Paris Fashion Week: Adam Kimmel's runway debut is a dark take on surfers and psychedelia

Adam Kimmel shifted gears this season, choosing to show his menswear collection on the Paris runway instead of in the presentation format he has used in the past.

That made it hard to tell whether his psycho-surfer-themed spring/summer 2012 collection suffered as a result of not being showcased as memorably as some of his collections in recent seasons (a casino full of clowns, a courtyard of of Snoop Dogg-styled gentlemen and their tricked-out cars, or a Pacific Northwest set piece behind glass, to name just a few), or if this was just a rare occasion when Kimmel's collection failed to catch the killer wave and ride it all the way into shore.

In the show notes, Kimmel described his collection as "dark surfing with a psychedelic undertone" and said that his goal was to create clothes that captured the spirt of the surfer without the traditional look. ("I think surfers are always cooler than the clothes they tend to wear," he notes.)

That meant forsaking the loud prints and bright colors for a dialed-down black and olive color palette with a few pops of red. A Hawaiian floral print that appeared on several shorts was muted to shadow status by a black overdye treatment, and the brightest colors in the entire collection came on black T-shirts with a custom psychedelic print that evoked the '60s-era concert poster art of Alton Kelley and Rick Griffin. (If you stared at the print long enough, you could make out the words "Adam Kimmel" in the design.)  

The collection, which included reversible blazers, bomber jackets with detachable collars and sleeves, and resin-coated cotton outerwear --  was full of athletic-inspired touches. Wetsuit-style stitching was used on many of the pieces, mesh knit sweaters sported neoprene elbow pads, and some jacket sleeves had surf-wax pouches.

But the runway format didn't allow for a full appreciation of the functionality of many of the pieces -- a signature of Kimmel's collections. Backstage after the show, I asked Kimmel about his decision to take his collection to the runway.

"I just thought it was time to take that next step," he said.

There's no argument there. Kimmel's clothes deserve to be shown on the Paris runway. I just hope that as he gets ready to catch the killer waves of future seasons, he doesn't forget to show us all that lies beneath the surface.

-- Adam Tschorn, reporting from Paris

Photos: Looks from the Adam Kimmel spring/summer 2012 runway collection shown during Paris Fashion Week. Credit: Patrice Stable

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'George Condo: A Collection of Etchings' at the Rutberg gallery, June 18 to Sept. 3

Works by contemporary American artist George Condo will be part of an exhibition at the Jack Rutberg Fine Arts gallery on La Brea Avenue from June 18 to Sept. 3.

Unless you can wear one of the works, of what interest is this information to readers of All The Rage?

I thought you'd never ask.

Back during the February New York Fashion Week shows, I briefly mentioned the pop-culture Condo-mania that seemed to be taking Manhattan by storm -- his artwork served as the inspiration for a recent collection by menswear designer Adam Kimmel, appeared on the cover of a Kanye West album, and was, at the time, on display at the New Museum.

Although a modified version of the "George Condo: Mental States" exhibition headed east (it opens at the  Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, in Rotterdam, Netherlands, on June 25) included some mammoth wall-size paintings, the 13 works at the Rutberg gallery are etchings from 1991 that gallery owner Jack Rutberg describes as more intimate works that display "a more distilled aesthetic, rooted through great draftsmanship and line." including a series of works that pay homage to both the Spanish Masters and Miles Davis entitled “More Sketches of Spain -- for Miles Davis.” 

When I spoke to Rutberg about the upcoming exhibition today, he told me he'd just acquired a significant George Condo painting  that would also be on display. "It's an untitled painting from 1983 that was part of Condo's first solo exhibition -- which was here in Los Angeles." 

That L.A. show -- at the now-defunct Ulrike Kantor Gallery -- was followed in quick succession by two shows in New York City, and Rutberg called it a "catapult to Condo's career." 

Before I left New York I did manage to fit in a visit to the New Museum (where West's album "My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy" was for sale in the gift shop along with posters and catalogs of the exhibition) and felt like gazing upon the twisted visages and gonzo portraiture afforded a peek behind the curtain at what seemed to resonate so deeply with artists in the fashion and music world.

Perhaps a visit to the Rutberg gallery will afford others a similar glimpse.

"George Condo: a collection of etchings" at Jack Rutberg Fine Arts, 357 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, June 18 to Sept. 3,  Tuesday to Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., aSaturday 10  a.m. to  5 p.m. 

-- Adam Tschorn

Photo: The exhibition includes George Condo's etching "Untitled #4, More Sketches of Spain -- for Miles Davis" (1991). Credit: Courtesy of Jack Rutberg Fine Arts. 

