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Category: Fashion

Juicy no more: Boho looks from Skaist Taylor's two free spirits

Skaist Taylor
I may be the only person on the face of the planet who simply wasn't into the Juicy Couture track suit craze that swept style capitals of the world a few years back. Plenty of people were, people like Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan and Nicole Richie.

But as for me, I'd prefer a pair of jeans or a maxi dress to a sweat suit with writing across the rear end. And that's just one of the reasons I was thrilled to learn that Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor, the designers who created Juicy, are into something totally new -- and this time it's  something I can't wait to wear.

The pair sold Juicy several years ago, making a fortune on the deal, and now are debuting a completely new and different line, Skaist Taylor. This one is sophisticated  boho, with that gypsy-jetsetter vibe known as gypset. Writer Caroline Ryder talked to them about their segue from Juicy to the new line for a story in The Times' Image section. The clothes are supposed to hit stores in August in time for the fall season.

But I wondered, can I get my hands on them now? Then I remembered that Nordstrom's annual anniversary sale, offering fall merchandise on sale ahead of the season, started Friday. And sure enough, there on Nordstrom's website, are a few early offerings from Skaist Taylor. Not on sale, but ... score!

While we're talking boho, a couple of other stories in Sunday's Image section have the same flavor. Writer Janet Kinosian found a number of artisans who have turned the quaint craft of beading into next-level, artistic accessories. And Jessica Gelt found a free-spirited pair of performance artists, The Bumbys, who can sum your personality -- and grade your appearance -- in under three minutes just by looking at you. (It's more fun than it sounds.)

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-- Susan Denley

Photo:: Fashion designers Pamela Skaist-Levy, left, and Gela Nash-Taylor pose for a portrait in Skaist-Levy's backyard in Beverly Hills. After selling their phenomenally successful Juicy Couture label, they've  created a new line, Skaist Taylor.  Credit: Anne Cusack/Los Angeles Times

Dosa's eco-chic fashion featured at Santa Monica Museum of Art

Dosa
When it comes to feel-good summer clothes, nobody does it like L.A. designer Christina Kim with Dosa, her line of eco-friendly, human-friendly kurtas, sundresses and scarves that celebrate the handmade and the organic, as well as the ancient tradition and craftsmanship of artisans around the world.

Dosa sells at A'Maree's in Newport Beach, Barneys New York and, temporarily this summer, at the Santa Monica Museum of Art, where the gift shop, Gracie, is opening an art installation spotlighting the designer's thoughtful work.

The installation is inspired by photographs of cloud formations that the designer took while flying over Acapulco, Mexico. Kim pixelated the photographs and was able to isolate 15 distinct shades of blue. She's been working with children at the Taller de Arte Papel in Oaxaca, a workshop that continues the Mexican tradition of paper-making, to create handmade, hand-tinted papers, similar to papel picado flags, to re-create the heavenly image on the ceiling of the shop.

"The space itself is very cement-blocky, like a garage, but we'll keep the door open all the time," she says. "The idea is to bring the sky into the museum, so when you enter, you're walking into the clouds."

For its spring collection, Dosa translated the hues, which range from nearly white to deep indigo, into hand-dyed textiles made from organic hand-woven Khadi fabric from India, as well as embroidered pieces made from recycled materials. Clothing, accessories and housewares range from $25 to $400.

In addition to designing Dosa, Kim has created art installations in venues in Europe and on the East Coast, but this is the first time she has done one in Los Angeles.

The Dosa installation and pop-up store opens with a public reception from 6 to 8 p.m.Saturday and is scheduled to remain through Aug. 18. Or you can visit Kim at her appointment-only store and studio space in downtown Los Angeles.

Dosa for Santa Monica Museum of Art, through Aug. 18, Bergamot Station, Building G1, 2525 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica. www.smmoa.org. For budding textile artists or designers, the museum will host an indigo dyeing workshop July 28.

