Musings on the culture of keeping up appearances

All the Rage

Category: Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh and MAC Cosmetics collaborate on a makeup collection



Gareth Pugh, the protege of Rick Owens known for doing intensely dark, goth and zombie-inspired collections has confirmed a collection with MAC Cosmetics to launch in November. 

It may seem an unlikely pairing, especially considering that Pugh’s runway makeup generally consists of powder-white skin, black vinyl raccoon eyes or the blue disc-looking things that sat under models' eyes during his fall 2011 presentation.

MAC is a long-time supporter of Pugh even though he does border more toward the avant garde compared to other, more pop-ish designers they’ve collaborated with (think Alice + Olivia, Heatherette and Liberty of London). The cosmetics company has done the designer’s runway makeup for nearly seven years since Pugh began showing.

The collection will include multiple products and accessories in “special packaging.” This should be one of the most interesting and conceptual collabs MAC has done yet.


Makeup Bag: Designer Rachel Palley dishes on her beauty must-haves

Beauty Buzz: Malin + Goetz lip balm and other favorite things

Chevrons and chain-mail nails at Gareth Pugh

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos: (Left) Gareth Pugh presents his Fall/Winter 2008 collection of clothes at London Fashion Week. Credit: Kirk Mckoy / Los Angeles Times (Right) A look from the Gareth Pugh Ready to Wear Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 runway shows. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

Chevrons and chain-mail nails at Gareth Pugh


The models at Gareth Pugh’s fall 2010 show were modern-day femmes fatales dressed in hard-edged black leather and Art Deco-inspired chevron shapes repeating throughout most looks. To echo the collection’s theme, Marian Newman from Creative Nail Design shaped and painted nails in the same chevron pattern, using a color called Ivory Coast and several shades of black.

“The silhouette of the collection was angular with the occasional hint of softness, so I translated this onto many of the nails for the girls,” says Newman, who cut the nails diagonally so they formed a chevron point with the apex at the center of four fingers.

For an even more extreme look, Newman mixed in a chain-mail nail that mirrored a medieval detail from the clothing.

“I have long been fascinated with metal chains imitating the movement and feel of fabric,” Newman says. “To complement the draped chains of some of the pieces in the collection, miniature versions of the chains were applied to the chevron nails as an accessory.”

It’s a nail look that only the models in Pugh’s show and possibly Lady Gaga could pull off.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos: Left and right, the nails at the Gareth Pugh show. Credit: Creative Nail Design. Middle, a look from the show. Credit: Thibault Camus / Associated Press.

Paris Fashion Week: Zombies are haute at Gareth Pugh

Gareth pughThis season, Gareth Pugh, protege of Rick Owens and lover of spikey headgear, showed that he is ready to move on from being fashion's enfant terrible to being a bankable talent. Rihanna made a front row appearance at the Palais du Tokyo where Pugh staged his darkly romantic, tombstone gray, Goth-punk-zombie collection. (Zombies are the new vampires.)

Strip away the pale face paint, red under-eye makeup and gray hair extensions of the undead, and I could actually see the pop star wearing some of these pieces (as well as a lot of other people, for that matter) -- a figure hugging minidress with charcoal gray contouring panels and a curled, zippered collar; another minidress covered over with corset lacing coming undone, a sharply tailored tailcoat with zippers crisscrossing the front, slatted leggings and shredded knits. Bravo.

-- Booth Moore

Photos: Gareth Pugh's Spring-Summer 2010 runway

All the Rage: More from Paris Fashion Week

Follow the Image section on Twitter.

Follow fashion critic Booth Moore on Twitter.

Photo: Gareth Pugh Spring-Summer 2010 runway. Photo credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

What's more undead than goth fashions? Vampire fashion.

Last winter, we listed the goth resurgence as one of the top 10 fashion moments of 2008, after L.A. fashion house Rodarte went to the dark side in February of that year and brands like Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior did black lip gloss. Not that the look had gone too far underground, witness the goth weddings we profiled in 2007 (see pictures here).

The sensibility's still emphatically undead. Aside from goth, goth and more goth at L.A. Fashion Week, things seem to be trending toward, how shall we put it -- vampire-specific style.The website Trend Hunter shows us what's at stake with this video.

-- Whitney Friedlander


Top 10 fashion moments of 2008

When these goth rockers got married, they put their mark on wedding tradition

Kitson launches 'Twilight' clothing line
LAFW: BOXeight, the one-eyed king of L.A. fashion week

Men's fashion week newcomers slay status quo

Men's fashion runway shows unveil flair for the fantastic

Follow the Image section on Twitter

PFW: Gareth Pugh captures his looks on film

Gareth pugh fall 2009 paris fashion week PARIS -- You may remember the photos of Beyonce wearing a "Star Trek"-like, molded mini-dress by British designer Gareth Pugh at the European MTV Music Awards in November. The dress got mixed reviews, but the designer is a fashion darling of sorts, who is starting to make a name for himself in Paris.

Instead of a show, he surprised his guests on Wednesday afternoon by presenting his collection in a very cool short film directed by Ruth Hogben.

In keeping with the Goth style of his clothes, the film was dark and eerie, opening with the sound of flapping wings, as a model flapped her arms in a vampire-like cape dress, her fingernails manicured into silver talons. The season's aggressively '80s trend has nothing on Pugh's leather jacket covered in nail heads or his leather cage gown. Check the film out at

--Booth Moore


All the Rage's Paris Fashion Week coverage

Photos: Gareth Pugh's fall 2009 women's collection

Review: Gareth Pugh's men's show

Get more Paris updates: Follow Booth on Twitter

Photo: Ellis Scott 

Fall 2009: Pugh has Paris Fashion Week on pins and needles (video)

Avant-garde London-based designer Gareth Pugh, known for his intricate geometric designs and out-there, envelope-pushing pieces, closed out the fall-winter 2009-10 men's shows in Paris earlier this evening, by debuting his men's collection here.Pugh_pins

I'm still trying to get my brain wrapped around everything I saw; there were black, patent leather trench coats, side-buttoning tuxedos that recalled Goth matador costumes, shredded and sliced jeans, cropped jackets, silver metallic fabrics that look like leather chain mail, fur and silver, shard-like epaulet details.

Some pieces were embellished with carpet tacks in a Pinhead from "Hellraiser" meets futuristic porcupine sort of way. There were heavy, black, multi-buckled boots that rose nearly to the knee, umpteen black and white triangle designs (a recurring motif that cropped up in silver trousers and trenches as well), that conjured a sharp, precise, and imposing future, or something sliced out a double helix — except when it came to the quilted puffer vests and long puffy jackets. (I'm convinced it's nearly impossible to look ominous in a quilted nylon vest.)

The agressive Goth severity reminded me a little bit of Rick Owens' own men's runway debut in Paris two days earlier (not surprisingly, Owens mentored Pugh). And like the Owens show, I managed to capture it on video, although facing into the spotlight didn't help matters and, in reviewing my handiwork, I realize I did a better job of showcasing the people (and fire extinguisher) across from me at the Palais de Tokyo venue.

Continue reading »


Recommended on Facebook


In Case You Missed It...


Tweets and retweets from L.A. Times staff writers.