MILAN -- Another old house with another new designer. Norwegian Peter Dundas showed his first collection for
Emilio Pucci on Saturday, injecting a young, sexy, '80s-tinged energy into the Florentine label known for its psychedelic prints.
He opened with a series of clingy dresses, in faded earth-tone Pucci prints, that were so short you almost saw more than you wanted to. Add to that over-the-knee suede boots and the message was clear: This is not your grandmother's Pucci.
Slinky, zippered biker pants in denim or snakeskin were clearly aimed at the nightclubbing set, paired with enormous fur chubbys, oversized thunderbolt-print blazers or squiggle-print silk camp shirts.
For evening, the prints were deconstructed into swirling, beaded embroideries on skimpy minidresses, some with graphic lace cutouts. It all made for a compelling package. But with so many brands already doing the rock star look (Gucci, Balmain, Alexander Wang), is there really room for another?
-- Booth Moore
All the Rage's Milan Fashion Week coverage
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Photo: A fall '09 look from the Emilio Pucci runway show during Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Giulio di Mauro / European Pressphoto Agency