New York Fashion Week: Diane Von Furstenberg's globe-trotting gypsy looks

Diane Von Furstenberg has a lock on the globe-trotting gypsy look, which she returned to in earnest for spring. "Queen of the Desert" was how she described the collection grounded, as always, in dresses. This time, they were largely sheaths in sunset-colored mosaic and palm tree prints.

There was a crafty feel to many pieces, including a chubby jacket in cream shredded chiffon that almost looked like feathers, a long, black macrame jacket, and a shift dress trimmed in gold coins. The mood was accentuated by woven bangles and rainbow metallic basket weave leather hobo bags.

But beneath the tribal drumbeat, there were lots of wearable pieces, including silk anoraks in brown or burnt orange, gently gathered at the back, that could represent the evolution of fall's boyfriend jacket: easy, chiffon jodhpur pants: and a gold spangled black chiffon vest that could update any old thing.

-- Booth Moore

Photos: Diane Von Furstenberg Spring / Summer 2010

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Photo credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

When black model Joy Bryant got run off the runway

The lack of black models and the prevalence of razor-thin models has long been the bane of the fashion industry. (At this season's N.Y. Fashion Week, jumpsuits are much more popular than multicultural catwalks, says Reuters.) For an entertaining and infuriating firsthand account of one black model's experience in the biz, check out actress and ex-mannequin Joy Bryant's essay on the Huffington Post. Here's a tidbit of her describing one casting call to get you hungry:

"I finally get to the room, where the VERY famous designer is sitting at a long table with a few associates. I say hello, hand my portfolio over, and proceed to "walk" (please reference "Top Model"). I do so and then the VERY famous designer says to me, with a smile of course, "Joy, you are soooo beautiful, but I'm not using black girls this season." (Insert sound of record scratching here). Yeah, he actually said that to my 'beautiful' face. He's lucky he didn't get a black eye."

You have to wonder why this designer would bother to see a black model if he had no intention of using one in his show? Reuters also reports that Diane von Furstenberg, Tracy Reese and DKNY used a high number of black models this season. Worth noting.

-- Monica Corcoran

photo of Joy Bryant: WireImage

NY Fashion Week: Skin is in

Hurricane Hanna hit New York on Saturday, the rain came in sheets, and still the glossy editors wore their stiletto sandals and booties, God bless 'em. Me, I wore my Havaiana flip-flops and almost lost one when I stepped into a puddle up to my ankles trying to steal a cab ahead of the teetering flock on the corner of 21st and 10th Avenue.

Luckily, trucking around in the soggy weather was worth it. The shows have been good, and from the handful I have seen, it seems to be all about the body for spring. Maybe it’s the Olympics, or fashion's
never-ending love affair with the 1980s, but skin is in; skirts are short and tight.

Up-and-comer Alexander Wang has got the look down like nobody else. His show was in a garage-like space with concrete floors that his helpers sprinkled with water to create that hot and sweaty after-a-night-of-partying vibe. They needn’t have bothered. We could have all just shaken out our umbrellas.

Wang's collection was raunchy and fun -- an awesome mishmash of sportswear and the street, with a touch of "Miami Vice" in the form of neon pinks and aqua blues. Crockett and Tubbs ARE due for a fashion comeback. And I loved the quote he put in his show notes: “Anyone can get all dressed up and glamorous, but it is how people dress for their off days that is the most intriguing.”