Musings on the culture of keeping up appearances

All the Rage

Category: L'Wren Scott

New York Fashion Week: Last but not least

Victoria The season in New York was largely about wearable sportswear. But there were a few notable exceptions.

I continue to be impressed by Victoria Beckham's dress collection, which is always so elegantly restrained and perfectly polished. (There is something to be said for zeroing in on one thing and doing it to the fullest.)

For several seasons now, much of what she has designed has been body-skimming, if not downright body-hugging. But Beckham loosened things up for spring, even using her own body to perfect the drape of a violet-colored parachute silk dress with a knotted detail.

As a red carpet regular, naturally Beckham has a flair for the dramatic. And indeed, a watery purple stripe jacquard bell-shaped dress would make quite an entrance, especially worn with a pair of cat-eye sunglasses from Beckham's eyewear collection.

But there was nothing too glitzy or obvious here. A stiff white "pigment print" organdy dress with a flared skirt was wonderfully simple. "The print was inspired by light sculpture," Beckham explained. "And we worked hard at maintaining the feather weight."

Not that everything was easy, breezy. A "Cadillac pink" shift dress that hit below the knee, with an asymmetrical neckline and exposed back zipper, was divinely fitted, sucking everything in with an interior corset.

She also used the runway to introduce her new line of handbags, including the covetable "Victoria," a boxy style with flaps that fold over each other at the top. It will be interesting to see if she gives up her Birkins for Beckhams.

Victoria Beckham spring - summer 2011 runway collection photo gallery

Lwren1 L'Wren Scott also went in a new direction, trading her inner rock chick for a free-spirited romantic.

Inspired by a trip to the Serengeti, she began with a strong case for barely-there dressing. White trousers and a sheer coat with the ease of sleepwear; a sheer gold-dot pajama-top-turned-jacket with the lace hem of a slipdress peeking out; and creamy white silk pajama pants worn with a gold embroidered kimono jacket were all perfect for a romp in the safari tent.

Lwren2 But quickly, almost too quickly, her heroine had returned to the city -- in a 1930s-looking peach dress with an asymmetrical scalloped hem, and a body-skimming peach pencil skirt, embroidered green velvet cutaway jacket and saffron blouse. (An unexpected color combo that was terrific.)

As day moved into night, the clothes took an even more ornamental turn, including a slinky gold satin dress with red embroidery down the sides, a degrade sequin sheath in sunset colors and a firecracker red embroidered floor length gown.

In the end, what started out as a beautiful story was hard to follow. A lot of lovely pieces, yes, but as a collection, they needed more to stitch them together.

L'Wren Scott spring-summer runway collection photo gallery

Jc Los Angeles-based Juan Carlos Obando turned up the heat on his business showing a collection of  evening wear that was elegant, but with a sexy edge.

He channeled a recent experience seeing the documentary "Hubble" at L.A.'s California Science Center, into the hand-dyed textiles for which he is known, creating nebulous patterns in colors of the deep, dark universe.

At times, Obando has suffered from tunnel vision. But this was a well-rounded collection, including slim sheaths, flirty fit-and-flare dresses, floor-sweeping gowns, sleek pants and fitted peplum jackets.

And there were details aplenty, from fraying cutouts edged in black Swarovski crystals, to contouring laces and exposed zippers.

Los Angeles shoe designer George Esquivel added to the fine show, creating uneven stacked heels that brought to mind the building blocks of the universe.

-- Booth Moore

JC Obando spring-summer 2011 runway collection photo gallery

Top photo: A dress from the Victoria Beckham spring-summer 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Frazer Harrison / Getty Images.

Middle photos: Looks from the L'Wren Scott spring-summer 2011 runway collectioni show during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Courtesy of L'Wren Scott.

Bottom photo: A look from the Juan Carlos Obando spring - summer 2011 line. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson & Peter Stigter / For The Times

Your morning fashion and beauty report: Britney Spears for Candie's. Forbes ranks most powerful celebs

Britney spears Hit me baby, one more time: Britney Spears' comeback move? The singer is designing for Candie's. [WWD]

Gisele narrowly beats Heidi in Forbes' list of most powerful celebrities, but Oprah is still queen. [Forbes]

L'Wren Scott launches a makeup line, chats about it. [The Daily Beast]

Naomi Campbell models a fur vest in New York's sweltering heat. [N.Y. Post]

Also, some speculation that she's losing her hair. [Daily Mail]

Jean-Paul Gaultier, Mr. Cone Bra himself, returns to lingerie. [StyleList]

The Parker Lewis in all of us is saddened by the death of Swatch founder Nicolas Hayek. [WSJ]

Whitney Port denies that MTV's evicting "The City." [Whitney Port]

Like Rihanna before her, Kristen Stewart adds some red highlights. [InStyle]

For the rich kids: Gucci unveils its children's clothing line. [Slaves to Fashion]

And for their moms: world's first £100,000  (about $122,000) gold and diamond bespoke stilettos. [Daily Mail]

What to look for when getting a gel manicure. [BellaSugar]

-- Whitney Friedlander

Photo: Britney Spears. Credit: Getty Images

New York Fashion Week: L'Wren Scott's 'Mad Men' style

Christina Hendricks was front and center at L'Wren Scott's show, and the voluptuous "Mad Men" star could well have been the designer's muse for this season's collection. (Hendricks wore a burgundy Scott dress to the Directors Guild Awards recently.) Gone were the long, lanky, rock star styles of Scott's past, and in their place was head-turning retro glamour of the red lipstick-wearing sort.

This collection also seemed to expand her range, suggesting that the stylist-turned-designer may be ready to cater to more than the cookie-cutter-stick-thin starlet.

On the runway, it was all about playing up the curves. Standout pieces included a pencil skirt worn with a frilly-collared red velvet jacket nipped in at the waist, a gray wool shift with black lace embroidery at the hem, and a purple tweed cutaway coat worn over wide trousers.

-- Booth Moore in New York


More photos from L'Wren Scott's fall 2010 runway

More from New York Fashion Week

Celeb sightings at fall 2010 New York Fashion Week

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Photos: Portions of L'Wren Scott's fall/winter 2010 collection. Credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times


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