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Tommy Hilfiger hosts a star-studded housewarming for his Prep World pop-up

Designer Tommy Hilfiger and author Lisa Birnbach hosted a star-studded housewarming party for the Prep World pop-up store at the Grove shopping center Thursday night that drew the likes of Hailee Steinfeld, Malin Ackerman, Bijou Phillips, Danny Masterson, Melissa George and Cobie Smulders. 

With the exception of a few Goths inexplicably lurking in the corner, the crowd lounging on the  lawn surrounding the temporary beach cottage (plopped smack in the middle of the Grove's open space, just east of the fountain, through Sunday) was dressed in appropriately preppy summer attire -- a sea of seersucker, madras and khaki in a palette of navy blue and white punctuated with pops of bright red and green, and a naval flotilla's worth of anchors (one of the major motifs in the Prep World capsule collection, anchors appear on men's chinos and shorts, dresses, scarves, tank tops and pillows).

PHOTOS: More photos from the event

Steinfeld, accompanied by her parents Peter and Cheri, turned out in head-to-toe Tommy, including a navy windowpane plaid jacket, white-and-yellow striped blouse, white leather pleated skirt and white canvas high-heel loafers. She told me she's getting ready to start production on her next film -- playing Juliet in a Carlo Carlei-directed version of "Romeo and Juliet."

The evening's soundtrack came courtesy of Danny Masterson, who was barely recognizable in the DJ booth due to his full Hilfiger regalia -- a light blue linen pinstripe blazer, white linen button-down, white chinos, black-and-white check pocket square and navy-and-tan saddle shoes.

The New York-based Birnbach, who served as a prep expert ("prepspert"?) and consultant for the Prep World capsule collection, and has been jetting around the globe researching how the prep aesthetic is interpreted in far-flung places like Tokyo, Stockholm and Milan, Italy, was in the (beach) house as well, wearing one of the navy, red and white anchor-print silk halter dresses from the Prep World collection, and accompanied by daughters Maisie and Boco.

When I had a chance to chat with Birnbach earlier in the day, she told me that her research had yielded some interesting insights. "I think if there's another iteration of the Prep World collection, I might have some more input." One of the more suprising things she discovered, she said, was how many of the folks she saw on the streets of Tokyo who had dogs dressed to the (ca)nines in all manner of clothes and costumes.

For his part, Hilfiger says another season of the limited-edition Prep World wares seems likely given that the 60-piece capsule collection has been the best-selling merchandise since it hit Tommy Hilfiger flagship boutiques around the world last month. "The collection's sense of humor seems to really resonate internationally," he said.

Asked what the next Prep World collection might include, Hilfiger referenced Birnbach's Tokyo trip. "So w're thinking about doing a few pieces of dog clothing next time."

Tommy Hilfiger polos for the Pekingese and madras for the mastiff? We'll just have to wait and see.

Tommy Hilfiger Prep World Pop-Up at the Grove, open Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. 

-- Adam Tschorn

Top photos, from left, Tommy Hilfiger with Arielle Kebbel; author Lisa Birnbach with daughters Boco, left, and Maisie; actress Hailee Steinfeld.  Middle photo: actresses Melissa George, left, and Cobie Smulders. Bottom photo: Danny Masterson in the DJ booth. Credit: Donato Sardella and John Sciulli / Getty Images. 

PHOTOS: Prep World pop-up photo gallery

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Your Morning Fashion and Beauty Report: Kate Bosworth and Cher Coulter's L.A. inspirations. Sara Rue's wedding gown details.

All the details are out about the gown that "Shedding for the Wedding" host Sara Rue wore when she married Kevin Price on Saturday. She chose the "Dahlia" dress from designer Amsale Aberra  -- a strapless silk taffeta ball gown with ruched sweetheart neckline and natural waist. The gown, made with 45 yards of silk taffeta, featured a skirt adorned with delicate hand-pleated embroidery from the designer’s Blue Label Collection. [People]

Actress Kate Boswoth and stylist Cher Coulter's JewelMint jewelry line definitely has an L.A. vibe. So where in Los Angeles do they go for inspiration? The Pasadena Rose Bowl Flea Market, the Fairfax Market, Opening Ceremony, Confederacy and Satine. When not working, Kate likes to chill at the Huntington Gardens; Cher at Chateau Marmont. And the two are excited about their latest venture, the JewelMint Celebrity Curator Series, which offers pieces selected by a celebrity (this month it's Rachel Bilson) with proceeds going to benefit the person's favorite charity. [PopSugar LA]

In preparation for the 2012 London Olympics, the Badminton World Federation has decreed that female elite players must wear skirts or dresses to create "a more attractive presentation." Athletes aren't happy with the restriction and are seeking to have the ruling overturned. [New York Times]

Universal announced it plans to partner with Tommy Hilfiger -- the designer, not the brand -- to produce a line of rock 'n' roll-inspired clothing for high-end boutiques and department stores. [Los Angeles Times]

