Musings on the culture of keeping up appearances

All the Rage

Category: New York Fashion Week

NYFW Fall 2012 review: Tory Burch's rich clothes for the rest of us

Tory Burch
With contemporary collections as upscale-looking and lavishly detailed as Tory Burch's, who needs to pay top dollar for fashion? That was what was going through my mind when I watched her polished fall runway show, full of embroidered ladylike tweed jackets and skirts, tulle and chiffon dresses with organza flower appliques, crinkled leather jackets, and structured frame bags with plastic flower and tortoise details. 

Tory Burch
Speaking of details, there was a lot of eye candy for a song -- rows of pearls on the collar and cuffs of a cardigan jacket and matching pencil skirt with organza eyelet hem, jeweled flower buttons on a gold lamé coat and sequins dusting a houndstooth plaid skirt. (Most of Burch's clothes are in the $295 to $895 range, well below the high-end designer price point, and women seem to appreciate the level of fashion they get for the money.)

Burch has proved over the last two seasons of showing on the runway that her range extends far beyond the graphic prints, and boho prep 1960s and '70s influences that she started with in 2004. She has forged a powerful new identity for her brand as a go-to for everything from suits to understated evening dresses to luxe accessories. 

And watching all the editors and fans from around the world file into the runway show venue, Tory Burch logo bags in hand, it was clear that the cult of Tory is just beginning. 

-- Booth Moore in New York  


New York Fashion Week Spring 2012 Review: Tory Burch

Not only is Tory Burch unafraid of competition, she nurtures it

All photos of Tory Burch's fall 2012 collection by Mike Coppola/Getty Images, except bottom right by Stephen Chernin/Associated Press.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012 Review: Rodarte's land far, far away

At the Rodarte show
When George Lucas says he's a fan, you know you're someone special. The legendary "Star Wars" creator was front and center at the Rodarte show Tuesday, where he said he had been following the sisters Mulleavy, who hail from Pasadena, for a while now, and that he is obsessed with their work.


Natalie Portman and Dakota Fanning rounded out the celebrity triumvirate on hand to view the designers' extraordinary fall collection, which Laura Mulleavy said was inspired by the multi-layered history of Australia.

Their vision spanned the landscape, from the rustic Outback (a shearling dress, and clear plastic heels filled with layers of sand) to the stately aristocratic Victorian homes left over from the colonial era (dusty peach and blue wool guipure lace blouses, and crepe jackets and skirts that were among the most conventionally wearable pieces they have ever sent down the runway). Aboriginal cave paintings were represented in rust finger smudge and hand-print crinkled chiffon gowns, and so was Australia's big sky, by star cluster head pieces.

Rodarte's sand shoe
The Mulleavys fessed up backstage that they have never been to Australia, which is crazy considering how transporting the collection was. It's easy to see why Lucas is so enamored of their imagination and their talents. He, too, has a knack for bringing to life lands far, far away.

-- Booth Moore, in New York

Top photos, from left: Dakota Fanning, George Lucas and Natalie Portman attend the Rodarte fall 2012 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Credit: Rabbani and Solimene Photography/Getty Images. Photos of the collection by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images, except for bottom right, by Jason DeCrowe/Associated Press.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012 Review: Marc Jacobs


Victoriana meets late-night rave. That was the mood of the Marc Jacobs fall 2012 runway show, a madcap fashion romp with a charming, childhood innocence, and a white enchanted forest set created by Rachel Feinstein. 

With Lionel Bart's soaring lyrics, "Who will buy this wonderful feeling? I'm so high, I swear I could fly!" from the musical "Oliver!" on the soundtrack, one couldn't help but imagine the models as chic street urchins and flower sellers, nannies and grannies, in outsized hats, color-saturated tinsel tweed frock coats and skirts, crocheted sweaters, argyle socks and pilgrim shoes with enormous rhinestone buckles.


The madcap combinations, clashing colors and prints, also called to mind the surging blogger class of fashion fan boys and girls, the Tavi Gevinson, Susie Bubble and Bryan Boys of the world, and their wide-eyed Hollywood compatriots, like Dakota Fanning, who was sitting front row. For that generation, fashion isn't so much about money and status as it is about personal peacockery, the louder the better.

