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Category: Christopher Kane

London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane's one-trick collection

Kanemain

Christopher Kane, who nabbed this year's British Fashion Award, began his fall show auspiciously, with the coolest crochet knits your grandma has never seen.

Knit skirts and cardigans came in geometric patterns, with lava lamp liquid-filled plastic insets creating a homespun-meets-futuristic look. I wish Kane had lingered on the thought a little longer, pushing himself to do more with it.

Kanemain2

Instead, day wear segued into an endless parade of little black dresses, one barely distinguishable from the next, with the same liquidy trim at the waist or necklines. (Reminded me of the "oily" stickers I used to collect as a kid.)

The finale dresses didn't say much more, merely adding clear sequins to the formula.

But looking up at the cheap seats, I couldn't help but notice Kane's cheering section, clad in the galactic- and floral-print T-shirts he's been producing as entry level products over the past couple of seasons.

The liquid-filled plastic motif will probably lend itself to similar saleable goodies, such as the awesome, lava-look plastic clutch purses seen on the runway.

--Booth Moore in London

 Photos: Looks from the Christopher Kane fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during London Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.

London Fashion Week: Gingham checks and romantic echoes

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LONDON -- Next spring, when we're all wearing gingham checks, it will be thanks to designer Christopher Kane, who affirmed his role as leader of the new Brit pack with a spring collection that was directional enough to start trends that will trickle all the way down to Target.

There was something both sultry and sinister about Kane's juxtaposition of mismatched tablecloth checks, sheer lingerie-like panels and corset boning on dresses in baby pink, lemon yellow and cappuccino brown gingham check, with pleated skirts or thigh high slits. Sweaters sliced open in back also offered a flirty, peekaboo effect.

Kane's romantic mood was echoed elsewhere during the strong spring runway shows here last week, in the powdery hues, floral prints, gentle draping and sheer layers, as well as in the earlier New York shows at Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang and Donna Karan.

At Burberry, the week's most star-studded front row -- Victoria Beckham, Freida Pinto, Agyness Deyn, Emma Watson and Gwyneth Paltrow -- gathered to see Christopher Bailey's sugary sweet collection. Trench coats, thigh high dresses and skirts in salt water taffy shades of gauzy organza, silk and satin were twisted, knotted, looped and ruched to within an inch of their lives. The technique, which made for a more conceptual collection than anything Bailey has previously done for Burberry, occasionally gave even the most lithe models unwanted lumps and bumps. But all was forgiven during the finale, when silver confetti rained down on the runway.
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Fashion Diary: London Calling

Gossip, first impressions, trends in the making, celebrities and style setters. A regular feature by fashion critic Booth Moore.

Glasgow-born, London-based designer Christopher Kane has created one terrific collection for Topshop. Debuting Sept. 18 at Topshop stores and online, it's full of the kind of feminine yet fierce pieces we've come to expect from the designer who got his start at Versace. He uses lots of grommets for a 1980s-meets-"Gladiator" look (see dress, left), and some softer-looking beads and paillettes (see dress, below left). The embellishments are pure Kane. After all, we have him to thank for the sequin trend that's everywhere. He was doing overgrown sequins back in fall of '08.

Priced from $60 to $310, the Topshop collection should fly off the racks. I will be flying to London the day it debuts, and who knows if there will be anything left to buy by the time I land? I'm looking forward to attending London Fashion Week, having skipped it for a couple of seasons. I missed seeing the raw talent that the city has to offer. Must-sees include Kane, of course, as well as Erdem Moralioglu, Todd Lynn and others. Because it's the 25th anniversary of LFW, several British designers who normally show elsewhere are returning to their hometown runways, including Luella Bartley, Matthew Williamson and Burberry. Should be fun. 

**Photos have been removed

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