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SpiritHoods expands into swimwear

-- Booth Moore

Photo: A hand-spun, hand-loomed and hand-stitched kurta that will be sold at the Dosa pop-up shop at the Santa Monica Museum of Art, open July 14-Aug. 18. Credit: Dosa for Santa Monica Museum of Art.

 

SpiritHoods expands into swimwear


SpiritHood now offering swimwearL.A.-based SpiritHoods gained fame for faux fur headpieces meant to invoke the spirit and the look of animals such as bears, wolves and pandas. You know the ones: a hood with ears, and long side pieces ending in paws or pompoms.

Now, the company is exploring new territory with an expansion this summer into women's swimwear and some new accessories.

The first offerings are two styles of bikinis -- the Leopard and the Zebra. There are no gimmicks, just tops and bottoms printed with leopard spots or zebra stripes. Tops and bottoms can be purchased separately for $49 each, so you can mix up the animals for your own creation.

The accessories include a silver feather pendant necklace for $69 and feather clips that can be attached to a SpiritHood for $29-$39.

The company's expansion will continue this fall with capes, vests and faux fur jackets.

SpiritHood merchandise can be purchased on the company website and at 400 retailers worldwide, as well as in a pop-up shop through July 14 at Royal-T, 8910 Washington Blvd., Culver City.

 

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--Susan Denley

Photo: The two bikini styles being offered by L.A.-based SpiritHoods. Courtesy of SpiritHoods

Diana exhibit opens in Long Beach on heels of Diamond Jubilee

“Diana: Legacy of a Princess” exhibition at the Queen Mary

With all the buzz surrounding Queen Elizabeth II's Diamond Jubilee, Wimbledon and the London Olympics this summer, the timing couldn't be better for an exhibition celebrating all things royal, and we mean all things, from palace menu cards to a boxed piece of Prince William's christening cake.

“Diana: Legacy of a Princess,” opening this weekend at the Queen Mary in Long Beach, features nearly 2,000 items of memorabilia associated with Princess Diana and the British royal family.

For fashion fans, several of Diana's British-designed ensembles are on display, including the red taffeta-skirted gown by Murray Arbeid that she cleverly chose to accessorize with two different-colored long gloves (red and black) for the 1986 America's Cup Ball in London.

Examples of luxury craftsmanship fit for a princess include Sarah Ferguson's richly embroidered wedding dress, also from 1986, with pearl-encrusted bumble bees, anchors and the intertwining letters “S” and “A” (for Sarah and her prince, Andrew).

At the other end of the spectrum is the infamous see-through dress modeled by Kate Middleton during a 2002 student fashion show at St. Andrews University that may have helped her win the heart of William, the presumed future king. Of course, that piece is widely regarded as Middleton's first and last fashion “don't.”

Other items on display highlight her taste and reserved style, namely the royal blue Issa dress she wore to meet the press and announce her engagement to William in 2010.

The show features ephemera associated with other royals too, such as an embroidered robe worn by a page at the coronation of King George VI, menus from Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle dinners hosted by Queen Elizabeth, handwritten letters from Prince Charles, antique scarves, China and historical newspapers.

The exhibition is jointly presented by the Queen Mary and the Pink Ribbons Crusade, a nonprofit breast cancer awareness organization founded in early 2000 by Jess and Suzanne King of Austin, Texas, who have been avid collectors of Diana memorabilia for many years. A portion of proceeds from ticket sales will benefit City of Hope.

“Diana: Legacy of a Princess” opens Saturday and runs indefinitely at the Queen Mary, www.queenmary.com. Tickets are $34.95 for adults, $23.95 for children ages 5-11.

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Mena Suvari, Katie Cassidy celebrate Roman Luxe jewelry launch

Shopping L.A.: Amber Sakai has sample sale. Ruti opens and more

-- Booth Moore

Photo: Diana wore this floral print ruched dress when she happily danced with Prince Charles at Australia's Bicentennial celebration in January 1988. The dress is on display at the Queen Mary in Long Beach as part of the exhibit. As pictured, it is set against a backdrop of Kensington Palace. Credit: Gray Hawn Photography.