There was nothing jaded here, just pure, unabashed fashion fun -- as if Jacobs was trying to remind us all of why we got into this business, because we love dressing up.


NYFW Spring 2012: Marc Jacobs

NYFW Fall 2012: Marlon Gobel rounds up the unusual suspects

NYFW Fall 2011: Marc Jacobs gives new meaning to cheap chic

-- Booth Moore in New York

Photos: Looks from the Marc Jacobs fall and winter 2012 runway show Monday in New York. Credit: Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Billy Reid's Southern sophistication

Billy Reid Fall Winter 2012

Billy Reid takes things up a notch for fall 2012 with a dressy -- dare we say elegant -- men's and women's collection.

Reid's East Coast graduate-student-by-way-of-Alabama aesthetic is still very much at the heart of the collection, but this season seems to have taken a semester of finishing school across the pond and come back a bit more genteel.

Which is just about the way it happened, says the designer who was inspired by recent travels abroad. "I spent some great time in Paris and London this past year," Reid writes in the show notes. "And I've thoroughly enjoyed mixing that vibe into the collection.” 

The shift was most notable on the men's side, with three-piece suits in heathered gray cashmere tweed, double-breasted suits in navy blue cashmere flannel, and jackets and trousers in cotton velvet. The outerwear was equally upscale with parkas lined in sheared nutria and trench coats and leather vests sporting shearling collars.

The women's collection, which has always been a bit dressier than the men's, felt downright sophisticated; belted shearling ponchos paired with floppy wide-brimmed Albertus Swanepoel hats, navy twill sport coats and blue Oxford shirts paired with leather skirts, and a side-tie trench coat with fox fur collar layered over a silk jacquard cocktail dress.

The collection's color palette was based in muted beige, brown and gray shot through with blue hues. The most eye-catching was a head-to-toe women's look -- a belted blazer, flared flannel trousers and a blouse -- in a vivid shade of cobalt blue.

Billy Reid FW12 runway 2


NYFW Fall 2012: Band of Outsiders

Runway Rundown: Billy Reid spring 2012

Billy Reid wins 2010 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award

-- Adam Tschorn in New York

Photos: Looks from the fall 2012 Billy Reid runway show Friday in New York. Credit: Joe Kohen / Getty Images

New York Fashion Week Review Fall 2012: Diane von Furstenberg

As president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Diane von Furstenberg is New York Fashion Week's unofficial hostess. So naturally, her front row is a who's who of the fashion and media worlds, from hubbie Barry Diller to Anderson Cooper, Barbara Walters, Diane Sawyer, Oscar de la Renta, Solange Knowles, Molly Sims, Rachel Zoe and on and on.

Her fall show, dubbed "Rendez-Vous" or "a meeting with suspense and expectation," was all about glamour at a moment's notice. With her lifetime of jet-setting and brand building, that is something Von Furstenberg certainly knows about.

The designer reinterpreted her famous wrap dress as a kind of wrap jumpsuit with a plunging front. It came in several iterations, but one of the prettiest was a pink lily color, worn with a port red coat. Bright hues have been a fashion trend for a couple of seasons now, but Von Furstenberg made color theory an art form with the styling of this collection, pairing a citrus lime satin halter top with a pair of beet red trousers for example, and a cerulean blue, drapey sleeveless top tucked into a scarlet red crepe pencil skirt.


Of course, when it comes to preparing for a potential rendezvous, every woman should have a little black dress in her arsenal. And there were plenty here -- shimmering with sequins, shimmying with chain fringe, or scattered with puzzle-piece-shaped chiffon appliques. Accessories, including clutches with lip-shaped clasps, and heart-shaped minaudieres, added to the romantic intrigue. 


New York Fashion Week Review Fall 2012: Prabal Gurung

New York Fashion Week Review Fall 2012: Alexander Wang

New York Fashion Week Review Spring 2012: Diane Von Furstenberg

-- Booth Moore in New York

Photos: Looks from Diane von Furstenberg's New York Fashion Week show Sunday at Lincoln Center. Credit: Frazer Harrison / Getty Images

NYFW Fall 2012: Marlon Gobel rounds up the unusual suspects

  Marlon Gobel Fall Winter 2012

If Marlon Gobel's fall and winter 2012 collection, titled "The Heist," was a quick smash-and-grab engineered to steal our attention, consider it a caper that went off as planned.

