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Category: Bottega Veneta

Milan Fashion Week: Bottega Veneta pares down the silhouette and ramps up the prints

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It seems that each season, some menswear designer or other can't resist the urge to put a one-piece jumpsuit on the runway. And no matter what it's made of, or how it's cut, it ends up looking ridiculous. (Not quite this ridiculous, but close.)

"I've always liked the idea of a coverall or a jumpsuit, of a single piece of clothing that works for a man the way a dress does for a woman," Bottega Veneta's creative director Tomas Maier explained in the show notes. "But a tailored jumpsuit is impractical. So we started with the idea of an all-in-one and related it to the suit."

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The resulting silhouette is neat, precise and pared back -- sleeves are fitted, trousers are tapered, and traditional collar points jettisoned in favor of simple Mandarin collars. And in looks where the jackets and trousers were of the same color, did very much resemble a one-piece coverall.

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Paring the silhouette back to its bare minimum afforded Maier the opportunity to experiment to his heart's content with what he put on it -- and he clearly had a field day layering on various prints, patterns and treatments.

Seersuckers and shirt checks were overprinted, stripes were layered on stripes, twills were printed to resemble tweeds, checks were printed on leather, and streaky, wiggly lines that looked like wood grain were printed on sweaters.

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But for all the over-printing and the patch-pocket safari jackets zipped up to the Adam's apple, the best pieces in the collection were the more traditional-looking suits -- in solid colors (muted green or a vibrant blue tourmaline), with the over-print just peeking out from a jacket or cuff.

-- Adam Tschorn, reporting from Milan 

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Milan Fashion Week: Bottega Veneta's lovely, loopy ladies

Milan Fashion Week: At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier perfects the masculine/feminine look

Photos: Looks from the Bottega Veneta spring / summer 2012 runway collection shown during Milan Fashion Week. Credit: (Top) Pier Marco Tacca / EPA; (Middle and bottom) Olivier Morin / AFP / Getty Images.

Milan Fashion Week: The top shows and takeaways

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The big news in Milan was the continued interest in updating classic couture shapes with unusual colors, fabrications and surface embellishments.

We saw it done best at Jil Sander, where designer Raf Simons made outsize drop-shoulder coats, tunics and dresses with martingale belts look completely modern, by showing them with sleek, skiwear-inspired knits and stirrup pants.

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At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier used ladylike, 1960s-inspired coats and sleeveless shift dresses as canvases for incredible work with layers of lace and print.

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The 1960s trend took a mod turn at Versace, Alberta Ferretti and most notably at Prada, where coats and coatdresses with low-slung belts came in solids, windowpane checks, decorated with contrast piping, shag fur or silver-dollar sized paillettes.

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Fashion's love affair with fur is still going strong. Marni's Consuelo Castiglione was the most inventive with fur, showing a modern-looking, zip-front mink blouson jacket, a full-length fur coat sheared into a diamond pattern, and a stiff, molded black leather jacket with a broadtail hem.

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Also carrying over from spring, vivid color, seen most clearly at Gucci. Forest green, rust, mustard yellow, peach and teal blue were all hot hues, used to spectacular effect in Fendi's collection of arty, English country chic.

As for accessories, the Mary Jane with a chunky heel is the must-have. And why carry just one bag when you can carry two?

Now onto Paris. But not before naming the top five collections out of Milan: Bottega Veneta. Fendi, Marni, Prada and Jil Sander.

--Booth Moore in Milan

PHOTOS: Milan Fashion Week fall-winter 2011 top five shows photo gallery

Photos: Looks from the Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Alberta Ferretti, Prada, Marni, Gucci and Fendi fall-winter 2011 runway collections shown during Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.

Milan Fashion Week: Bottega Veneta's lovely, loopy ladies

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Tomas Maier showed a crack collection for Bottega Veneta. So many of this season's runway shows seem to be about off-the-wall, eccentric lady style. But his take on it was perfect in every way.

There was a retro 1960s, Mad Women thing going on, with messy beehive hairdos and a loungey soundtrack.   

But the incredible workmanship that went into creating the unusual surface textures on these clothes made them completely fresh. A soft-shouldered pink-and-orange mohair coat had a nubby, lived-in look. (So that old pill-y coat gathering dust in your closet really can be worn again!)

Bot2 There were also tons of terrific, ladylike suits with boxy jackets. One version, in cream, had a pleated skirt with a sooty hem that brought to mind tarnished silver.

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Dresses and cardigans in scribbly prints were obscured with fabric and shredded lace overlays, evoking a disintegrating glamour. They were the kind of pieces you wanted to look at again and again.

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Bags and shoes were also richly textured -- fraying patchwork itrecciato leather clutches, and velvet satchels that had been acid-washed. Then there was the jewelry. Bottega Veneta has been on a roll with jewelry. For fall, the standout was a little piece of Surrealism for your lapel: a "painted eye" brooch.