A fresh approach to the T-shirt

21 drops
Is it really possible to do something new with the T-shirt? Something new in Southern California where a new T-shirt line seems to be born every hour? Cotton Citizen is one of those new lines and it emphasizes sophisticated dye and distress techniques usually associated only with premium denim. Late last year, a small selection of tees and tanks were “soft launched” at Ron Robinson at Fred Segal, and now the full collection is rolling out. Offerings include bamboo zip hoodies, maxi-dresses and a bevy of tee silhouettes. Prices range from $60 to $200. Cotton Citizen’s Adam Vanunu spent two years toying with high-end fabric, chemical and color combinations (percentages of red, yellow and blue) until satisfied. Read more about Cotton Citizen in Sunday's Image section.

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Photo: Cotton Citizen's Adam Vanunu, right, and Daniel Rosen. Credit: Al Seib/Los Angeles Times

FIDM looks at clothes worn on the doomed Titanic [UPDATED]

The Museum at FIDM is planning a special program at the school's Orange County campus, focusing on the clothes worn by the crew and passengers aboard the Titanic
Few stories of ships sinking have ever caught the imagination like that of the Titanic, which has inspired books, movies and even, as my colleague Susan Carpenter related on Sunday, a YA novel in which the clothes designed by the real-life Lucile Duff-Gordon play a key role.

Lady Duff-Gordon, pictured above, was a London couturier who along with her husband survived the ship's sinking on April 15, 1912. Some of her wealthy clients did not.

In recognition of the approaching 100th anniversary of the tragedy, the Museum at FIDM is planning a special program April 14 at the school's Orange County campus, focusing on the clothes worn by the crew and passengers aboard the Titanic. 

The ship's passengers and crew provide a cross section of attire that was worn in the era, ranging from the poorest of the poor in steerage to the richest of the rich -- John Jacob Astor, for example.

Kevin Jones, museum curator at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, is scheduled to lead the presentation, which is to include an exhibition of fashions from the era, including a gown from Duff-Gordon's Lucile collection. Champagne, savories and sweets are to be served.

The presentation is set for 10 a.m. to noon at 175900 Gillette Ave. in Irvine. Tickets are $100 and are available online.

[UPDATED 6:15 p.m. April 2 to correct the date the event is taking place.]

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-- Susan Denley        

Photo: Lady Lucile Duff-Gordon. Credit: FIDM 

Fashion photographer Lillian Bassman dead at 94

Lillian Bassman and her husband Paul HimmelPhotographer Lillian Bassman came on the fashion scene in the 1940s, '50s and '60s, shooting elegant wasp-waisted women, art directing at Junior Bazaar and inspiring the designers whose creations she photographed. 

She left the fashion scene in the 1970s but returned 20 years later, thanks to some assists from the painter Helen Frankenthaler and photo historian Martin Harrison. Within the last few years, the art and fashion world declared that she was in the midst of a renaissance and renewed interest in her work led to a new book and exhibitions around the world.

Bassman died Monday in New York. She was 94.

According to an obituary in the New York Times, during her first flourishing, Bassman "became highly sought after for her expressive portraits of slender, long-necked models advertising lingerie, cosmetics and fabrics. Her lingerie work in particular brought lightness and glamour to an arena previously known for heavy, middle-aged women posing in industrial-strength corsets."

Bassman's work was featured at the Peter Fetterman Gallery at Bergamot Station in Santa Monica in 2010. Her work was published in "Lillian Bassman" in 1997 and "Lillian Bassman: Women" in 2009.

Dress By Dior
At one time her favorite model was Barbara Mullen, above, noted for her 20-inch waist. "There are models that are not models but muses," Bassman recalled in a 2010 article in the Los Angeles Times. "She had everything marvelous: a beautiful neck, grace, the ability to respond to me.

