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Category: Givenchy

Fashion News: Alicia Keys, Sean Combs and Kanye West at Givenchy

AliciaKeysGivenchy

Maxime Simoens, 27, is the most recent designer to leave his post (a four-month stint designing for French fashion house Leonard) following a string of others including Stefano Pilati and Raf Simons. He's also the most recent talent rumored to be filling the Dior post. Could the young designer finally be the one everyone's been waiting for? WWD (subscription required), Fashionista Maximesimoens

Alber Elbaz celebrated 10 years at Lanvin with a party in Paris. Guests included Pharrell Williams and the always striking Tilda Swinton. Style.com

Speaking of celebrities seen at Paris Fashion Week, Sean Combs, Alicia Keys and Kanye West, a budding designer himself, sat front row at the Givenchy show on Sunday. Style.com

A study done in Britain shows that eating disorders can be linked to social and cultural influences, suggesting to some that advertisements and images featuring too-thin models should be banned by the government. Fashion Etc

L.A.-based label Equipment, maker of the beloved silk button-down shirts that fashion editors and insiders can't get enough of, is launching sweaters for fall. It presented a line of three basic silhouettes last week in Paris and will also expand on dresses and tweak its signature silk shirts into even more pared-down crew-neck tops. Elle

KanyeGivenchyActress and current face of Dior Mila Kunis has no doubt that she'll try face-filling injectables some day. People Style Watch

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-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos, from top: Alicia Keys attends the Givenchy ready-to-wear fall/winter show at Paris Fashion Week; French designer Maxime Simoens appears on the catwalk after presenting the Leonard collection; Kanye West at the Givenchy show. Credits: Pascal Le Segretain / Getty Images; Francois Mori / Associated Press; Pascal Le Segretain / Getty Images

Givenchy's Tisci teams up with Jay-Z and Kanye West

Throne 
While Kanye West is rumored to be putting the finishing touches on his first runway collection to show during New York Fashion Week, his pal Riccardo Tisci, creative director of Givenchy, is taking his skills to the music arena.

Tisci designed the album artwork, above, for "Watch the Throne," the upcoming collaborative album by West and Jay-Z debuting Aug. 1.

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Tisci has been exhibiting quite the artist's touch lately, designing the fierce-looking, repeating panther prints in the women's fall-winter 2011 collection, above right, and the slightly sinister-looking birds of paradise prints in the men's spring-summer 2012 collection, above left, shown in June. 

--Booth Moore

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Paris Fashion Week: Birds of paradise take flight at Givenchy

Paris Fashion Week: At Givenchy, catwomen on the prowl

Paris Fashion Week: Givenchy goes for Rottweilers on the runway

Top photo of Riccardo Tisci's album artwork for "Watch the Throne." Courtesy of Givenchy. Middle photos: A look from Givenchy's men's spring-summer 2012 show. Credit: Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty Images. A look from the Givenchy women's autumn-winter 2011 show. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter/For The Times.

Paris Fashion Week: Birds of paradise take flight at Givenchy

NewImage2 Riccardo Tisci wisely followed up last season's blackout-plagued dogfight of a collection by choosing to show his spring and summer 2012 collection in a glass-walled space at the Pompidou Center that was flooded with natural daylight.

The mood of the collection was considerably lighter as well. The aggressive, foreboding imagery of snarling Rottweilers, sharp-toothed clowns and leopard prints of the last two seasons had given way to a kinder, gentler Givenchy collection -- one with a bird of paradise floral motif.

The sharp, distinctive shape of the strelitzia, rendered in orange, purple, pink and green, appeared against backgrounds of ivory, pale green and white, on a range of garments including suits, shorts, T-shirts, kilts and baseball caps, accessorized with white lanyards hung around the neck and plastic sandals on the feet.  

But it didn't take long to realize these were no ordinary birds of paradise; there was something almost ominous about them and their scissorlike appendages, and some versions were so NewImage1 architectural and severe they looked like they could be used in a side-street knife fight -- and give you the edge.

And Tisci didn't just slap the same screenprinted images across the whole collection either, each piece of floral art was crafted specifically for the garment it appeared on -- some were screenprinted, others were hand-painted, and still others were enbroidered, beaded or created out of painted sequins.

Trouble in paradise? Maybe.

But it looks better than it has in a long time.

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At Givenchy, catwomen on the prowl

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Leopard spots and clown prints by Givenchy give guys a backbone

 -- Adam Tschorn, reporting from Paris

Photos: Looks from the Givenchy spring / summer 2012 collection shown during Paris Fashion Week. Credit: Francois Guillot / AFP/Getty Images

 

Paris Fashion Week: At Givenchy, catwomen on the prowl

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Riccardo Tisci is another designer for whom the buzz is becoming deafening. In his six years at Givenchy, Tisci's RTW shows have been hit or miss. But he's been on an upward climb over the last year, thanks to two stellar couture collections and impressive red carpet hits. For the Academy Awards, his gown for Cate Blanchett was among the most interesting of the night.

