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Category: Etro

Milan Fashion Week: It's a shore thing at Etro

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Kean Etro chose the shoreline as a metaphor for his spring and summer 2012 menswear collection, which gave him the freedom to present two different influences, crossing and mixing the two as effortlessly as the waves wash upon the sand.

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One was a decidedly melancholy Mediterranean mind-set; characterized by tartans and checks in earthy tobacco  and sand brown shades, and the trademark Etro paisleys muted to almost a shadow where they  appeared at all -- which was mostly on jacket linings, knitwear and sailor-style duffel bags.

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Etroscarf The other was a brighter, peppier and practically preppy approach: blue silk paisley and polka-dot designs, trousers in bright solid shades of orange and yellow, and navy blue blazers -- some with contrast taping on the lapels -- layered over chunky cable knit sweaters.

The prep effect was heightened by pants and shirts with all-over prints of nautical and sporty motifs including dolphins, sea horses, boats, anchors, tennis rackets and tennis balls.

The crossover pieces were long flowing scarves in a variety of floral and paisley patterns, sometimes knotted ascot-like at the neck but mostly billowing freely like sails in a sea breeze.

The nod to the nautical was emphasized by a blue scrim at the top of the runway, upon which shadows of sailing ships and seagulls were projected, and accompanied by a live soundtrack, which was performed by improvisational pianist and composer Cesare Picco, who used seashells to percussive effect as part of the performance.

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Kean Etro is an enthusiastic designer, and once he's found his inspiration he often dives right in, so instead of feeling disconnected, the balancing act between the beach and the briny blue deep actually worked to his advantage. 

-- Adam Tschorn, reporting from Milan, Italy

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Photos: Looks from the Etro spring/summer 2012 runway collection shown during Milan Fashion Week. Credits: (top) Tullio M. Puglia / Getty Images; (middle) Olivier Morin / AFP / Getty Images; (last) Daniel Dal Zennaro / European Pressphoto Agency

Trendspotting: Menswear's on a mountain high

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Are mountains having a moment? It sure feels like it, based on the recently wrapped menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York City, which served up climbing ropes and carabiners alongside the clothes and found inspiration in the mountain climbers of Yosemite's Half Dome, Europe's Alpine inhabitants, and the Himalayan landscape.

The approach to the summit may have actually started back with the presentation of the spring and summer 2011 collections -- where Daiki Suzuki's final collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills was inspired by the mountains of Yosemite National Park  -- but the ascent has unquestionably quickened with the most recent round of shows.

In Milan, Etro's collection was full of Tyrolean inspired woven jackets, headgear and embroidery detailing, and the show notes referenced Tibetan summits, Himalayan folklore, and Thomas Mann's novel "The Magic Mountain."

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Milan Fashion Week: Etro checks off all the 1970s trends

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With a specialty in prints, Etro was well-positioned to take on spring's '70s revival. And this collection, at Milan Fashion Week, had all of the elements -- bohemian maxi-dresses, peasant blouses, jumpsuits and wood platform shoes.

Each piece was a canvas for Etro's famed textiles, which had a bolder look this season, more akin to something you would expect to see from Diane Von Furstenberg in her 1970s heyday. (Think bright colors, tribal and geometric.)

But it wasn't all flow-y hippie chick. There were also some strong tailored pieces, including a khaki pantsuit with flared, high-waist pants that could have come straight out of Mary Tyler Moore's closet.

-- Booth Moore

Etro spring-summer 2011 runway collection photo gallery

Photo: Etro spring-summer 2011 at Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson & Peter Stigter / For The Times

D&G's picnic-themed collection is a kick in the grass at Milan Fashion Week

d&g spring summer 2011 menswear runway
Monday at Milan Fashion Week served up two back-to-back grass-covered fashion shows. The first was Etro's eco-conscious "Tree of Life" collection, which included gift bags filled with soil and seedling trees (good luck getting that back through customs ... ), as well as a collection filled with climbing-vine motifs that played out across a faux-turf runway.

The second was the show for Dolce & Gabbana's lower-priced D&G line, where the catwalk was covered with sod so fresh you could smell the earthiness the minute you entered the room. Though, to be fair, let's remember that Etro did plant a vegetable garden alongside the runway a few seasons back (which required nearly constant watering to keep from wilting under the lights).

Using Édouard Manet's painting "Le déjeuner sur l'herbe" ("The Lunch on the Grass") as a starting point, the Spring/Summer 2011 Menswear collection was a picnic basket packed full of '50s-era lunch-on-the-lawn motifs, most notably the bold red-and-white-checked button-front shirts, which evoked the classic image of a picnic blanket, and a garden party's worth of jackets in pale green, light blue, pink and yellow. (Although a screen-printed T-shirt bearing the image of Johnny Depp circa "Cry-Baby" was a head-scratching non sequitur.) 

But my favorites (as an ardent fan of all things tropical) were the aloha-print pieces, including jackets, swim trunks, shorts and button-front shirts festooned with surfers, palm trees, seascapes, exploded florals and pineapples. Lunch on the lawn never looked so luxe.

The travel theme is pretty much a constant at the men's spring/summer collections, but with this collection, D&G reminded us that traveling can be as easy shrugging into a mint-green jacket or spreading a blanket on the grass.

-- Adam Tschorn, reporting from Milan, Italy

Photos: D&G's Spring / Summer 2011 menswear show

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Photos: Looks from the D&G Spring / Summer 2011 Menswear collection, shown during Milan Fashion Week on June 21, 2010. Credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times



MFW: Etro gets down to size

Etro fall 2009 milan fashion week MILAN -- What the Etro collection lacked in big ideas it made up for in wearable clothes, beginning with perfectly cut, metallic-glazed blazers and pants cropped above the ankle, right on through to the airy chiffon gowns featuring the house's signature textiles translated into ribbons of print.

The fall season's surface-texture trend appeared on an amazing-looking multicolored silk fringe skirt and a bronze, one-sleeve dress with a studded leather cage effect and a tribal feel.

--Booth Moore

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Photo: Surface texture, a fall trend, and bold pattern were on display in a sleek Etro design. Damien Meyer / AFP / Getty Images

Fall 2009: Rare Escapist Fare from Etro and Moschino

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Most designers showing at fashion week in Milan have bent over backward to show they're in touch with the reality of dwindling disposable income, and their collections have all been linked by their efforts to evoke, nostalgia, comfort, familiarity and connectedness. It makes for good PR and OK copy, but how much fun is the party when everyone's behaving themselves?

There's a place in the world for escapist fare &mdash books, movies, and yes, clothing — that takes our mind off the bleached bones of our 401(k) fund and the fact that our houses are more valuable as raw lumber

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