"We used to get on the floor, and when I get excited, I take my shoes off," she continued. "The two of us would dance. We understood each other."

Mullen agreed. "I felt absolutely wonderful when I moved with Lillian....it was like being heaven."

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 -- Alice Short

Photos: Top, Lillian Bassman and husband Paul Himmel attend the CFDA hosted viewing of MOMA's "Fashioning Fiction in Photography Since 1990," on April 22, 2004, in Queens, New York. Credit: Andrew Kent / Getty Images

Middle, model Barbara Mullen in a gown by Christian Dior, from Harper's Bazaar, April 1949.  Credit: Estate of Lillian Bassman / Peter Fetterman Gallery.

 

 

 

Sneak Peek: Alberta Ferretti's Impulse collection for Macy's

Alberta Ferretti

The capsule collection Alberta Ferretti is designing as part of Macy's Impulse series looks dreamy and ultra-feminine in a couple of sketches released Wednesday.

Macy's announced this week that Ferretti is its latest design partner in the series, and that her collection will go on sale April 17, just when we'll be wanting floaty, delicate clothes for spring and summer.

Prices range from $49 to $119. Colors will include orange, pink and teal offset by muted whites and tans, for a breezy feel, "reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast,"  according to press materials.

I'm ready! 

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--Susan Denley

Sketches courtesy of Macy's

Top 10 fashion trends of 2011

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In 2011, fashion was more accessible than ever before. The world's newest fashion icon and royal, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, was photographed shopping at affordable chain stores. Designers talked directly to fans on TV and Twitter, and sold cheap chic collections on EBay, at H&M, Target and Macy's. There was so much information and so many opinions out there about fashion, that at times, it was difficult to find any consensus, much less a trend. But here are my picks:

1) Hot hues. Bright color is a trend that we saw simultaneously on the red carpet (Emma Stone, top left, in that pink-and-red Giambattista Valli dress at the "Friends With Benefits" premiere) on the runways (at Jil Sander, 3.1 Philip Lim, Prabal Gurung, Roksanda Ilincic) and on the streets, or rather, the fields at the Coachella Music and Arts Festival, where neon reigned supreme. And it's only going to get stronger for spring 2012.

2) Dip-dyed hair. Kate Bosworth, Katy Perry and Lauren Conrad are just a few of the celebs who sported rainbow-colored tips this year. But I knew it was officially a trend when the 10-year-old boy sitting next to me at Sally Hershberger was getting a (very expensive) blue streak put in his tresses. Only in L.A.

 10collage

3) Colored denim. Are you seeing a theme here? Skinny jeans didn't go anywhere this year. In fact, they were more popular than ever thanks to a widening range of color options available everywhere from J. Brand (above) to Forever 21. 

4) Native accents. Fair Isle knits and Native American prints were splashed across everything from 1980s-era cropped tops, to chunky scarves, leggings and sweaters. If you're looking for the source, think back to the fall 2010 D&G runway (a Fair Isle fest as seen in the top right photo), Proenza Schouler's fall 2011 collection inspired by Santa Fe, and the music festivals.

5)  Women in tuxedos. Beyonce wore a sequin Dolce & Gabbana tux at the VMA Awards, and Kim Kardashian (who is not one to cover up) wore one to pose for her family Christmas card. Tory Burch custom made her first tuxedo for pal Kanye West to wear to the Costume Institute Gala in May, then debuted her own range of tuxedos for women. But really, on a woman or a man, tuxedos (or le smoking as Yves Saint Laurent called them) are timeless.

10collage3

6) Designer duds for a song. Missoni at Target (above right) and Versace at H&M, both out this year, were two of the most successful cheap chic collections of all time, as designers continued to go downmarket to increase the visibility of their brands and bring their style to a new generation of shoppers. The Missoni collection was a zippity zig-zag joy, and the Versace for H&M collection -- more Gianni than Donatella, more South Beach than Milano -- may have been the best Versace collection in years.