ANDAM, the French organization devoted to the development of young fashion talent, announced on Thursday six finalists for its annual award: Adam Kimmel, Anthony Vaccarello, Commuun, Jeremy Laing, Matthew Harding and Yiqing Yin. The winner receives a cash prize plus a yearlong mentorship by Ralph Toledano, formerly of Chloé. [Style File]     

Topshop revealed a "secret store" Wednesday night -- a pop-up housed inside its flagship branch in central London's Oxford Circus. The pop-up carries Topshop Boutique designs that never made it to production, as well as pieces from Topshop designer collaborations, including pieces by top London Fashion Week and New York names. The pop-up is expected to be around for only two weeks. [Telegraph]

-- Susan Denley

Photo: Kate Bosworth. Credit: Paul Buck / EPA

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Trendspotting: Menswear's on a mountain high

Are mountains having a moment? It sure feels like it, based on the recently wrapped menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York City, which served up climbing ropes and carabiners alongside the clothes and found inspiration in the mountain climbers of Yosemite's Half Dome, Europe's Alpine inhabitants, and the Himalayan landscape.

The approach to the summit may have actually started back with the presentation of the spring and summer 2011 collections -- where Daiki Suzuki's final collection for Woolrich Woolen Mills was inspired by the mountains of Yosemite National Park  -- but the ascent has unquestionably quickened with the most recent round of shows.

In Milan, Etro's collection was full of Tyrolean inspired woven jackets, headgear and embroidery detailing, and the show notes referenced Tibetan summits, Himalayan folklore, and Thomas Mann's novel "The Magic Mountain."

Condo-mania in Manhattan: From fashion to album covers and a new retrospective, artist George Condo is popping up all over pop culture

New York City-based artist George Condo seems to be having a bit of a pop-culture moment.  I first became aware of his creepy ouevre -- think -- last January, when fashion designer Adam Kimmel used Condo's life and artwork as inspiration for a fall/winter 2010 menswear collection -- going with Condo on field trips to casinos (the artist has a fondness for gambling, Kimmel told me) and having some of Condo's outlandish canvas creations translated into grotesque masks that were worn by the models clustered in a casino setting at Kimmel's Paris presentation.

The original cover art for Kanye West's most recent album, "My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy" (released in November) -- a portrait of West cavorting with a winged nude female creature that supposedly caused a kerfuffle with retailers  -- was a Condo painting comissioned by the rapper. An alternative cover for the album -- depicting a ballerina holding a drink glass -- was also painted by Condo.

But Condo-mania really started to sink in during my flight to the European men's runway shows earlier this month. The Jan. 17 issue of the New Yorker featured the first of that magazine's interminably long profiles that I actually managed to read in its entirety -- in a single sitting. It was a profile of Condo written by Calvin Tomkins and titled: "Portraits of Imaginary People: How George Condo Reclaimed Old Master Painting."

What I'd forgotten since then -- but was reminded of Wednesday as I was flipping through a copy of Details magazine while en route to New York City for Fashion Week (which gets underway in earnest Thursday morning) -- was that the profile was due in large part to a nearly 30-year retrospective of the artist's twisted take on portraiture that opened at the New Museum of Contemporary Art here on Jan.  26.

Schedule permitting, I hope to check it out while I'm here. Partly to satisfy my curiousity, but parlty because his creepy, freakish menagerie of twisted imperfections feels like it might be the perfect antidote to a week's worth of perfectly prepped and primped presentations of flawless fashion folk.

-- Adam Tschorn, reporting from New York City

Photos: Left, a visitor to the Cosmoscow modern art show in Moscow walks past George Condo's "Girl With Ponytail" in December. Credit: Natalia Kolesnikova / AFP/Getty. Right, a scene from fashion designer Adam Kimmel's Condo-inspired fall/winter 2010 menswear presentation in Paris in January 2010. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times.

Paris Fashion Week: Adam Kimmel mines the mysteries of the Pacific Northwest

Adam Kimmel was the second designer at Paris Fashion Week to explicitly reference the ouevre of David Lynch (the first was Paul Helbers at Louis Vuitton). Kimmel's presentation drew on that peculiar "Twin Peaks" vibe of mystery and uneasiness, with the expectation that something unseemly was lurking behind the next redwood.

But FBI agent Dale Cooper and company were just part of the equation. (Remember: The owls are not what they seem.) The major inspiration behind Kimmel's Pacific Northwest collection was artist Dan Attoe, a painter and sculptor (and founder of the Paintallica art group) whose work taps into the gritty underbelly of the world where the highway curves through the giant redwood forests and motorcycle punk meets mysticism.

Although Attoe's artwork, including towering stands of trees and Bigfoot creatures, appear on T-shirts,