Books for fashion and perfume lovers

If you're style-inclined, sometimes it's not enough to read blogs and fashion magazines. Sometimes you may want to do more than browse in stores and plow through catalogs.

Sometimes you've got to embrace the canon of fashion and beauty literature.  Fashion critic Booth Moore and staff writer Adam Tschorn explore a handful of current offerings. Among them:

"City of Style," by Melissa Magsaysay, a former Times style writer, who has created a field guide to L.A. style in all its incarnations; "By Invitation Only: How We Built Gilt and Changed the Way Millions Shop,"  the story of the launching of Gilt Group; "Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations," a catalog for an exhibition of the same name at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York; and "The Gentry Man: A Guide for the Civilized Male," a series of articles culled from the 1950s Gentry magazine.

If you're scent-inclined, this spring the publishing world has released a series of books that should fill many hours of reading time. Denise Hamilton surveys a clutch of offerings that range from Denyse Beaulieu's new memoir, "The Perfume Lover," to Alyssa Harad's "Coming to My Senses: A Story of Perfume, Pleasure and an Unlikely Bride."

There's a three-day weekend coming up, the perfect time, perhaps, to indulge a style and beauty habit.

-- Alice Short

Photo: "City of Style" cover. Credit: It Books

Your Stylist: All-natural and organic perfumes

I’ve  met a few women recently who say they don’t wear perfume because of the chemicals and/or because of allergies or sensitivity to synthetic scents. They would like to wear perfume and have a signature scent that lingers subtly in a room even after they’ve left, but cannot stomach the potential headache.

There are several companies who make all-natural and organic fragrances, some without alcohol, some are vegan, all might be a good solution for anyone who’s always stayed away from the shelves at Sephora because of a sensitivity to traditional perfumes.

“Basically you have organics, naturals and botanicals,” explains Adam Eastwood; co-founder of online retailer luckyscent.com, a website of hard-to-find and specialty scents and Scent Bar, its bricks and mortar equivalent.  “Botanical perfume means it’s all-natural and vegan, so no animal products, beeswax, musk or ambergris is used. Natural fragrances are made from all-natural ingredients rather than synthesized ones.” But, he adds, if it's not organic then presumably someone can still be exposed to pesticides and fertilizers that were used in the cultivation of the natural ingredients.

A French company called Honore Des Pres makes organic perfume that comes packaged in whimsical marmalade jars and to-go style coffee cups. The scents do not contain any petrochemicals or synthetic perfumes. They are also free of coloring agents and animal byproducts or any ingredient traditionally known to irritate sensitive skin.

The “nose” behind this line is famed perfumer Olivia Giacobetti, who has also created scents for L'Artisan, Costes, Penhaligon's and Diptyque. Giacobetti's creations for the company range from a creamy coconut scent called Coconut Love to a fresh green mix named Nu Green.

A recently launched line called Crow perfume is entirely water-based, eliminating alcohol, which can sometimes be drying or irritating on people’s skin, but also is a key ingredient in holding a scent’s staying power.

Creator Emily Lape wanted a healthful and natural perfume and she’s come up with six scents -- all water-based and void of parabens, oils and phthalates as well as being cruelty free.

"Today’s women are much more aware of the environment and the ingredients in their cosmetic bag, yet we still want our perfume to evoke sophistication and femininity,” says Lape. “When I went out to look for such a perfume I could not find it on the market.”

Natural scents may not all have the same amount of staying power as traditional scents (possibly a good thing for those who are sensitive or just anyone who prefers something light) so perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz created three botanical scents for online retailer indiescents.com with a focus on making natural perfumes that still carried some intensity.

There are 12 scents ranging from Vanille Bontanique, a rich, botanical vanilla, to a floral, green, citrus called Hand of Buddha.

“These seem to have a remarkable amount of staying power compared to some other natural lines I’ve seen,” says Eastman.

But he also goes on to say that sometimes synthetics used in fragrances are actually less harmful than naturals when it comes to a person’s sensitivity.

“By wearing a natural scent you are exposed to far more molecules than with synthetics. So in many ways synthetics are better and more benign than naturals,” Eastman says.

He adds that one of the benefits to synthetics is that the scent is more defined and tends not to change too much on the skin like a natural fragrance might.

It just depends on what you’re looking for in a fragrance. After all, scent should be totally personal.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

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Photos, from top: Love Coconut from Honore Des Pres/Honore Des Pres.

Crow Perfume Fruta + Lecha perfume/Crow Perfume.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for indiescents.com Vanille Botanique/indiescents.com

Your Stylist: Switching up your scent for fall

While many of us have a tried and true scent we stick to (for some people that might be Body Shop’s White Musk worn since the eighth grade, though I’m not naming any names), but fall is always an appropriate time to start thinking about putting away the fruity or vanilla stuff of summer and establishing a new and possibly headier aroma.   

