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All the Rage

Category: New York Fashion Week

NYFW Fall 2012: Prabal Gurung's otherworldly garden of delights


In just three years, Prabal Gurung has emerged as one of the most exciting designers on the New York fashion scene. He has a flair for drama that is almost unrivaled on the American fashion stage. And this season, he did not disappoint, showing an otherwordly garden of delights in techno fabrics combined with luxe printed silks and Lesage embroideries, to a packed house that included actress Zoe Saldana, DJ Mia Moretti and model Coco Rocha.


From the opening looks -- all-black sculpted capes, neoprene trousers and patent leather peplum jackets with edgy cuts, worn with geometric-shaped sunglasses and leather visors -- there seemed to be some sci-fi inspiration. And there was, of sorts. Gurung said backstage that he was inspired by the creation of the blue rose, once unattainable in nature, which was successfully engineered in a Japanese laboratory in 2009 after 20 years of research.

The duality of roses, both precious and mundane, natural and engineered, inspired Gurung's choice of materials, which ranged from three-dimensional crystal rose beadwork, shredded chiffon and metallic brocades, to iridescent rainbow neoprene, metallic tinsel and molded vinyl. Prabalcollage2

An engineered blue and white steer's head print (kind of O'Keefe-meets-outer space) emblazoned a silk wool cutaway blazer and flared trousers, and iridescent "oil spill" neoprene panels embellished a black neoprene wool flare coat. An ivory tulle gown with tulle insets was festooned with gold Rococo-style threadwork, sequins and ostrich feathers, and an ivory tulle sleeveless top and skirt embroidered with shredded chiffon, blue vinyl loops and feathers. 

This was Prabal Gurung to the max, an incredible show of imagination, craftsmanship and red carpet candy for that special star who can pull it off.

And there's more excitement to come from Gurung this week, when he launches ICB, a new, lower-priced collection. 


New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Prabal Gurung

New York Fashion Week Fall 2011: Prabal Gurung

-- Booth Moore in New York

Top photos: Prabal Gurung's Fall 2012 collection. Credit: Andy Kropa/Getty Images.

Middle photos, left to right: Michelle Harper at the show. Rabbani and Solimene Photography/Getty Images. Zoe Saldana; DJ Mia Moretti at the show. Credit: Amy Sussman/Getty Images.

Bottom photos: Prabal Gurung's Fall 2012 collection. Stephen Chernin/AP.

Rock & Republic for Kohl's fits like a pair of skinny jeans


Rock and Republic for Kohl's


Rock & Republic, once stocked in upscale department stores like Bloomingdale's, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, is back on store shelves this month -- exclusively at Kohl's -- and based on the selection sent down the runway at a press unveiling Friday, the once high-flying premium label and the value-priced retailer fit like that favorite pair of skinny jeans.

Among the women's offerings sent down the pocket-sized runway were sequined camis ($48), stud-embellished tank tops ($44 ) dresses ($70) and heels ($74.99) and denim bottoms that ranged from cuffed utility shorts ($72) to curve-hugging flare-legged jeans ($80). The men's collection didn't stray

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New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Gregory Parkinson

Gregory Parkinson's fall 2012 collection at New York Fashion Week

Photographs don't do justice to the gorgeous textures, colors and fabrications in Gregory Parkinson's fall collection. Copper and gold Lurex were shot through multicolored wool, mesh and tulle, combined with multiple layers of lace, cut velvet and knitted fur to stunning effect. 

And the process did not overwhelm the pieces. In other words, Parkinson was able to distill this incredible explosion of color and craft into pieces that can be incorporated seamlessly into a woman's wardrobe: cropped jackets, gauzy T-shirts, fitted dresses and open-weave shrug vests, all with the softness and ease of your favorite sweater.

Parkinson, who lives in Los Angeles and dresses the likes of the first lady, focused on trousers, too, including one elegant riff on a tuxedo pant with a contrasting brocade side stripe. The trousers were relaxed at the top, tapered and cropped at the ankle over the colorful Manolo Blahnik suede sandals made especially for the show. Mirrored, hand-blown glass necklaces, pins and pendants by TenThousandThings, and Garbo-esque hair and makeup completed the elegantly disheveled bohemian look.