-- Booth Moore in Milan

Photos: Looks from the Bottega Veneta fall-winter 2011 runway collection shown during Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times

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Your morning fashion and beauty report: Ashton and Demi design for Valentine's Day, Kim Kardashian regrets nude photos, Julianne Moore looks lovely in clothed photos

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Demi Moore, with some assistance from husband Ashton Kutcher, teamed with jeweler Jack Vartanian to design some Valentine's Day baubles shaped like little handcuffs. (Um, seems to me a psychiatrist could have a field day with that one!) Prices range from $710 to $2,140 for pieces in variations of white, yellow and rose gold and black and white diamonds, which will be for sale through Feb. 14 on JackVartanian.com. Fifty percent of sales will be donated to the Demi and Ashton (DNA) Foundation, a nonprofit organization that raises awareness about child sex slavery -- including prostitution here in the U.S. [InStyle]

Here at All the Rage, we are normally all about clothes, but sometimes when a fashionable someone removes hers, we think it's worth a mention too. Remember Kim Kardashian appearing in the altogether on the cover of W magazine last fall, standing proud with only some strategically placed strips of type leaving anything to the imagination? On her new show, "Kourtney & Kim Take New York," Sunday night, she expressed shock and outrage that so much of her was on display. What did she think was going to happen? Honestly, girls, you take your clothes off for a camera and you really never know what the outcome is going to be. [Popeater] 

Julianne Moore is fully clothed -- and should have nothing to regret -- in her pretty new ads for Talbots. Talbots' chief creative officer, Michael Smaldone, says the clothier is thrilled to have Moore for the spring campaign because she "exemplifies everything we want as the face of the brand. She's a very active, beautiful, soulful woman." [People] 

The king and queen of preppy-dom -- that would be clothing empire head Tommy Hilfiger and "The Official Preppy Handbook" author Lisa Birnbach -- are teaming up for a new Hilfiger capsule collection this spring. [WWD] (Subscription required.) 

Mark Badgley and James Mischka will debut their Mark + James handbags for fall. The line has about 35 pieces and will be priced from $150 to $300. [WWD]

Giselle Bundchen made a rare return to the catwalk for Sao Paulo Fashion Week in Brazil. [Telegraph] 

FabSugar rounded up some looks from those runways. [FabSugar] 

And also at Sao Paulo, fresh from a starring role on the cover of LOVE magazine, transsexual model Lea T made her catwalk debut over the weekend. [Telegraph]

Nine d'Urso, model Inès de la Fressange's daughter, will be the face of Bottega Veneta's first fragrance, due out in September. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Ashton Kutcher and Demi Moore. Credit: WireImage 

Your Stylist: The rise of the flat for spring

Image stylist and market editor Melissa Magsaysay soothes your sartorial woes in the weekly Your Stylist post.


Flats 

In this installment of “Your Stylist,” we address the down-to-earth footwear from the spring 2011 runways. It wasn’t the over-the-top heels or statement shoes that caught my eye. Quite the opposite, actually. It was the easy, casual and subtle appeal of all the flats and sandals styled with cocktail dresses; long, loose pants and cute day dresses that looked fresh and most appealing.

Women's SS11_Women's SS11_L Low There was hardly a high heel at the Lanvin show, where ankle-strap sandals were worn with form-fitting dresses. The sandals took some formality out of the dresses and showed not only the versatility of each piece but also designer Alber Elbaz’s vision for a woman dressing for day to night. 

Michael Kors also sent many of his models (including the men, in mandals) down the runway wearing a small platform sole clog or completely flat sandals that looked great with a lot of the pants, as well as with knee-length skirts and A-line dresses.

And at Bottega Veneta, chunky but sleek toe-ring sandals were paired with leather pants and floaty, floor-length dresses for a look that was both confident and casual.

While flats are an obvious choice when it comes to comfort, some of us (especially my fellow 5-foot-5-and-under friends) are addicted to the height a heel can give us. But if there was ever a season to experiment with the versatility of flats, spring is it. Try ditching Img11930 the chunky wood wedges and tie on a pair of super '70s-looking shoes like this lace-up suede-and-leather sandal/shoe hybrid from Tod’s. They are great for daytime, worn with a little white dress or a white men’s-style button-down tucked into a denim skirt.

Since you won’t be gaining height when wearing flats, make sure that your skirt or shorts hit at a flattering place on your leg. Nude or light-brown sandals will keep the leg looking elongated and will also work with most ensembles. And when trying to wear flats with long and loose trousers, it’s OK for the hem of the pants to slouch a little near the foot. The look, after all, is easy and effortless.

-- Melissa Magsaysay

Photos: Top left, a look from the Lanvin spring/summer 2011 runway show. Top right, a sample from the Michael Kors show. Credit: Yannis Vlamos / gorunway.com

Middle: Bottega Veneta calf sandal in nero (shown at the spring/summer 2011 runway show), $590 at Bottega Veneta, Beverly Hills. Credit: Bottega Veneta

Bottom: Tod's suede and leather lace-up sandal, $565 at Tod's, Beverly Hills. Credit: Tod's

Send your style queries to melissa.magsaysay@latimes.com

Milan Fashion Week: At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier perfects the masculine/feminine look

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Saturday morning started with a knockout collection from Tomas Maier, who made significant strides toward ensuring that Bottega Veneta's clothes will no longer be secondary to the accessories.