It took place in broad daylight, against the backdrop of the polished stone mezzanine level of Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center, with models entering and exiting the runway via escalator.

Inspired by such well-heeled n'er-do-wells such as Thomas Crown, the Kray twins and Bonnie & Clyde, Gobel filled his catwalk -- which had been cordoned off with the kind of red velvet ropes found in only the finest banks -- with "bullet-dented" suits covered in dime-sized depressions and razor-sharp tuxedos, capes and blazers adorned with a vault's worth of gold braiding, silver buttons and crystal trim.

There was a protective element to the collection that went beyond the visual punchline of the Swarovski-encrusted body armor (which would be perfect for SWAT formals, by the way), with safety

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New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Rag & Bone menswear

 Rag & Bone's fall 2012 menswear collection has the same "English countryside-meets-the-Raj" aesthetic as the women's wear offerings do -- plus a good dose of military influence

Rag & Bone's fall and winter 2012 menswear may have been sent down a runway of its own, but there's no denying its inspiration was in step with that of the women's collection, which Times' fashion critic Booth Moore described as "English-countryside meets-the-Raj" in a recent post.

That vibe was grafted onto the subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) military influences that designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville favor for the brand's menswear. The result was a runway collection of bundled-up and brooding military officers, ready to wage all-out war on the incoming cold front.

That meant blanket-heavy multi-striped great coats and sweaters, waxed cotton peacoats and herringbone topcoats with leather collars, an ikat pattern that appeared in blue or black in skinny chinos and blazers, and billowy, drop-crotch "singh" trousers.

The color palette was grounded in blacks, grays and an assortment of military blues, with the occasional piece in a burgundy wine shade, with accent colors of red appearing in blanket stripes and jacket linings, and, in a couple of pieces including a waistcoat, blazer and pair of chinos, with a subtle but eye-catching black-and-red degradé effect.

Rag & Bone's fall 2012 menswear collection has the same "English countryside-meets-the-Raj" aesthetic as the women's wear offerings do -- plus a good dose of military influence


New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Rag & Bone

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Alexander Wang

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Band of Outsiders

-- Adam Tschorn in New York

Photos: Looks from the Rag & Bone menswear runway collection, shown on Feb. 10 during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images

Fashion News: Grammys 2012 showed glamour with a touch of wack

Katy Perry
The red carpet at Grammys 2012 on Sunday had its share of glamour but mixed in some wackiness too, our Melissa Magsaysay reports. Think of Katy Perry's aquamarine Elie Saab gown, with her hair dyed to match, or Nicki Minaj's ruby-red Atelier Versace nun's habit. [Los Angeles Times]

Juicy Couture has named David Bassuk co-president of the brand, for which he previously served as a consultant. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

Uniqlo is developing a line of tennis wear with one of the sports' rising stars, Kei Nishikori. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

Los Angeles-based Rodarte plans to unveil its first shoe collection during its New York Fashion Week show on Tuesday.  [The Cut]

Follow our All the Rage blog for coverage of New York Fashion Week from Los Angeles Times Fashion Critic Booth Moore and reporter Adam Tschorn.

First Lady Michelle Obama wore a blue floral dress from the Jason Wu for Target collection when she visited a family in Florida over the weekend. [The Cut]

Michelle Williams wore a bespoke gown by retailer H&M to the BAFTAS over the weekend. [Telegraph]

"The Artist" mopped up awards at the event. [Los Angeles Times]

Forget celebrity performers (like Justin Bieber and Nicki Minaj) — now fashion designers Prabal Gurung, Betsey Johnson and Peter Som are all doing nail-polish collaborations. [Racked]


Photos: Best and the rest of Grammy Awards' fashion

Solange Knowles: A style star is born

Oscars' favorite costumes up close at FIDM


— Susan Denley

Photo: Katy Perry in Elie Saab gown and dyed-to-match hair at the Grammy Awards 2012. Credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times

New York Fashion Week fall 2012: Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang
For fall, Alexander Wang seemed to be out to prove that he has grown-up and can be the man to outfit women from desk to dawn, not just nightcrawling twentysomethings.