Gregory Parkinson's fall 2012 collection at New York Fashion Week

The whole effect was rich, rich, rich, but Parkinson said he was actually able to use some of the same fabrics from this collection in his lower-priced line for the chain store Anthropologie, which will debut in April. Can't wait to see that!


Gregory Parkinson's winning style

Fashion Diary: It's L.A. designers' time to shine

-- Booth Moore in New York

Photos: Gregory Parkinson's fall 2012 collection. Credit: Raymond Chan

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Rag & Bone


Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are proving to be a formidable force on the New York fashion scene. Their fall collection was English countryside-meets-the-Raj, with layers upon layers of rich-looking pieces with must-touch textures, plus all the must-have accessories (those herringbone platform riding boots! That sculptural leather collar piece!) that keep fans coming back to the brand.

There were striped blanket coats worn over schoolboy blazers and jodhpurs fastened with trooper belts; shearling vests over tweed wrap skirts and chunky legwarmers, herringbone sweater dresses shot through with copper Lurex thread, and genius-looking black crochet lace "doti" pants and sweaters to layer even more. 


Rag & Bone is definitely on an upward trajectory. In an partnership that speaks to the cool factor of their brand, AT&T and Samsung Mobile sponsored the men's and women's runway shows, and tapped Wainwright and Neville to help launch the new Samsung Galaxy Note smartphone* hitting stores Feb. 19. 
Models weren't carrying the tablets down the runway or anything like that, but the Rag & Bone designers did create a special case for the device, and they will co-host a party at New York Fashion Week on Tuesday for the launch.  

Rag & Bone started as a denim line in 2002, and has since expanded to include men's and women's wear and accessories in the contemporary fashion category, with most items priced less than $1,500. Rag & Bone has boutiques in New York and Washington, D.C. Hopefully, the next stop will be L.A.!

*UPDATED 02/11/2012 at 9:49 p.m. In an earlier version of this post, we referred to the Samsung Galaxy Note as a tablet. It is actually a smartphone with tablet capabilities.


New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Jason Wu

New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Rag & Bone

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Juan Carlos Obando

-- Booth Moore

Photos: Looks from the Rag & Bone women's runway collection shown Thursday during New York Fashion Week: Credit: Andrew Burton / Associated Press

New York Fashion Week: Gilded Age, Duckie Brown and Libertine

Gilded Age Duckie Brown and Libertine

This post has been updated and corrected. See the note below for details.

The first handful of fall and winter 2012 menswear shows and presentations at New York Fashion Week were a mixed bag.

First out of the gate, on Wednesday, was Gilded Age, with a collection inspired by the early years of motorcycle racing, which, in addition to a range of beautifully distressed and weathered looking leather jackets, included hand-sanded and overdyed selvage denim, chunky sweaters and biker-worthy T-shirts.

But the big news for the brand, founded by principal director and creative director Stefan Miljanic, was the addition of footwear to mix, with Gilded Age's take on classic American boot styles being handmade in Missouri as part of an ongoing collaboration with Chippewa Boots. (Because the co-branded footwear wasn't ready in time for the Feb. 8 presentation, Ugg Australia stepped in to provide shoes for the models.)

More collaboration news wasn't far behind. On Thursday, less than an hour before Duckie Brown's runway show took place, Perry Ellis International announced that a collaborative effort with the Duckie duo of Gilded Age X Chippewa BootsSteven Cox and Daniel Silver, called Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown, will make its debut at September's round of New York Fashion Week shows, and hit retail for spring 2013. It marks the first apparel collaboration for both companies, though Duckie Brown has had a long-running hit with co-branded Florsheim footwear.

But Duckie Brown's fall and winter 2012 runway collection was all them. Dubbed "Super Duckie," it served up super-sized, side-pleated trousers; trim, tailored, double-breasted jackets; slouchy sweaters; and chunky caps. The collection was heavy on the herringbones, Donegal tweeds and buffalo checks with a color palette rooted in black and shades of gray with the occasional accent of orange of purple, most notable in an exploded plaid pattern overcoat. The combination of the voluminous silhouette and gray plaid pattern gave several pieces a pajamas-as-streetwear vibe, an effect only heightened by the Edward Scissorhands bedhead hairstyles supported by many of the models.