Here are some of the season’s newest fragrance releases. With the robust offerings and wide variety of notes, there’s bound to be something for everyone. 

 The royal watcher

Black Jade from Lubin Paris. This storied scent was originally created in the late 18th century for Marie Antoinette. Inspired by her flower gardens at Versailles, the blend includes notes of jasmine, incense, rose, patchouli and amber.

As one might assume of an older scent made for royalty, Black Jade is decadent, rich and powerful. It's certainly not for those who like a subtle scent, but is great for those who love the history behind the perfume and aren't afraid of some potent notes. Top: $160 for 100 milliliters at Lucky Scent, L.A.

 The sweet tooth 

Prada Candy. The name pretty much sums it up. This one’s for the girl who likes her scents sweet -- cotton candy sweet. But thankfully, as with Thierry Mugler’s Angel, the caramel of Candy is balanced with earthier musk notes. The pink and black bottle with amber-colored perfume looks good enough to eat. Upper left: $180 for 2.7 ounces at Neiman Marcus.

DKNY Golden Delicious. Also another warm and practically edible scent, the fourth installment in the DKNY Be Delicious family is packed with musk, sandalwood and teakwood to temper the signature fruitiness of the apple-inspired fragrance. Upper right: $42 for 1 ounce at Sephora.

The class act

Burberry Body. A bit lighter and younger than the British luxury houses’ previous scents, Burberry Body is a sophisticated blend of rose, iris, absinthe, vanilla and amber. The result is a fresh and creamy floral that would appeal to a woman who wants her scent to transition from day to night. Upper left: $75 for 2 ounces, available in September.

The fancy lady

Chanel No. 19 Poudre. A recent rendition of Chanel No. 19 (a name inspired by Coco Chanel’s Aug. 19 birthday) No. 19 Poudre is brimming with powder and musk. But the powder here isn’t overly powerful, as it’s balanced with fresh and floaty green notes such as neroli, galbanum, jasmine, iris and vetiver. The result is soft yet refined. The striking square bottle is just begging to be placed on top of a pretty vanity. Above: $85 for 1.7 oz at Saks Fifth Avenue.

 

Dahlia Noir. Powdery but aggressive at the same time, this pink-tinged perfume in an elegantly architectural bottle is for the fancy lady likes her florals mixed with woody notes like sandalwood and Tonka bean. Above left: $90 for 1.7 ounces at Neiman Marcus.

The girly girl

Coach Poppy Flower.  An upbeat follow-up to Coach Poppy, Poppy Flower is bright, floral and super feminine without being  overpowering. There are notes of jasmine, water lily, peony and sugared raspberry that call to mind an energetic college student who likes a cheery and versatile scent. Right: $45 for 1 oz at Coach stores and Coach.com.

Diane. The newest scent from Diane Von Furstenberg Diane is ultra feminine and intense –- in a good way. Frangipani and violet leaves are mixed with musk and patchouli for an exotic but ultimately fresh and girly fragrance. Left:  Available in October.

 

 

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-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos from top: Black Jade by Lubin Paris, Prada Candy, DKNY Golden Delicious, Burberry Body,Chanel No. 10 Poudre, Givenchy Dahlia Noir, Coach Poppy Flower, Diane. Credits, from top: Lubin Paris, Prada, DKNY, Burberry, Chanel, Givenchy, Coach, Diane von Furstenberg

Aromatherapy for the harried Angeleno

 
Many spas swear by it, and candle-store owners have embraced it. The medical establishment and the FDA question its usefulness. What about the rest of us? For the average consumer, aromatherapy is something to encounter in a mall or in the halls of a swank hotel -- pleasant, soothing, temporarily uplifting.

There are those converts, of course, who swear by the healing properties of aromatherapy. As with all believers, they have formed associations: The Alliance of International Aromatherapists, the National Assn. of Holistic Aromatherapists, the Natural Assn. for Holistic Aromatherapy.

And they have started businesses and product lines. Among the most recent is 21 Drops, which launched in November. Founders Cary Caster and Amy Ilyse Rosenthal recently explained their products and philosophy on the patio outside Fred Segal:

Aromatherapy, said Caster (who is a licensed massage therapist and an advanced clinically certified aromatherapist) "is the practice of using essential oils for their curative properties." Caster's and Rosenthal's oils are distilled from plants, mixed in various formulas and combined into 21 different products (hence the "21 Drops") with names such as "Calm," "Decongest," "Sleep," and "Hangover." They are meant to be inhaled or applied topically. Each formula is packaged in a roller-top glass bottle that sits in a sturdy case, which is, in turn, nestled in an individually designed box with a "batch card" that lists and explains the ingredients.

