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Category: Libertine

New York Fashion Week: Gilded Age, Duckie Brown and Libertine

Gilded Age Duckie Brown and Libertine

This post has been updated and corrected. See the note below for details.

The first handful of fall and winter 2012 menswear shows and presentations at New York Fashion Week were a mixed bag.

First out of the gate, on Wednesday, was Gilded Age, with a collection inspired by the early years of motorcycle racing, which, in addition to a range of beautifully distressed and weathered looking leather jackets, included hand-sanded and overdyed selvage denim, chunky sweaters and biker-worthy T-shirts.

But the big news for the brand, founded by principal director and creative director Stefan Miljanic, was the addition of footwear to mix, with Gilded Age's take on classic American boot styles being handmade in Missouri as part of an ongoing collaboration with Chippewa Boots. (Because the co-branded footwear wasn't ready in time for the Feb. 8 presentation, Ugg Australia stepped in to provide shoes for the models.)

More collaboration news wasn't far behind. On Thursday, less than an hour before Duckie Brown's runway show took place, Perry Ellis International announced that a collaborative effort with the Duckie duo of Gilded Age X Chippewa BootsSteven Cox and Daniel Silver, called Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown, will make its debut at September's round of New York Fashion Week shows, and hit retail for spring 2013. It marks the first apparel collaboration for both companies, though Duckie Brown has had a long-running hit with co-branded Florsheim footwear.

But Duckie Brown's fall and winter 2012 runway collection was all them. Dubbed "Super Duckie," it served up super-sized, side-pleated trousers; trim, tailored, double-breasted jackets; slouchy sweaters; and chunky caps. The collection was heavy on the herringbones, Donegal tweeds and buffalo checks with a color palette rooted in black and shades of gray with the occasional accent of orange of purple, most notable in an exploded plaid pattern overcoat. The combination of the voluminous silhouette and gray plaid pattern gave several pieces a pajamas-as-streetwear vibe, an effect only heightened by the Edward Scissorhands bedhead hairstyles supported by many of the models.

Libertine, which sent men's and women's looks down the runway, applied a liberal dose of pailletes, sequins and dime-sized, flat-head studs to both. The men's side of the collection included a range of vintage-looking outerwear pieces -- varsity jackets, leather motorcycle jackets, overcoats and blazers embellished with embroidery, the aforementioned studding or a stippled ombre effect. 

But it was the women's pieces that were the most memorable -- and labor intensive -- with delicate black lace dresses, paillette tree branches snaking across blouses and dress sleeves, and lots of outerwear pieces studded with hardware.

RELATED:

New York Fashion Week: Gilded Age takes flight

New York Fashion Week: It's twist and slouch at Duckie Brown

New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2011: Libertine back on the scene

-- Adam Tschorn

Top photos: Menswear looks from the fall and winter 2012 runway collections of, Gilded Age, left, Duckie Brown, center, and Libertine, shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Neilson Barnard / Getty Images

Bottom photo: Ugg Australia's Hannen workboot as worn by a model at the Gilded Age presentation. Credit: Adam Tschorn / Los Angeles Times

[For the record, 8:42 a.m. Feb. 13: An earlier version of this post identified the brand of footwear in a photograph as Chippewa Boots. The brand was Ugg Australia.] 

New York Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2011: Libertine back on the scene

Libmain1

After a two-year hiatus, the Los Angeles-based label Libertine was back on the runway, this time with only one of its original designers (Johnson Hartig) at the helm.

The label, founded in 2002, earned a reputation (and a group of dedicated fans, including Karl Lagerfeld), for screen-printing Victorian-style illustrations of pirate ships, pocket watches, skulls, et cetera,  onto vintage blazers and coats, then bedazzling them. (It was a style much imitated, all the way down to Forever 21.)

Libmain2

Well, the medium may be the same -- one-off vintage pieces -- but Hartig's approach now was decidedly different. The collection included ladylike swing coats, boxy jackets, pencil skirts, sheath dresses, hats, gloves and tights screen-printed with sketchy plaid paint in clashing electric blue, fluorescent pink, green and yellow. It was thrilling to watch these modern art canvases come down the runway. (It brought back memories of the color story in the spring Jil Sander collection.) And with so many high-end designers yet to confront the sustainability question, it was refreshing to see a designer up-cycling with such impressive results.

-- Booth Moore in New York 

Libertine Fall-Winter 2011 runway collection photo gallery

Photos: Looks from the Libertine Fall-Winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.

Paris perfumer Francis Kurkdjian bubbles up in Beverly Hills

Laura and Kate Mulleavy - designers for Rodarte

Any comedian or FedEx driver will tell you that delivery is important, but it's not something you think about when it comes to the olfactory arts. Perfumes are sprayed, incense is burned in sticks and laundry detergents seem to be required by law to smell like a test tube version of the great outdoors.

That's why last week's party at Johnson Hartig's house still lingers in the memory like a mysterious and beautiful woman whose name you can't recall but whose fragrance profile is destined to hover in the corners of your consciousness.

Continue reading »

NYFW: Libertine's 'Shining' moment

Rage_libertine_2 We’re not sure if it was the bitter cold of Manhattan or the idea of a writer going off the deep end with cabin fever, but for some reason it barely surprised us at all that the 1980 horror movie “The Shining" was referenced more than once during New York Fashion Week.

First, at Diesel Black Gold, snippets of movie dialogue were included (along with plaintive cat noises and bits from "Casablanca") that looped as the audience took their seats.
"What will you be drinking, sir?" asks the bartender in one such clip. "Hair of the dog that bit me, Lloyd," replies Jack Nicholson's character.

Then, in a lower Manhattan loft, past the palace guards in red jackets and towering bearskin hats at the elevators, perched on bales of hay were Libertine dresses screen printed with lions and crowd scenes inspired by scenes in the film of the same name.

"I'd never seen the movie before, and I ended up seeing it on a plane," Johnson Hartig told us. "And there was just something about it that inspired me." (Hartig is half of the duo behind the collection of mostly one-off pieces, Cindy Greene is the other.)Rage_libertine2

The macabre "Shining" references and T-shirt bearing the visage of Rasputin that Hartig was wearing notwithstanding, the collection was a brightly colored Anglo-inspired affair, with men's suits and women's blazers in rep stripe tie fabrics, chunky wool flowers and sweaters with intarsia duck hunting scenes.

The face of Queen Elizabeth II, dour lips pursed, adorned several pieces. Others had a "handsome man" print of a nondescript fellow with side-parted hair.

Overall, the artwork that adorned the Libertine collection were a bit softer, rounder and friendlier than the encyclopedic/maritime/cartographic imagery that's been a signature look for the line in past seasons, and been copied all the way down the retail food chain to Forever 21.

It was smart of the designers to switch things up by tapping Eric Ernest Johnson, an L.A. artist and long-time friend of Hartig’s (whose Hancock Park home is full of his artwork).

And there was something just optimistic enough about the overcoats and tweed dresses sprouting colorful hand-painted wool flowers, and the bright rep stripe suits to make us stop typing "All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy" on the manual typewriter of our mind, and realize a warm and sunny Los Angeles is only a few days away.

-- Adam Tschorn

Photos of Libertine's Fall/Winter 2009 collection collection. Photos by Robert Christensen


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