Schouler is going a more masculine route, with a flat ankle boot that has a subtle tassel detail.

Since the style has a strong preppy vibe (even if done with a stiletto heel or in a funky color), stick with clean and classic lines and solid or simple patterns when pairing them with your clothing. Basically, anything flowy, boho-esque or too soft and romantic looking won’t work with the season’s loafers.

Try pieces such as a traditional tan trench, cropped ankle-length trousers, a sexy pencil skirt and sophisticated knee-length shift dresses when wearing fall’s big shoe trend.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

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Photos at top from left: Alexander Wang metallic leather loafers/Gianni Pucci, gorunway.com. YSL patent leather wedge loafers/Gianni Pucci, gorunway.com.

Middle, from left: Belle by Sigerson Morrison kilty loafer heels, $350 at www.zappos.com. Belle by Sigerson Morrison, Bass Weejun 75th anniversary edition, $109 at www.bassshoes.com/Bass.

Bottom, from left: Proenza Schouler tassle ankle boots/Proenza Schouler, $1,055 at Saks Fifth Avenue. Belle by Sigerson Morrison patent leather kilty loafer heels, $350 at Saks Fifth Avenue/Belle by Sigerson Morrison.

Currently Coveting: Proenza Schouler’s neoprene beach bag

There’s something about these neoprene backpacks from Proenza Schouler’s summer line that brings me right back to my childhood when I wore coordinating Body Glove separates on the beach. 

The shape and fabric scream Southern California summertime and the climbing rope drawstring and mesh pockets add a chic sportiness that looks good on the beach or just paired with easy basics like a white T-shirt, jeans and gold aviator sunglasses or a little black dress and flip-flops.

There are also pockets inside to separate wet and dry clothes and the easily cinchable drawstring closure seems like it would keep out more sand than an average floppy tote bag.

The Proenza boys (designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough) continue to be inspired by the '80s and '90s surf and skate scene, which they referenced heavily in their spring and resort 2010 collections, which were full of wetsuit-inspired dresses that came in color blocking and bright blues, just like this backpack.

There's a towel too, which comes in this graphic and colorful print that is a part of their fall 2011 line. It's all from a high-end label (with the high-end price tag to match) but I can't help but think of Maui & Sons, OP and Body Glove, SoCal surf brands that shaped the sporty, surf-inspired look that clearly continues to influence designers today.

Both items are available for pre-order now (to ship June 27), exclusively at www.proenzaschouler.com

-- Melissa Magsaysay

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Photos: Proenza Schouler beach bag, top and bottom,$485; Proenza Schouler beach towel $145. Credits: Proenza Schouler

Your Morning Fashion and Beauty Report: Michelle Obama's elegant American style

While everyone was still drooling over Friday's royal wedding fashion, First Lady Michelle Obama showed elegant American style at Saturday night's White House correspondents dinner, in a mauve-chocolate empire-waist gown, accessorized by multiple bracelets and necklaces. She wore her hair in flattering loose curls. [StyleList] 

Also at the dinner, Scarlett Johansson debuted her new red hair color, joining numerous celebs who've been going the red route. [StyleList]

Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are working on a costume-jewelry line that is to include year-round, classic pieces that will be brought out each season in different colors and materials. [WWD]

California action-sports brand Volcom is being acquired by French luxury lifestyle group PPR -- which also owns Gucci and Puma -- in a deal reportedly valued at $607.5 million. [Wall Street Journal]  [WWD] (Subscription required.)

French designer Léa Peckre, 26, won the L’Oréal Professional grand prize, worth about $22,000, at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography over the weekend. The collection was described as "cemetery themed," and it featured an angular tailcoat-inspired jacket in black velvet and skirts with organic flounces richly embroidered with wood-effect sequins. [WWD]

-- Susan Denley

Photo: President Obama and the first lady at the White House correspondents dinner, April 30, 2011. Credit: Jason Reed / Reuters   

Trend alert: The 'drug rug' (Baja pullover) is back

 
Just in time for music festival season, designers have appropriated another tried-and-true piece of hippiedom--the Baja pullover. Beloved by surfers and Deadheads, and known affectionately in some hacky sack circles as "drug rugs," the woven hoodies are available at all price points. From left to right, Proenza Schouler, $1,500 at Net-a-porter; Mara Hoffman, $335 for pre-order at ShopSheBoutique.com; Elizabeth & James, $165 at revolveclothing.com; and Tory Burch, $325 at Saks.

Or you can always go trippin' down memory lane wearing an original, just $10.95 in a host of colors and stripes at Casa Bernal, and other stalls and stores on Olvera Street in Los Angeles. So they're made of acrylic instead of cotton, and they don't have a fancy designer label. They still have a kangaroo stash pocket for keys, an iPhone and whatever else lights your fire.  

--Booth Moore

Photos of Baja pullovers from Net-a-porter, ShopSheBoutique, RevolveClothing and Saks Fifth Avenue.

Gifts inspired by the Oscars: '127 Hours'

In the week leading up to Sunday's Academy Awards, we're giving you some gift ideas inspired by Oscar nominees.
 
 
I know, I know. It seems almost wrong to talk fashion in light of "127 Hours’" harrowing real-life plot. But it’s more evidence of how the film touched us (to the depths of Utah’s Blue John Canyon). 

And with models rappelling onto the runway on climbing ropes at Band of Outsiders' fall-winter 2011 fashion show, donning colorfully laced hiking boots, it’s hard to ignore the influence. A climbing rope was literally protagonist Aron Rolston’s lifesaver. “If I drop the rope, the game is over,” he says in his book, "127 Hours: Between a Rock and a Hard Place." So what better way to pay tribute to his ordeal and triumph? Think of Proenza Schouler’s Climbing Rope Bracelets as the Aron Rolston/127 Hours bracelet —along the lines of the rubbery Lance Armstrong LiveStrong bracelet, albeit a thousand times more chic. The Proenza bracelets are wrapped with raffia or hemp and trimmed with zipper pulls. (Bracelets from $125 in six colors and necklaces from $450 at proenzaschouler.com or openingceremony.com; [310] 652-1120).

Or rock out a thrill-seeking friend’s home with these uncannily coordinating mouth-blown glass bowls by designer Alexis Georgacopoulos that come with two sets of bungee handles, in red and blue. (Bowls in two sizes, from $150 at aplusrstore.com — one of our favorite Venice design destinations.)

--Ingrid Schmidt

Photos: Top, James Franco in "127 Hours." Credit: Chuck Zlotnick / Associated Press

Friday: "The Fighter"