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New York Fashion Week Fall 2012: Jason Wu

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Coming on the heels of his sold-out line for Target, Jason Wu is American fashion’s man of the moment. And he didn’t disappoint with his fall collection, which was high-drama, right down to the Hollywood special effects.

The show had a cinematic opening, with two large red lacquered doors swinging open at the top of the runway, and models stepping out in a rolling cloud of fog.

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Wu, who grew up in Taiwan, used Chinese imagery as his inspiration, from the Mao jacket, which he rendered in a gorgeous hammered red satin, to the military green wool cape coat, trimmed in delicate black lace.

The Hollywood version of Chinese glamour in films such as ‘Shanghai Express’ (1932) (which featured unforgettable costumes by Travis Banton), was a reference point for strong-shouldered gowns and short cheongsam-style dresses embellished with panels of silk brocade, tassel beading, cording or gold embroidery resembling tiny medallions.

The ending of the show was equally cinematic, with all the models walking out together like one chic red army.

Wu is in expansion mode with accessories and jewelry. His new ‘Daphne’ warrior bag and pumps were decorated with metal studs, and box-like clutches with jeweled details. He’s also reportedly interested in expanding his business to points East (like everyone else in fashion). It will be interesting to see how this collection is received in China, and by famous fans of the brand, including Michelle Obama.

Top photos of Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Credit: Fernanda Calfat / Getty Images.

Bottom photos of Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Credit: Jason DeCrow / Associated Press

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