How did he do it? By putting his own spin on the masculine-meets-feminine look that is emerging as a big fall trend, and producing a collection wide-reaching enough to draw everyone in, and make this label a destination for dressing from day to night.
Continue reading »

Bottega Veneta's fashion detox: carefree and calm for Spring 2010

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There is a mini-rebellion being staged in Milan against the hyper-embellished party clothes as anytime clothes formula (splash sequins on anything and it has a better chance of selling), and the start of something cleaner and more authentic. Think of it as fashion detox.

It began with Raf Simons' sexy take on deconstruction at Jil Sander, when he laid bare the whole messy creative process and showed us the passion behind a frayed edge and a slashed skirt. And it continued Saturday at Bottega Veneta, where Tomas Maier was just as carefree, but much more calm.

In the notes, Maier described the collection as "architectural," but "organic" might have been a better word, because the back-to-basics looks seemed to flow into one another. "The clothes are 'blank' until she puts them on,' Maier wrote in the show notes. "Then the shape of her body, her movements, and the color of her shoes, her bag, her jewelry--all these personal characteristics and choices complete the look."

That meant summer clothes with the ease of uniforms in a clean palette of white, ivory and straw. Dresses were not embellished, but instead draped and wrapped with asymmetrical folds at the neckline or at the hips, creating side pockets. Pants and shorts were cut square and roomy, some with folds creating an obi belt effect at the waistlines.

Maier designs in broad strokes. So rather than throwing everything in the junk drawer on a dress,  decorative details amounted to a single sculptural frill in a contrasting shade of yolk yellow, fever red or Delft blue.

It wasn't minimalism, but individualism -- letting the woman wear the clothes instead of the clothes wear the woman, and it was a breath of fresh air.

-- Booth Moore

Photo: A look from Bottega Veneta's Spring/Summer 2010 women's RTW collection, shown Saturday during Milan Fashion Week. Photo credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

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Photos: Bottega Veneta's spring-summer 2010 runway

All the Rage: More from Milan Fashion Week

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Follow fashion critic Booth Moore on Twitter.


MFW: Bottega Veneta goes sculptural and soft for fall

Rage_bottega MILAN -- "Sculptural" is a watch word to describe many of the collections we're seeing this season. But at Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier showed us how sculptural clothes can be done in a forward-thinking and sensual way, heightened by rich fabrics and a quiet palette all his own, with charmingly subtle colors such as "bramble," "truffle," "grape" and "elephant."

The key piece was the dress -- silk twill, wool or soft nappa -- in different versions of an envelope shape, with soft flaps in back or on the sides.

Everything felt soft and romantic -- a faded rose, shiny nappa trench coat, a sleeveless, truffle-colored, tufted wool gauze dress with a sheer back, and a lilac cashmere jersey dress with a ruched bodice and bra top.

One of Maier's great assets is measured restraint, which he demonstrated brilliantly on silk velvet dresses, backless except for a few ropes of rhinestones holding them to the body, something that easily could have looked trashy but instead looked elegant.

The ivory chiffon goddess gowns at the end of the show were also stunning in their simplicity, with double-layer skirts, braided halters or belts.

The collection was so riveting, I forgot to look at the shoes and bags, which is saying something for a brand that started as a leathergoods maker.

-- Booth Moore

All the Rage's Milan Fashion Week coverage

Get more Milan updates: Follow Booth on Twitter

Photo: A look from Bottega Venet'as Fall 2009 collection shown during Milan Fashion Week on Saturday. Credit: AP Photo /Luca Bruno.

Fall 2009: Bottega Veneta takes a page from Mr. Rogers' playbook

Paging Mr. Rogers! At Bottega Veneta, creative director Tomas Maier chose to make tBottega_mcff09_067he cardigan sweater his touchstone for the season's overarching theme of familiarity. Not the actual cardigan sweater, mind you, but the silhouette, fabrication and attitude.
"It's an unusual time, obviously, and we thought very carefully about what our customer wants and needs right now," he said in the show notes. "So we started with the cardigan, which is soft and unassuming but also confident and timeless."
The result is soft-shouldered wool coats, suede blazers, flannel pants and cashmere turtlenecks and sweaters, each piece looking just broken-in enough to sleep in. Combined with an earthy color palette of bone white, ash and graphite grays and a shade of brown he calls "truffle," the combined effect is, like Saturday's shows, getting back to the earth, to the roots, hearkening back.

-- Adam Tschorn

More Milan Fashion Week

Follow Adam on Twitter

 

Photo: Bottega Veneta Fall 2009 menswear show in Milan, Jan. 18. Credit: Peter Stigter


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