Boxer Manny Pacquiao launches a men's fragrance

Exactly one week before he's scheduled to step into the ring at the MGM Grand Garden Arena in Las Vegas to battle Shane Mosley, pugilist, politician and casino pitchman Manny "Pac-Man" Pacquiao stepped behind the velvet rope at a Los Angeles boutique to take a swing at the celebrity scent market.

Dressed in a trim-fitting navy blue suit, light blue dress shirt, Burberry necktie and carrying a fedora (?), Pacquiao arrived at the Ron Robinson Fred Segal boutique on Melrose Avenue an hour and a half late for the fragrance launch (according to his reps, the Pac-Man had spent the day training at a nearby gym), posing briefly with boutique owner Ron Robinson and two sign-carrying faux ring girls in tank tops and hot pants before heading inside for a meet-and-greet with fans patiently waiting to get his autograph on their recently purchased bottles of his new fragrance. 

Called MP8 Scent of The Champion (a reference to the boxer's eight world boxing titles in eight

Sniff test: Making scents of Khloe Kardashian and Lamar Odom's Unbreakable

Forget that the recent Hollywood "launch party" for the new Lamar Odom and Khloe Kardashian branded unisex fragrance "Unbreakable" was nothing more than a set piece for the couple's soon-to-debut reality show.

And forget, if you can, that this fragrance is being unleashed on the world by a professional basketball player who just so happens to be sweating 95% of the time he's in the public eye, and a woman whose curious blend of celebrity stems from being someone else's sister.

It would be easy to be a hater, but as far as we can see it, if someone's willing to try and make a few bucks (or create a reality show plot line) by filling and marketing the essence of their unbreakable bond of love, all the more power to them. At least they didn't name the fragrance "Klamar."

Here at All The Rage, all we really wanted to know was what, exactly, Unbreakable smelled like. The scent, made by Lighthouse (the same company that gave us sister Kim Kardashian's eponymous perfume) is described as a "harmonious blend of nutmeg, bergamot and orange [that] fuses sultry geranium, jasmine and dark chocolate with a rich base of cedarwood, amber, sandalwood and musk."

In the spirit of the unisex fragrance, two of us spritzed, sniffed and scrutinized a sample. The results:

Adam Tschorn: "It's kind of sickly sweet like cotton candy."

Booth Moore: "It smells like a girl's high school locker room."

A: "It makes me think this is what the Laker Girls smell like."

B: "It reminds me of that Bonne Bell roll-on lipgloss that used to come in the glass bottle. Or Love's Baby Soft.

A: "I'm not finding much of a guy smell in here -- no musk, no cedarwood -- if it's here, it's buried."

B: It's kind of like one of those designer imposter scents -- 'If you like Calvin Klein Obsession, you'll love Confess!'"

A: "It's a generic smell -- kind of like what someone unfamiliar with humans might imagine a woman smells like."

B: "Unfortunately, you know what it smells like? Scented tampons."

A: "It's giving me a headache."

B: "There's a hint of sweaty palm awkwardness too."

The upshot? Unbreakable wasn't something this duo would dab behind their collective ears, but since scents interact with everyone's body oils differently, the safest thing to do -- as with any scent -- is to try before you buy.

Because we're guessing that Unbreakable is probably unreturnable too.

Unbreakable by Khloé and Lamar eau de toilette spray (1 oz. for $30 and 3.4 oz for $45 ), available exclusively at Perfumania stores (including Westfield Culver City and Santa Anita Mall locally) and online at perfumania.com.

-- Booth Moore and Adam Tschorn

Photo: Khloe Kardashian Odom and Lamar Odom pose for photographers during the "Unbreakable" Fragrance Launch Monday at the Redbury in Los Angeles. Credit:  Frederick M. Brown/Getty Images.

 

Keira Knightley revs up Chanel in racy new ad [Updated]

The star of the new Chanel ad for Coco Mademoiselle perfume, which debuted Monday online, is debatable. Some would say it's Keira Knightley, who reprises her film role as the famed French designer in this cryptic, come-hither, 60-second spot. Others might say it's the vintage Ducati 750 SS motorcycle Knightley wheels over the cobbled streets in and around Paris, catching air off a flight of stairs en route to a photo shoot. Personally, I'd say it's the custom Chanel catsuit and boots that Knightley's wearing. Color-coordinated with the Ducati, the zip-up -- rather, zip-down -- Chanel is beige, suede and utterly alluring. The ads air nationwide Wednesday. [Updated March 23, 10:15 a.m.: A previous version of this post said the ad was shot in a French town.]