7) The new sobriety. Thank you Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, (above left) for bringing modesty and appropriateness back to the public forum with your demure shift dresses, tailored coats and classic pumps. 

8) McQueen mania. It was the royal wedding of the century, and the bride wore Alexander McQueen. The bad boy British designer may have died last year, but his fashion label has never been more popular thanks to the stunning designs of artistic director Sarah Burton, who is carrying on his legacy. More than half a million people went to see "Savage Beauty," the retrospective exhibition of his work, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, kicking off a frenzy among museum curators the world over to come up with more fashion programming.

10collage2

9) Fur and feathers flying. From feather hair clips to feather earrings, ombre fur coats to oversized fur handbags, this year we fawned over fauna. Except in West Hollywood, where last month, the City Council passed a ban on fur sales that will take effect in 2013 -- and could push some high-end fashion retailers out of the neighborhood.   

10) Shock and awe. It was a clash of tutus, animal prints and fried chicken necklaces, as Nicki Minaj (above left) and Lady Gaga (above right) tried to out-weird each other with wacky outfits this year. But fashion's tolerance for weird is high (how else to explain the fascination with Daphne Guinness?) and we loved it.

-- Booth Moore 

Top left photo: Emma Stone attends the "Friends with Benefits" premiere at Ziegfeld Theater on July 18, 2011 in New York City wearing Giambattista Valli. Credit: Stephen Lovekin / Getty Images

Top right photo: A model wears a fur and Fair Isle creation of D&G by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana during the Milan Fashion Week fall-winter 2010/2011 in Milan. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

Second left photo: A model in a pink ombre fur jacket at the Prabal Gurung autumn-winter 2011/2012 runway shows. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

Second right photo: Colorful jeans from J Brand. Credit: J Brand

Third left photo: Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge at the University of St. Andrews on Feb. 25 in St Andrews, Scotland. Credit: Chris Jackson / Getty Images.

Third right photo: The Missoni for Target collection debuted to unprecedented demand on Sept. 13, bringing the designer label's signature prints and patterns to apparel and accessories ranging in price from $2.99 to $599.99. Credit: Target

Bottom left photo: Nicki Minaj performs during the Victoria's Secret fashion show in New York on Nov. 9. Credit: Brad Barket / Associated Press

Bottom right photo: Lady Gaga, wearing Alexander McQueen, poses with her International Pop award during the Bambi awarding ceremony in Wiesbaden, Germany, on Nov. 10. Credit: Daniel Roland / AFP/Getty Images

Fern Mallis takes the runway to radio in new Sirius XM series

Fern Mallis Sirius XM Interviews Calvin Klein
Fern Mallis, considered by many to be the fairy godmother of New York Fashion Week, has spent decades helping to shape New York City's fashion landscape, first as executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, later as senior vice president of IMG Fashion and with her fashion consultancy firm Fern Mallis. Now she is taking her talents to the airwaves in the monthly, two-hour Sirius XM Radio show "Fashion Insiders With Fern Mallis," which will air on Sirius XM's Stars Channel 107.

The inaugural episode, which debuted Wednesday, consists of Mallis' Oct. 17 interview with fashion designer Calvin Klein (repurposed from Mallis' 92nd Street Y series "Fashion Icons"). Don't fret if you missed it since it is scheduled to air again Saturday at 4 p.m. PST and Sunday at 5 a.m. PST.

Unfortunately, we were among those who did miss it, but we're told Mallis will be conducting interviews with fashion designers, style experts, magazine fashion editors and others (the Sirius XM website mentions Norma Kamali and Robert Verdi). She'll be speaking on topics big (the historical and social significance of fashion) and small (seasonal trends and inspirations). 

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Adam Tschorn +

Photo: Fern Mallis, left, has a new monthly Sirius XM Radio show, "Fashion Insiders." Credit: XM Sirius. Mallis interviewed fashion designer Calvin Klein, shown at right in 2001. Credit: Daniel Dal Zennaro / AFP


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