He stayed true to one of his favorite inspirations -- hybrids -- and played with the contrast between hard and soft, naughty and nice. But these were undoubtedly more grown-up clothes, albeit with a twist. Tweed coats and boxy jackets came vinyl-coated, and chunky handknit cardigans and crewnecks were lacquered stiff. Slouchy crepe trousers with leather panels on the front of the legs were a new take on the ubiquitous leather pant, while wool turtlenecks were rendered in naughty fishnet, and hooded puffer vests in black leather.

Alexander Wang
There was a mix of materials on dresses and skirts, a draped jersey and paneled leather T-shirt dress for example, and a white long-sleeve dress with embroidered thread trapped inside layers of tulle.  

Despite the dramatic ending to the show, which had Gisele and other top models marching out onto the stage, taking their places in front of mirrors on the runway, and ripping their fishnet masks off in unison, this collection was more about subtle details than any Wang has done before. Which is why it was a shame that the poor lighting in the venue made it so difficult to see them.

Another thing I missed this season was Wang's sense of humor. No cheeky piercings or mud flap details to be found in these clothes. Boo-hoo. Please Alex, just don't grow up too much!


Alexander Wang, in the fast crowd

Prabal Gurung's garden of earthly delights

New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Alexander Wang

-- Booth Moore, from New York

Photos, from top: Alexander Wang's fall 2012 collection. Credits, from left: Charles Sykes/Associated Press; Stephen Chernin/AP; Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images.

Bottom photos: Stephen Chernin/AP; Stephen Chernin/AP; Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Band of Outsiders

Band of Outsiders Fall Winter 2012
"Go West, young man," the bit of Manifest Destiny advice attributed to Horace Greeley, seemed to be resonating with Band of Outsiders creative director Scott Sternberg whose collection headed due West -- and jogged South across the border -- for Fall and Winter 2012.

"Yes, it's the Great Plains and the great West, and a little bit of Mexico City," Sternberg said post-show. "So it's kind of spaghetti western. For the men, especially, it was definitely time to go to that sort of western place."

And go there he did, mixing degradé hickory stripe denim trousers, zip-front hoodies with Cowichan style patterns and cotton and leather duster coats and leather work boots in with the more prep-inspired Oxford shirts, corduroy trousers, double-breasted sweater blazers and peacoats.

The two women's collections, Boy by Band of Outsiders and Girl by Band of Outsiders stayed with that theme albeit a shade more subtly. For Girl that meant filling the runway with prairie-appropriate wool gauze dresses, boiled wool blanket coats and silk chiffon blouses covered in various rosebud prints, with a feather print cropping up several denim pieces and silk blouses as well.

Although the Boy collection seemed more content to stay back in the big city and play dress up, it actually managed to move into new territory by offering a selection of evening wear -- an area the women's side of the brand hasn't explored as much. 

Memorable pieces included elegant fox fur scarves and vests, silk crepe de chine and silk satin shawl collared dresses and jumpsuits and the suspender halter-top silk crepe de chine dress (paired with leather work boots) that closed the show.

Both the men's and women's collections included several versions of the one-piece work suit -- versions of which seem to pop up on the runways every once in awhile. Sternberg's take, some in the aforementioned hickory stripe denim, others in feather-print denim managed to actually look wearable. In fact Sternberg himself was wearing one when we caught up with him after the show. 

"It's so comfortable I never want to get out of it," he told us, before explaining that the inspiration for the one-piece came from his research. "It's a traditional work suit I saw in photographs by Sebastião Salgado -- a photographer who took pictures of all those workers and who always seemed to come up [in my research]. And I just felt it was part of my cowboy."

We couldn't agree more.


New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: Band of Outsiders

Band of Outsiders presents Spring 2012 collections in Florence

New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Gilded Age, Duckie Brown and Libertine

-- Adam Tschorn in New York

Photos: Looks from the Band of Outsiders and Boy by Band of Outsiders runway collection, shown on February 11, 2012, during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Neilson Barnard / Getty Images



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