Milan Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum sends a raft of raffia down the runway

The runway at Burberry was a hurricane of handcrafted detail -- from the crocheted raffia caps all the way down to the cork-soled leather loafers with raffia contrasts, if there was an opportunity to make something look hand-hewn (wood toggle buttons on jackets) hand-sewn (shirts with chunky felt bird appliques blanket-stitched over the heart), hand-shredded (raffia trim on jackets) or hand-beaded (detachable crochet collars set with wooden beads), chief creative officer Christopher Bailey seized it with gusto.

Bailey's goal wasn't to create a collection that would be instantly recognizable by feel in a darkened room (though he did do that); he was trying to celebrate craftsmanship. This was a theme that was bubbling up through several other shows on the first day of Milan Fashion Week (most notably John Varvatos), but Bailey really hammered home the point: In this day and age, when technology has made it possible to do to a garment almost anything that can be imagined (except for that whole cloak of invisibility thing), true luxury now means doing it by hand.

Bailey did it in an over-the-top fashion (I'm not sure exactly where those raffia caps belong -- except maybe on the Jamaican bobsled team or the dudes circle-dancing at the Coachella Music Festival) but maybe he's just overcompensating a bit since Burberry's been pushing the digital envelope just about as hard as he's been mining the brand's heritage, and this collection could be ordered instantly at the Burberry website.

There were explicit nods to the brand's heritage beneath the raft of raffia -- a check lining here, a few throat latches there, some gabardine, some trench coats and a liberal sprinkling of the Burberry crest.

But the takeaway was unmistakable: the slow fashion movement has crept in on little cork soles.

RELATED:

Milan Fashion Week: John Varvatos strikes a chord with dusty duds and hand-painted roses

London Fashion Week: Burberry gets sentimental over Jean Shrimpton

Milan Fashion Week: Rain on the runway underscores Burberry Prorsum's stormy weather appeal

-- Adam Tschorn in Milan

Photos: Looks from the Burberry Prorsum spring and summer 2012 men's runwway collection, shown on June 18, 2011, during Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Olivier Morin / AFP/Getty Images

Your Morning Fashion and Beauty Report: At Cannes, Rachel McAdams does sultry while Tilda Swinton does subdued, and Kate Winslet is the new face of St. John

Rob Zangardi and Mariel Haenn, the stylists behind the super-revealing, firecracker-red lace dress that Rachel McAdams donned in Cannes, talk about dressing celebs for the red carpet and the impact J Lo (another one of their A-list clients) has on fashion. WWD

The dress code at the Cannes Film Festival may be "less is more," but it's nice to see a star sport something a little more subdued and still look amazing. Tilda Swinton might be one of few actresses that can wear a silky button-down blouse at the skin, I mean, film fest. She looked great in a billowy white blouse tucked into the waistband of a simple black pencil skirt. The ensemble echoed the Jil Sander look she wore to this year's Golden Globes. StyleList

New moms such as Miranda Kerr and Penelope Cruz have shed their baby weight in what seems like no time at all. Cruz, who was pregnant while filming "Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides," talks about how she lost her post-baby weight, and of course, it seems just way too easy. Us Weekly

Kate Winslet is joining the likes of Angelina Jolie and Karen Elson as the new face of Orange County-based brand St. John for its fall 2011 ad campaign. Winslet is on a roll: She is currently the face of Lancome and an "ambassador of elegance" to Swiss watch label Longine. Telegraph

Emma Watson, who like Winslet is a British beauty and face of Lancome (Watson for its scent Tresor Midnight Rose), wants to add an eco-friendly cosmetic component to the brand. Can this Ivy League-educated ingenue get the almost-80-year-old cosmetic label to go green? Fashionista

Burberry had a bash to celebrate its new Convent Garden store, which attracted beauties and brand loyals such as Lily Donaldson and Julia Restoin Roitfeld. WWD

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photo: Rachel McAdams wearing a Marchesa gown at the Cannes Film Festival. Credit: Pascal Le Segretain / Getty Images

 

London Fashion Week: Burberry gets sentimental over Jean Shrimpton

For the fall Burberry Prorsum show, designer Christoper Bailey got sentimental over British fashion model Jean Shrimpton, symbol of the 1960s youthquake, according to show notes.

He sent out models in mod, cow-print flat caps, round sunglasses, sculptural, drop-shoulder coats and cropped cape jackets that brought to mind vintage Balenciaga and Courreges.

The coats came in every conceivable bright color, as well as black-and-white windowpane checks, with bubble backs, gathered back pleats or leather martingale belts

Adding to the retro look: Zip-front mini-dresses, flared pants and tweedy leggings worn with tunics with puffball fur sleeves. It was a cute show, especially with the snow falling on the finale. And Bailey was right to keep the focus on outerwear. (Which is what people really look to the brand for anyway.) But the double-layer fabrics and heavy twills were miles away from the seasonless clothes so many shoppers are looking for these days, even from Burberry.

