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Musings on the culture of keeping up appearances

All the Rage

Category: Retro fashions

The James Dean 'Giant' coat, revived

JamesDeanGiantWe've all been there: Watching a classic film, drooling over the clothes and wishing we could figure out where to buy them. Classic clothier Bench & Loom is now making that dream come true for one very specific item: The Jett Rink ranch coat worn by James Dean in the 1956 film "Giant."

Last fall, the website invited visitors to vote on which classic clothing item they'd like revived  from the Oscar-winning film co-starring Rock Hudson and Elizabeth Taylor. The Phoenix Project, as it's called, gave visitors three options: A denim jacket worn by a cowboy, a field jacket worn by director George Stevens and the shearling-trimmed ranch coat worn by Dean, which was the overwhelming winner.

Jettrinkcoatfront"Guys I know don't talk about their clothes that often. When we do, it's when we're watching an old movie and see something cool," said Jared Zaugg, who co-founded Bench & Loom last fall with his wife, Brooke. "We thought there was something to that: Being able to find something on somebody you admire that has style."

To re-create the coat, the Zauggs borrowed a similar coat from a Phoenix Project voter who had saved a jacket from the same defunct manufacturer. They also worked with Japanese designer Atsu Tagaya and the Japanese manufacturer Stevenson Overall Company to make subtle improvements that added to the coat's wearability without detracting from its overall character.

.Instead of the itchy wool collar of the original, the coat is trimmed in alpaca shearling at the neckline. The silhouette was narrowed to make it less boxy, and the sleeves were lined with man-made silk Cupra to make it easier to slide arms in and out. The exterior of the double-breasted coat is twill and features looped button closures, two large front flap pockets and two chest slit pockets.

"Practicality is important. We don't just want to create costume," said Zaugg, adding that it was equally important to work with a reputable, longstanding manufacturer that pays extraordinary attention to detail, like the rest of the heritage jackets, bags, boots and accessories sold through Bench & Loom.

Priced at $648, the Bench & Loom Jett Rink ranch coat is the first custom-made item for Bench & Loom and will be manufactured in a single run of 30. The site started taking non-refundable, $480 deposits for the jacket Friday and will fill orders on a first come, first served basis until Aug. 31. Coats are expected to ship in October.

MarlonbrandoThe Zauggs are mum about the next lost classic they plan to revive through the Phoenix Project, but Zaugg said: "I'm vying for the jacket in 'On the Waterfront' with Brando."

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-- Susan Carpenter

Photos: James Dean in "Giant"; Bench & Loom's Jett Rink Ranch coat; Marlon Brando in "On the Waterfront." Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures; Bench & Loom; EPA.

Honda looks to its past to develop heritage clothing line

HondaHeritageteeThere's something about the lines and colors of cars and motorcycles from the '70s. They just seem more cool than a lot of the vehicles made today. Capturing that cool factor is the new Honda Heritage Clothing Collection, launching Thursday on LockerLoop.com.

"A fresh perspective on old Honda favorites," according to Honda spokesperson Angie Nucci. The line, which includes T-shirts, sweat shirts, tote bags and jackets, is priced between $32 and $100 and is available in styles for men and women.

Designed and manufactured in Southern California, and made mostly from cotton, the line was inspired by Honda's archives. Specifically, it was inspired by vintage brochures and advertising for cars, such as the Civic, as well as for scooters and dirt bikes.

"We wanted to make something for the modern-day generation of kids on their Hondas who want to wear something that's more throwback," said Jon Alain Guzik, founder of Hubris Factory, which created the line. 

-- Susan Carpenter

Photo: Honda Civic Tee from Honda Heritage Clothing Collection. Credit: American Honda Motor Co.

Icons: Edie Sedgwick's style can still inspire, decades after the Warhol muse's heyday


Ediesedgwick
Everybody still loves Edie.

Recently, a packed house at Cinefamily watched Andy Warhol’s doomed muse, Edie Sedgwick, bat those famous heavily mascaraed eyelashes one more time, in the semiautobiographical 1970 feature, "Ciao! Manhattan."

Shot in fits and starts over the course of five years, the film is both Edie in her sparkle-and-shine prime and Edie floating lost. With "Ciao!" the California-born ranchland heiress was still struggling to find redemption -- this time in hyper-fiction -- a gorgeously shot, vaguely psychedelic, cult film version of her own real-life downfall.

Within a year of "Ciao’s" completion, Edie would be dead of a drug overdose at 28.  But dying young and looking good have made her a martyr and a myth.

“Edie personifies the fundamental human urge for self exploration and artistic expression of an exceptional life of character with fearless, reckless abandon,” explains David Weisman, the co-director, producer and creative force behind "Ciao! Manhattan."