Libertine, which sent men's and women's looks down the runway, applied a liberal dose of pailletes, sequins and dime-sized, flat-head studs to both. The men's side of the collection included a range of vintage-looking outerwear pieces -- varsity jackets, leather motorcycle jackets, overcoats and blazers embellished with embroidery, the aforementioned studding or a stippled ombre effect. 

But it was the women's pieces that were the most memorable -- and labor intensive -- with delicate black lace dresses, paillette tree branches snaking across blouses and dress sleeves, and lots of outerwear pieces studded with hardware.


New York Fashion Week: Gilded Age takes flight

New York Fashion Week: It's twist and slouch at Duckie Brown

New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2011: Libertine back on the scene

-- Adam Tschorn

Top photos: Menswear looks from the fall and winter 2012 runway collections of, Gilded Age, left, Duckie Brown, center, and Libertine, shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Neilson Barnard / Getty Images

Bottom photo: Ugg Australia's Hannen workboot as worn by a model at the Gilded Age presentation. Credit: Adam Tschorn / Los Angeles Times

[For the record, 8:42 a.m. Feb. 13: An earlier version of this post identified the brand of footwear in a photograph as Chippewa Boots. The brand was Ugg Australia.] 

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Kate Spade


Designer Deborah Lloyd has really injected new energy and fun into the Kate Spade brand. For fall, she was inspired by French gamines hangin' in the courtyard at the Palais Royale in Paris.

That translated into a bright color story with lots of graphic touches, including the print on a full skirt spelling out "toutes les filles sont folles" (all the girls are mad), designed by blogger, fashion illustrator and photographer Garance Dore.Dotnails

One of the key looks in the collection was a pair of blazing orange pants cropped over polka dot heels, and worn with an aqua-colored cardigan. The colorful cropped pants-over-heels look is one that all the fashion girls are already wearing , and apparently, it's going to have legs!

There were lots of cute extras, too -- jeweled Peter Pan collars, a puff of a marabou feather purse and sparkling fishnet tights. And the polka dot manicures were genius.

-- Booth Moore


Fashion Diary: It's L.A. designers' time to shine

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Corey Lynn Calter

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Juan Carlos Obando

Photos: Looks form Kate Spade's fall-winter 2012 collection. Credit: Astrid Stawiarz / Getty Images

Los Angeles designers make splash at New York Fashion Week


New York Fashion Week kicked off this week with more than 300 scheduled presentations for the media and retail buyers. The biannual event is a showcase not only for designers and labels based in the Big Apple, but for those from around the world.

And this year, especially, for those from Los Angeles. The Times' fashion critic Booth Moore says in a story for this Sunday's Image section that L.A.'s designers have grown beyond the decades-old stereotype: casual clothes involving surf or skates and a laid-back attitude. Now they are known for polished, sophisticated designs worthy of the world stage, and many of them are unveiling their collections for this fall in New York.

Of course, the West Coast is the capital of denim, as writer Adam Tschorn reminds in the same section. But now even our denim purveyors, such as Levi Strauss, 7 For All Mankind, Rock & Republic and Hudson Jeans, are showing their wares on New York runways and at other New York events, right alongside the more glamorous luxury labels.

It seems like we're in for quite a fashion week. And you can follow Moore and Tschorn's musings on our All the Rage blog as they go from one event to another over the next few days.


PHOTOS: New York Fashion Week fall 2012

All the latest from New York Fashion Week

Scarlett Johansson, Anna Wintour step out to support Obama 2012

--Susan Denley 

Photo: Models wearing Corey Lynn Calter pose for a photo during Corey Lynn Calter's presentation in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Pier 59 Studios on Feb. 8 in New York City. Credit: Joe Kohen /Getty Images.

New York Fashion Week 2012: Juan Carlos Obando


Designer Juan Carlos Obando, who lives in Los Angeles, has been on a roll lately. Viola Davis wore his fuchsia halter dress to the Oscar nominees luncheon the other day. And Arianne Phillips, nominated for an Oscar in the costume design category for her work on "W.E." told me at Obando's runway show that he will be making her gown for Oscar night.Floral

On the runway, Obando wasn't afraid to show styles that are similar to what he's done before. Fluttery, bias-cut, silk chiffon dresses in dynamite bright colors are a signature for him, so why not show them off? This season, they came in chartreuse, peony pink and orange crush with assymetrical or fishtail hems adding an interesting twist to the silhouettes. The addition of streamer-like scarves made for a wonderfully graphic statement as models walked down the runway.