-- Booth Moore in London

Burberry fall-winter 2011 runway collection photo gallery

Photos: Looks from the Burbery fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during London Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

Your morning fashion and beauty report: London Fashion Week begins, MAC and Lady Gaga collaborate and Captain Jack Sparrow inspires OPI

On the heels of New York Fashion Week (which ended Thursday), the style world turns to London, where showings of designers' fall-winter 2011 women's collections are starting up. Among the expected highlights: On Monday afternoon, Burberry Prorsum will be the first of the London events to live-stream video of its runway show on giant screens in Piccadilly Circus. [Telegraph]

Retailers reportedly were impressed by the glamour on display in the New York shows. (We were too, here at All the Rage!) [WWD] (Subscription required.)

OPI's latest collection for spring is inspired by "Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides." The names of the six limited-edition shades evoke the adventures of Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow: the purple Planks a Lot, the pink Sparrow Me the Drama and the gray Skull & Glossbones, for instance. They'll go on sale in May. Honestly, I think I can get way more into this than the OPI-Justin Bieber collaboration, and that one was a bestseller! [StyleList]

Meanwhile, the Sephora by OPI collection inspired by "Glee" has arrived. [BellaSugar] 

South African double-amputee sprinter Oscar Pistorius is the new face of Thierry Mugler's A*Men men's scent. Pistorius, 25, is a triple world-record holder and runs on high-tech, futuristic-looking artificial legs. [WWD] 

And speaking of scents, Dita Von Teese is reportedly working with French perfumers to create one. What will it smell like? "Velvet sensuality with a dash of vulgarity," she said. Translation: Don't expect a fruity floral. [FabSugar UK]

Lady Gaga and MAC's charitable Viva Glam collaboration has two new products hitting shelves: the new buff-peach Gaga 2 Lipstick ($15) and Gaga 2 Lipglass ($15). [BellaSugar] 

"Project Runway's" Tim Gunn has another book to look forward to: "Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet," due on shelves this fall. [People] 

Vanessa Hudgens' hand-and-arm tattoos at New York Fashion Week were of the temporary, henna variety. As I keep, um, preaching: Temporary is the way to go with these things, just like hair color, eyeshadow, lipstick, nail polish ... [People] 

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow. Credit: Stephen Vaughan / Associated Press

[Updated: Photo gallery added] Milan Fashion Week: Rain on the runway underscores Burberry Prorsum's stormy weather appeal

Burberry's chief creative officer, Christopher Bailey, made it rain on the (indoor) runway for the finale of the Burberry Prorsum show, sending his models down the slick catwalk wearing transparent hooded ponchos.

Sure it was gimmicky, but it helped underscore the Fall and Winter 2011 season's emphasis on protective outerwear pieces, standouts of which included a boxy, oversized blanket coat in a bold blue check and a wool duffel coat in bright tangerine.

Insulation from the cold also came in the form of fur, which was generously used on the lapels of a double-breasted three-quarter-length coat, patched into chunky cable-knit sweaters, piled onto driving caps and wrapped around holdalls and tote bags.

As part of Burberry's evolution of the runway-to-retail concept, outerwear and accessories from the show were made instantly available for pre-order (with delivery promised within two months) through Jan. 23 at the brand's website.

-- Adam Tschorn in Milan, Italy

Photos: Looks from the Fall and Winter 2011 Burberry Prorsum men's runway collection, Jan. 15, 2011, at Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson & Peter Stigter / For the Los Angeles Times

Your morning fashion and beauty report: Kate Middleton, Emma Watson, Vera Wang and Kelly Osbourne

-- Kate Middleton? Ever heard of her? Just a few hours after the royal engagement was announced (Booth Moore's take on the fashion icon in waiting is a good read), Middleton madness launched into full force. “ 'It’s open season on Kate Middleton,' Andrew Neil, the journalist and former Lord Rector of the University of St. Andrews during Middleton’s and Prince William’s time there, told the BBC on Tuesday." [WWD] 

-- Can't wait for the sequel to the 1982 film "Tron"? Well, then, check out the Opening Ceremony/Disney collaboration that is on sale now. [The Cut] And catch up with more Tron paraphernalia, thanks to our very own Adam Tschorn.

-- Can't wait for Urban Outfitters to get a little more preppy? Oddly enough, the wait is almost over. J. Press, purveyors of "pretty sportswear for men," is teaming up with the chain for a collection that goes on sale Dec. 1. [The Moment]

-- Can't wait to get a Burberry trench just like the one Emma Watson was recently wearing upon arrival at JFK, the one with the leather sleeves? Well, you can't. It's a one of a kind. The good news is that Burberry is rumored to be offering a customizing service for e-shoppers in the spring. [People]

-- Can't wait to order your Vera Wang bridesmaids' dresses from her stores? Well, there's been a change of plans. The House of Wang has decided to design bridesmaids gear only for David's Bridal. [The Cut]

-- What else? Well, just a few days ago Melissa Magsaysay put "Gossip Girl" style under the microscope. So guess who's on the cover of Vogue's best dressed issue? Blake Lively. [The Cut]

-- And, finally, in another sign of the changing times: the cover girl for Shape magazine's December issue? Kelly Osbourne. You can check out the latest bikini body on Nov. 22.