Continue reading »

Retro-style wedding dresses for the 'Mad Men'-loving bride

Vintage bridal gowns
It's pretty hard to resist accenting my everyday wardrobe with items that mimic the vibrant-colored, sophisticated styles of the female characters on AMC's "Mad Men" -- but for a bridal gown? For brides setting their sights on tea-length and tulle on their wedding day, here are some resources:

Dolly Thicke's Tarzana-based salon Dolly Couture celebrates the era of the hourglass figure and specializes in ready-to-wear and custom-made '50s- and '60s-style dresses, (we like The Edmonton, $395, pictured above left, and The Beverly Hills, $895) plus they have the red patent-leather peep toes and pretty petticoats necessary to complete the look.

Custom-made vintage dresses and accessories, such as the above center 3/4-inch sleeve gown that retails for $210, are available at the Clever Vintage Clothing. But why stop there? Brides can also outfit their entourages at this in Downtown's Fashion District store.

The same goes for fashionista favorite Tavin in Echo Park, which recently added vintage bridal gowns dating from the Victorian Era to the 1970s -- including the above right whimsy romantic Bouffant 1950s gown for $750.

Check out more shops after the jump.

Continue reading »

Your morning fashion and beauty report: Ray-Ban aviators are back. Samantha Cameron's fashions. Chanel's Cruise 2011 show

Tom cruise top gun

Someone tell Tom Cruise: Ray-Ban relaunches aviator glasses. [WWD, subscription required]

Britain has a new prime minister. So what's in his wife's wardrobe? [Huffington Post]

Chanel's Cruise 2011 show involved motorboats, a motorcycle and Crystal Renn. [Fashionologie]

Cate Blanchett will wear Alexander McQueen at Cannes. [WWD]

Former supermodel Beverly Peele is in "serious condition" after a car crash. [TMZ]

Whitney Port talks her clothing line, Kelly Cutrone. [Elle]

"Desperate Housewives" star Teri Hatcher launches lifestyle website. [Daily Mail]

Rosella Giuliani tapped to oversee Gap's 1969 jeans collection. [WWD, subscription required]

Kim Kardashian launches contest to design fragrance packaging to benefit breast cancer. [StyleList]

Model Noémie Lenoir is hospitalized after being found unconscious in a forest. [Daily Mail]

Transgenders win discrimination issue with American Eagle, whose employee handbook had stated that men couldn't wear women's clothing and vise versa. [N.Y. Daily News]

More photos of Massachusetts Sen. Scott Brown's modeling days. [Styleite]

Louis Vuitton launches Young Arts project in London. [Guardian]

The latest counterfeiting trend? Big brands swipe from boutiques. [The Trim]

Victoria's Secret asks 'what is sexy?' Jezebel is not amused with the answer. [Jezebel]

Discreet and retro-style handbags [Telegraph]

-- Whitney Friedlander

Photo: A scene from "Top Gun." Credit: Paramount

You tell us: What fashion decade do you want brought back?

Jean paul gaultier spring 2010
Fashion, by its nature, can be repetitive as designers continue to gain inspiration from -- and put new spins on -- styles and stories of decades past. Just look at our spring fashion feature from a few weeks ago, in which stylist Melissa Magsaysay referenced screen legends Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich and Fleetwood Mac singer Stevie Nicks when talking about the hot "new" spring trends lingerie as outerwear, military styles and '70s-inspired Bohemian, respectively. And blame it on the retro glamor of '60s-era drama "Mad Men," but there were certainly a lot of dresses befitting Samantha of "Bewitched" on the spring runways.

Fashion, of course, is also subjective. Despite years of being mocked as an era that fashion forgot, the '80s rose up like hairsprayed bangs on the Autumn / Winter 2009-10 runways. Last week, when we linked to the Daily Beast's article about designers seemingly cozying up to 1990s grunge fashions as if they found a long-lost flannel in our morning fashion news roundup, a commenter on our Facebook page lamented "Ohh please say it isn't so..." Even the great Blair Waldorf threw some hate at clogs (shoes, I should note, that both my mother and I wore during our respective teen years and which seem to also be back), saying in a recent "Gossip Girl" episode the platform heels were silly and outdated. 

So, we're curious: What fashion era would you want brought back and why? How would you modernize the look for today's fashionistas?

-- Whitney Friedlander

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Photo: Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring / Summer 2010 runway show. Credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

Aprons: Back in fashion?

aprons are a growing trend
Sure, this isn't probably the kind of fashion post readers have come to expect from All the Rage, but The Times' Image staff loves a trend and, boy, did Rene Lynch in our Food section find a good one. Just in time for Mother's Day weekend, she writes about the resurgence of aprons.