Add to that a robust accessories business, with the "Nightingale" still holding onto It bag status, and you can see why Tisci is riding high.

Now, he's short-listed as a successor to Galliano at Dior. So, understandably, this collection was an important one.

He scaled back the number of guests and cleaned up the set, decorating the runway with romantic purple floral arches. And then, with a piercing roar over the sound system, out came his most commercial collection yet.

The runway was crawling with cats, as the black panther head on the invitation was incorporated into colorful, Baroque-looking jungle prints, on dresses, pencil skirts, crystal-embroidered blouses with tidy collars and crew-neck pullovers with gold zipper details at the shoulders.

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There were a lot of interesting layering effects, such as a short black pleated skirt worn over a longer, crystal-embroidered sheer pencil skirt. And the slimline black skirt suit with patent lapels on the jacket served as a reminder of the designer's superb tailoring skills.

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But the real message of this collection was that Tisci is capable of producing a bonanza of salable merch -- sweaters with gold chain intarsia designs, black velvet baseball jackets, high-cut black pumps with gold metal ankle bracelets.

Caps with cat ears and sunglasses with panther motifs added a touch of whimsy that isn't always part of the designer's output.

All in all, there was a lot to purr about.

-- Booth Moore in Paris

PHOTOS: Givenchy fall-winter 2011 runway collection photo gallery

Photos: Looks from the Givenchy fall-winter 2011 runway collections shown during Paris Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

Paris Fashion Week: Givenchy goes for Rottweilers on the runway

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Even accounting for Fashion Standard Time, the Givenchy runway show was late out of the gate; the first model didn't hit the runway until an hour and 22 minutes past the scheduled start time. At the one-hour mark, folks with clipboards started circulating through the room to explain to the increasingly impatient crowd that the delay had to do with the electricity supply to the building. After at least one false start and an additional 20 minutes of waiting, even the most patient of the fashion flock started feeling like an angry, caged animal.

One can only imagine that Riccardo Tisci must have been feeling something similar when he came up with the snarling, teeth-baring dogfight of a menswear collection he sent down the runway for fall and winter 2011. And I'm using those descriptors literally.

Snarling Rottweilers were the central visual motif; they appeared an angry pack at a time on baggy dress shirts and shorts, they were appliqued solo onto baggy sweatshirts (above the capital letters RTTWLR and between the words "est." and "1955") and were even employed as an all-over print across the yoke and down the arms of a shirt.

Outfits were accessorized with dog-collar and dog-leash belts or dog-harness backpack straps, but the most curious items were the hats -- in brown or white, the round domed hats each sported a small visor in the front and a pair of dog ears up top (like those Goofy-eared hats you can buy at Disneyland but with smaller ears instead of long, floppy ones).

When I first read the show notes that described Louis Vuitton's collection as Amish meets David Lynch, it sounded like a "Bruno"-worthy prank. But once it unfolded, there was a method to the collection's madness. By comparison, Givenchy felt like a "Zoolander"-level fashion show parody with no payoff.

There were some interesting pieces in the show -- jackets with zip-in vests and a three-quarters-length fur vest layering piece, but the disconnect itself was the scene-stealer. This is the House of Givenchy, after all, and not Ed Hardy Tattoowear.

But Tisci seems to be wholeheartedly dedicated to moving the brand forward, even if it's not necessarily in the direction that people expect. And with that kind of (dogged) determination, it's just a matter of time.

After all, what's the saying? Every dog has its day?

-- Adam Tschorn in Paris

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Photos: Looks from the Givenchy fall and winter 2011 men's runway collection, shown on Friday during Paris Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson & Peter Stigter / For The Times

Leopard spots and clown prints: Givenchy gives guys a backbone

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The music accompanying the runway shows this season has been noteworthy, from Annie Lennox performing at Dolce & Gabbana's 20th-anniversary show to The Talking Heads' song "Psycho Killer" playing in at least two shows (at Gianfranco Ferre and Versace). And the volume has been cranked all the way up to 11 throughout.

But the Givenchy show, staged in the ornate ballroom of the InterContinental Paris Le-Grand Hotel, took things to a whole new level.

It started with monastic chanting -- which went on so long that the magazine editor across from me fired up her iPhone stopwatch app (she stopped counting just shy of four minutes) -- before amping up to the sort of bass rumbling that makes your inner ears itch.

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The $230 Givenchy jelly sandal and other uber-pricey rubber shoes

Jelly
It all started last year with a pair of $150 jelly (shoe-speak for "rubber") sandals from Givenchy, embossed with the brand's familiar square, interlocking logo.

"Jellies," which debuted in the 1980s and were made infamous in "The Big Lebowski" as the footwear of choice of Jeff Bridge's slacker character, the Dude, have historically been available for around $10 at the local drug store. 

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