-- Alice Short

Photo: Christmas is coming! Workers at Aynsley China have already started to produce commemorative plates, cups and mugs to mark the engagement of Britain's Prince William to Kate Middleton. Credit: Christopher Furlong / Getty Images

 

Burberry’s 'Retail Theater' brings clothes to customers right off the runway with the touch of an iPad

 
Burberry’s “Retail Theater” takes the concept of a trunk show to a whole new level. During the British label’s spring/summer 2011 show, happening on Sept. 21, 25 Burberry boutiques around the globe will stream the runway show live for customers.  Should they like anything they see on the screen, customers can then order the item immediately via iPad. Merchandise will be shipped out to arrive in a matter of a few weeks rather than having to wait the usual four to six months for spring 2011 orders to arrive.

Talk about fast fashion! Not only is the British house bringing its collection to loyal customers more quickly, but people can now also decide for themselves what they want to hang in their closets rather than be at the mercy of buyers and retailers -- as well as have items that otherwise may not have been produced.

Between the live streaming that more and more brands are doing each season, events such as “Fashion’s Night Out: The Show” and now the direct-to-consumer runway shows, the public has almost the same access as some of the world’s top editors and buyers when it comes to seeing next season’s collections.

“Retail Theater” will be held in Burberry boutiques globally, including Beverly Hills and Costa Mesa. Don’t live near a Burberry store? You can order merchandise on their website as well – it will be delivered within seven weeks of purchase. And this isn’t a BYOiPad event either. Burberry stores will have those on hand for easy ordering.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photo: Screen shots of Burberry’s live stream. Credit: Burberry

[For the record, 11:59 a.m.: An earlier version of this post incorrectly said the runway show would be streamed for customers in groups of 25.]

 

Local raid nets $12 million in bogus Burberry, Hermes and Chanel

Our compatriots over at L.A. Now just posted news of a raid last week that netted counterfeit knock-offs of luxury labels including Burberry, Hermes and Chanel that would have fetched some $12 million if sold as the real deal. According to Robert Faturechi's piece, the haul included some 47,000 wallets, watches and other items, and more than 30 people were arrested. 

Read more details here.  

-- Adam Tschorn

Paris' house of knock-offs

Along for the sting

Your morning fashion and beauty report: George Clooney testifies in fashion case. Jennifer Aniston stars in racy fragrance ads. Balenciaga's Ghesquiere to be honored

Among the latest designer-retailer collaborations, Norma Kamali will launch a line of sleepwear at Wal-Mart this fall. [WWD] (Subscription required)

Times fashion critic Booth Moore wrote about Burberry's makeover on Sunday, and it's continuing with a big push into China, where the design firm just completed a $107.8-million deal to purchase retail operations. [WWD] (Subscription required)

Now even mannequins are entering the size wars: Those used at Club Monaco look "emaciated," some observers say. [Huffington Post]

The Fashion Group International plans to honor Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquiere with its Superstar Award at its annual gala this fall. [WWD]  

Jennifer Aniston's new perfume, Lolavie, will launch exclusively at Harrod's in London this week, and she's starring in a racy ad campaign to promote the fragrance. [Daily Mail]

We just love weddings (it's the dresses!) here at All the Rage, and we love the strapless Ines Di Santo gown that Julie Landrum wore Saturday at her Newport Beach wedding to Boston Celtics player Paul Pierce. [People]

And some girls really know how to maximize the wedding gown opportunity: Carrie Underwood wore two Monique Lhuillier dresses for her marriage: one for the ceremony, and one for dancing at the reception. [People] 

George Clooney testified in an Italian court in a case involving clothing forgers who fraudulently put his name on a fashion line. [The Cut]

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Nicolas Ghesquiere  Credit: Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times 

Meet Burberry designer Christopher Bailey in L.A.

I caught up with Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey on Wednesday at a house above Sunset in Beverly Hills. As we sat outside in the afternoon heat and watched the ice cubes melt in our water glasses, my makeup stayed put, which is good news, because I was wearing Burberry's new cosmetics.

Bailey was in town to promote the line now hitting Nordstrom stores and Burberry.com, He hosted an English tea with L.A. flowers such as Rachel Zoe, Shiva Rose, Jayma Mays and Kate Bosworth. The cosmetics are all about achieving the natural look, for women "who want to accentuate what they have," says Bailey. In other words, no pancakes here.

The products come in metal packaging etched with Burberry check. The foundation is very sheer, in shades based on the iconic khaki trench coat. The blush and eyeshadow are translucent, too, in stormy crimsons, taupes, blues and grays.

More on Bailey in Sunday's Fashion Diary. Until then, you can meet him on Thursday when he'll be showing the fall ready-to-wear collection from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. at the boutique.

Burberry, 9560 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 550-4500.

-- Booth Moore

Photo: Burberry Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey

For the record, 8:59 a.m.: An earlier version of this post referred to Bailey as Burberry's creative director.