Fashion Diary: L.A. wins at the CFDA

Gossip, first impressions, trends in the making, celebrities and style setters. A regular feature by fashion critic Booth Moore.

 

NEW YORK -- It was a big night for Los Angeles at the Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards, the apparel industry equivalent to the Oscars held at Lincoln Center's Alice Tully Hall on Monday. Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, who started making dresses in their parents' guest house in Pasadena just four years ago, took the womenswear designer of the year award.

 

Not since James Galanos won the lifetime achievement award in 1984 has a Left Coast label made such an impact on the Seventh Avenue-centric CFDA, a non-profit trade organization that supports American designers. Unlike Galanos, whose beaded confections were all Nancy Reagan perfection, the Mulleavys' horror-film-meets-haute-couture aesthetic reflects the dichotomy of the California dream with blood red-streaked and graffitied chiffon gowns, shredded leather leggings and bike jackets and spike-covered stilettos.

 

The self-taught sisters have earned a loyal following in Hollywood with celebs such as Kirsten Dunst, who led the designers' cheering section Monday night. Also in the visiting-from-California contingent: Decades' Cameron Silver, Toms Shoes' Blake Mycoskie and Trovata's John Whitledge.

 

NYFW review: Proenza Schouler's fall 2009 collection

NEW YORK -- There was a greatest-hits vibe to many of the collections shown last week in New York as designers stayed in their comfort zones, reiterating what they do best. For Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, that meant tapping back into the youthful, sporty spirit on which their line was founded. No more sculptural Mickey Mouse ear sleeves or costumey bobby hats -- just smart outerwear and cool girl dresses, albeit many of them too wintertime heavy for L.A.

Raglan sleeved peacoats and jackets in heavy charcoal and camel twill with black insets had a collegiate feel, paired with salt 'n' pepper tweed walking shorts and low-slung miniskirts. Mini-dresses with contoured panels of quilted forest green, navy, black and burgundy nylon had an outdoorsy feel, some with the bra-top effect that is a signature of the designers. Cable-knit tights and lug-soled boots completed the look.

The final dresses were collages of shredded violet, midnight blue or forest green velvet suspended on sheer black netting creating a sense of beautiful decay.

-- Booth Moore

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Proenza Schouler's one-piece wonders

Photo credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

One-piece wonder

What is it about a jumpsuit that’s just so darn cute?

Are they a reminder of those cute footy pajamas we wore as kids? Or are they just more stylish and less predictable than the standard T-shirt and jeans, blouse and skirt combos?

Whatever the motivation, many designers were inspired to do jumpsuits for spring. Proenza Schouler sent down all-white jumpsuits with hard lines and leather bondage-style straps that crossed on the back. Phillip Lim took a softer route and did one in a smoky blue with a gentle tie waist.  The most classic styles were in Ralph Lauren-structured black with strong shoulders and blazer lapels and a creamy ivory satin suit that looked as lithe and luxurious as any of his gorgeous evening gowns.

But the surprise came from Tadashi, a designer generally known for doing evening dresses and bridal party ensembles. He sent out royal blue short-alls (like a jumpsuit, but with short pants) with a ruffled halter neck. It was a one-piece little number that was not only totally unexpected from him, but it actually looked good.

We won’t be surprised to see bridesmaids in matching jumpsuits and short-alls next summer.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos top to bottom: Ralph Lauren, Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler. Photo credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times