-- Susan Carpenter

Video: Chanel

The new Jimmy Choo fragrance is for a true glamour girl

As one might expect, the first fragrance from Jimmy Choo is strong, sexy, alluring and hits you on the head like a 5-inch spiked stiletto. The baby pink perfume, housed in a round, faceted bottle inspired by Murano glass, contains notes of Tiger orchid, toffee and Indonesian patchouli.

The outcome of these various notes smells warm, spicy and woodsy and isn’t for the woman who wants to go noticed during a night out -- in fact, just the opposite.

“The Jimmy Choo fragrance evokes a sense of feminine confidence, seduction and sensuality,” says Tamara Mellon, founder and chief creative officer of the luxury accessories brand. In fact, the scent is very fitting of Mellon and any glamour girl or femme fatal just like her.

Mellon will even be starring in the ads for the fragrance, dressed in a draped, off-the-shoulder, pink python print dress (similar to the print on the perfume’s box, which is patterned after a pink python shoe in the spring 2011 collection) and shot by Inez van Lamsweerde Vinoodh Matadin.

The scent certainly embodies a glamorous woman who isn’t afraid to make an entrance and possibly leave a distinct trace of her scent whereever she goes.

The Jimmy Choo fragrance collection is at Saks Fifth Avenue.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photo: Jimmy Choo fragrance/Jimmy Choo

Tired of girly perfumes? Check out what guys are wearing

Everyone seems up for a change at the start of a new year. As I was cleaning out my closets a week or so ago (one New Year's resolution checked off the list), my eye turned to the array of perfume bottles on a shelf. The Chanel No. 5 -- classic but a little old-fashioned; the lemon-ginger body spray -- too teenybopper.

It occurred to me I really like the way my husband smells. His Tiffany for Men is subtle and citrusy with a rich woody essence of sandalwood. Perfect! One more thing for the two of us to share!

Women who are looking for something a little crisper, a little less flowery, should try shopping the men's toiletries aisle. There are some terrific finds there, and writer Janet Kinosian gives us the rundown on some favorite his-for-her scents in a piece she did for the Los Angeles Times' Image section: "10 men's fragrances that women love — for themselves."

Creed's Silver Mountain Water, Guerlain Vertiver, Eau d'Hadrien are among the temptations. I'll have to try them all. But until then -- dear, could you pass me the Tiffany?

-- Susan Denley

 Photo: Silver Mountain Water. Credit: Creed

 

Your morning fashion and beauty report: 'Daring Diva' Rihanna, Jennifer Aniston, Kate Middleton among names on best-dressed lists

-- People magazine is looking back over the year and has picked its 10 most stylishly dressed celebs. Making the best-dressed list: Jennifer Aniston (dubbed the American Classic), Rihanna (the Daring Diva), Jessica Alba (the Mix Master), Lea Michele (the It Girl), Zoe Saldana (Red Carpet Queen), Gwen Stefani (Rocker Mom), Kate Middleton (Princess in Waiting), Rachel Bilson (Denim Darling), Olivia Palermo (Uptown Girl) and Diane Kruger (Runway Renegade). Cute categories, though Kate Middleton's says more about her state-of-being than fashion. What do you think? Are these ladies the right choices?  [People]

-- Across the pond, fashion watchers are reviewing British trendsetter Alexa Chung's best looks of the year. [Telegraph]

-- But Fashionista has gone all out, picking its 30 best dressed of the year. Yep, 30! (The list includes many of the ladies listed above.) It's been a very fashionable year, the editors say. [Fashionista]

Now back to the nitty-gritty: As the year wanes, lots of deals are being struck in the fashion world. 

-- The bankrupt denim purveyor Rock & Republic has been acquired  by VF Corp. for a reported $57 million.  [WWD] (subscription required)

-- Meanwhile Nordstrom has acquired a stake in children's retailer Peek...Aren't You Curious [WWD] and Chinese menswear powerhouse Trinity Ltd. has agreed to take over fashion house Cerruti. [WWD] (subscription required)

-- Everybody's diversifying. Designer Roberto Cavalli announced plans to open 15 clubs and five cafes in cities around the world [InStyle] while jeweler Boucheron has signed a fragrance licensing deal with Inter Parfums SA. [WWD] (subscription required)  

-- Prada announced plans to stage a fashion show in Beijing [WWD] and American Eagle is set to open stores in Japan [WWD], showing that the lure of markets in the East is growing ever more powerful. 

-- Susan Denley

Photo: 'Daring Diva' Rihanna looked every inch the part at this year's American Music Awards.  Credit: Mike Nelson / EPA