But, as she points out, these aren't the "unisex, butcher-style, fuddy-duddy aprons" your mother or grandmother might have worn. Nope, according to Lynch:

Today's models — even the workhorse aprons, the ones you actually use to wipe off hands and fend off splatters — are fun. They're flirty. Sassy. Ironic. Fashion forward. And sexy: Full-length versions not only cover up but also enhance the bustline and play up an hourglass figure with a cinching of the waist.

Like so many other things "Mad Men"-style, these pinafores don't take themselves too seriously either -- Lynch even found one for sale on Etsy with skulls. And like other fashionable items, there are the cream of the crop breed of $100-plus aprons perfect for cocktail parties.

What do you think? Do you think aprons are retro cool or just old-fashioned? And would you/ do you wear one?

-- Whitney Friedlander

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Photo credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times

Your morning fashion and beauty report: 1990s grunge fashion returns. Giorgio Armani and Lady Gaga. Betty White and Donatella Versace

Jean paul gaultier

Grab your flannel and meet me at Starbucks: The 1990s are back. [The Daily Beast]

Somewhat apropos, Jean Paul Gaultier -- who created Madonna's cone bra -- is delving into home furnishings. [WWD, subscription required]

Decades' Cameron Silver to launch denim label. [WWD, subscription required]

The average woman spends three years of her life shopping. [New York Post]

The best of spring's new style books. [WSJ]

HiStyley! checks out L.A. street style. [Mondette]

Giorgio Armani on dressing Lady Gaga. [Vogue UK]

Video: Dolce & Gabbana male models wrestle and dance. [The Frisky]

She really is having a moment: Betty White and Donatella Versace are now friends? [Huffington Post]

An old Parisian law banning women from wearing pants may finally be lifted. [Telegraph]

No, Roberto Cavalli is not firing his wife/creative director. [Styleite]

Can Patrick Robinson save Gap? [Fashionista]

Seven spring fashion essentials from Pucci's Peter Dundas. [Marie Claire]

Simon Fuller's Fashionair website to shutter. [Fashionista]

What are the most popular brands in L.A.? [Shop It To Me]

The 10 wildest looks from Australian Fashion Week. [FabSugar]

-- Whitney Friedlander

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Photo: Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring / Summer 2010 runway show. Credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

Share your most memorable Fred Perry shirt tale and win $7,600

Tell Us Your Story While preppies embraced Lacoste’s crocodile, the mods, punks, suede-heads and Brit pop fans preferred the crowning laurel leaves of British brand Fred Perry's tennis polos. But I'd wager that the youngsters who wore either didn't know or care much that champs Rene Lacoste and Fred Perry were the Federer and Agassi of the 1930s; Perry was the last Briton to win four Grand Slam tourneys back in that decade.

Fred Perry polos, like their French counterparts, are a closet evergreen that never goes out of style. To keep it fresh, Comme des Garcons and Raf Simons have both spruced up the laurels in recent years for limited-edition collaborations.

Do you have a fond Perry tale? Got a pic to prove it? Upload a picture of you in a Fred Perry to FredPerryTellUsYourStory.com before Dec. 20 and regale readers with your shirt tale. Whether you were an indie rocker, rude boy or a stylish office drone, the story that gets the most votes from readers is eligible to win a cash prize of $7,600 (i.e. £5,000).

-- Max Padilla

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Photo credit: Fred Perry

Opening Ceremony collabs with Robert Clergerie for a '70s-style platform shoe collection

Clergerie

Trailblazing New York retailer Opening Ceremony (which has a boutique in L.A. on La Cienega Boulevard) has teamed up with veteran footwear designer Robert Clergerie for a collection of playful '70s-style lace-up loafers.

Clergerie, who was the first designer to produce women’s shoes on a men’s last (foot form), started as a  designer for footwear legend Charles Jourdan before establishing himself as one of the most innovative shoemakers in recent history.

The capsule collection, Opening Ceremony par Robert Clergerie, is essentially one zany look (for $460) wrought in a variety of bold prints. The design boasts a rope-covered platform sole and an oxford done up in fabrics featured in Opening Ceremony's spring / summer 2010 collection -- polka-dot linen (in cream and navy), indigo linen and a custom floral watercolor-printed denim.

While they're not for the fashionably timid, the style is a natural match for all those wide-leg and flared jeans edging their way back into style. 

--Emili Vesilind

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Spring 2010 fashion trends: That '70s style

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Photos: Looks from the new Opening Ceremony par Robert Clergerie. Credit: Opening Ceremony.


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