New York Fashion Week 2012: Juan Carlos Obando
Designer Juan Carlos Obando, who lives in Los Angeles, has been on a roll lately. Viola Davis wore his fuchsia halter dress to the Oscar nominees luncheon the other day. And Arianne Phillips, nominated for an Oscar in the costume design category for her work on "W.E." told me at Obando's runway show that he will be making her gown for Oscar night.
On the runway, Obando wasn't afraid to show styles that are similar to what he's done before. Fluttery, bias-cut, silk chiffon dresses in dynamite bright colors are a signature for him, so why not show them off? This season, they came in chartreuse, peony pink and orange crush with assymetrical or fishtail hems adding an interesting twist to the silhouettes. The addition of streamer-like scarves made for a wonderfully graphic statement as models walked down the runway.
In keeping with his flair for unique craftsmanship, Obando brought a beautifully distressed look to the floral crystal embroidery on satin dresses and jackets by dousing the embroidery in vinegar, ripping it apart and sewing it back together to create the imperfect perfect detail.
The day wear had a lightness similar to the evening wear, from a featherweight puffer vest that seemed to glow from the inside to a fluidly draped, black-and-white skirt that captured the essence of motion. Knotted crystal rope necklaces grounded the looks.
Everyone went crazy for the fur motocross jackets and were shocked to learn afterward that they are faux. Obando said he had been developing the faux fur pieces for more than a year with a German mill. He wanted furs that were all different colors, and he got them. The most fabulous jacket of the bunch came in a tonal color block. Well done.
-- Booth Moore
Photos of Juan Carlos Obando's fall/winter 2012 collection. Credit: Dario Cantatore / Getty Images.