New York Fashion Week: Proenza Schouler’s pattern play

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At Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez created a cool, covetable collection that took fall’s Western trend to a new frontier. The starting point was colorful geometric South and Latin American textile designs, which were abstracted into pixelated patterns at times. (Perhaps the designers were inspired by their own popular Mochila PS 1 handbags, or the current craze for all things Pendleton.)

But this wasn’t indigenous by way of the craft fair. The opening look was a tailored tribal mix, with a terrific looking pair of wool jacquard pants in an orange, brown, black, white and gray pixelated pattern that spiraled around the legs, worn with a jagged-hem saddle-colored leather T-shirt and a beautifully cut black doubleface wool blazer.

As the collection progressed, the patterns morphed into a brilliantly hued diamond jacquard, used on a shift dress, and diamond-shaped embroideries on a wool long sleeve top, worn with a blanket skirt.

But the real show piece was a macrame skirt, in a turquoise and black pattern, swinging fringe. Worn with a black suede top, and a bold necklace, it was one of the week’s highlights.

The designers also did their own takes on the traditional Peruvian sweater, before segueing into dressier looks, such as patent leather shearling coats, velvet jacquard dresses with burnout zig zags, or tile-like pixelated patterns. There were plenty of chic extras, too, including strappy sandals that buckled up the ankle, and patterned clutch purses galore.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Proenza Schouler fall-winter 2011 runway collection photo gallery