In keeping with his flair for unique craftsmanship, Obando brought a beautifully distressed look to the floral crystal embroidery on satin dresses and jackets by dousing the embroidery in vinegar, ripping it apart and sewing it back together to create the imperfect perfect detail.


The day wear had a lightness similar to the evening wear, from a featherweight puffer vest that seemed to glow from the inside to a fluidly draped, black-and-white skirt that captured the essence of motion. Knotted crystal rope necklaces grounded the looks.

Everyone went crazy for the fur motocross jackets and were shocked to learn afterward that they are faux. Obando said he had been developing the faux fur pieces for more than a year with a German mill. He wanted furs that were all different colors, and he got them. The most fabulous jacket of the bunch came in a tonal color block. Well done.

-- Booth  Moore


New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012: Juan Carlos Obando

Photos of Juan Carlos Obando's fall/winter 2012 collection. Credit: Dario Cantatore / Getty Images. 

New York Fashion Week 2012: Kimberly Ovitz

Kimberly Ovitz shows a dark and stormy collection at New York Fashion Week

Bright color is a huge trend for the coming spring-summer 2012 season, and it's been fun to watch the fashionistas at the runway shows in New York trying to incorporate sunny shades into their nearly all-black winter wardrobes.

J. Crew creative director Jenna Lyons

Usually, they pick one colorful piece -- a pair of pants, for example, or a bright yellow purse, like the one J. Crew creative director Jenna Lyons (at right) carried to a show Thursday. It stuck out like a neon sign against her fur capelet and black pencil skirt, and it looked great.

From the first few seconds of the soundtrack (Nancy Sinatra's "Bang Bang"), it was clear Kimberly Ovitz wouldn't be doing the happy-color thing. This was a dark and stormy affair inspired by Samurai warriors and African tribal costumes, and it was powerfully elegant, with the fringed yarn details on one short black dress, and the knotted, embroidery and fringe on another calling to mind flappers by way of "Mad Max."

This collection was a huge leap forward for Ovitz, with lots of incredible details, and a complete range of offerings. 

Other standouts: a moto jacket with a ribbed knit zip-off hem, a shaggy cowl neck sweater and slouchy black pants with an amazing-looking fringed leather apron worn over top. 

Kimberly Ovitz shows a dark and stormy collection at New York Fashion Week

The fringe, it turns out, was human hair. "Horse hair didn't move right," Ovitz said. "It's kind of gross, but I figured people weave it into their hair all the time when they get hair extensions."

True, true.

-- Booth Moore in New York


New York Fashion Week: Kimberly Ovitz and that Lindsay Lohan dress

Top and bottom photos: Kimberly Ovitz's fall-winter 2012 collection. Credit: Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images

Center photo: Jenna Lyons. Credit: Booth Moore

New York Fashion Week 2012: Corey Lynn Calter


The fall/winter 2012 runway show season started with a joyous jolt of color from Corey Lynn Calter. The designer, who lives in Los Angeles, said she was inspired by light and positivity. The collection was full of easy, tailored separates in light brights, including a rust, button-front pencil skirt worn and floral print T-shirt, lace skinny pants with a lemon yellow short-sleeve coat, and an ombre sequin stripe shift dress in sunset tones.

More louche looks included a rainbow stripe shirt-dress and clashing geometric-print palazzo pants. Sparrow bird intarsia knits, color-blocked Peter Pan blouses and colorful iPad cases added to the prissy, grown-up schoolgirl vibe. (Attention "Glee" costume designer Lou Eyrich, you might want to check out Calter's clothes for the lovable priss Emma Pillsbury.) 

Calter's collection packed a lot of punch for the price. It will retail for $150 to $500.

-- Booth Moore from New York


Fantastical art and fashion abound at LAXART Ball of Artists

Beauty Bag: Corey Lynn Calter's must-have makeup picks

Photos of Corey Lynn Calter's Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Credit: Joe Kohen/Getty Images for Corey Lynn Calter.


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