New York Fashion Week: Rag & Bone's lighter take on fall's military trend

Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are rising fast in the ranks of top American designers. Because, like Alexander Wang, they have a knack for creating wearable sportswear with a twist.

Though their spring inspiration looked scary on the page -- "Lawrence of Arabia" and desert warfare meet lingerie -- it worked as a jumping-off point for a lighter take on fall's military trend.

The collection was about adding lingerie-like details and fabrications to classic pieces. A white blazer and utility pants with Broderie Anglaise insets, or a black blazer with a sheer chiffon back, for example. A technical-looking silver and white nylon tailcoat looked great paired with a mint-green gauze skirt. (Maybe mint green will be the spring equivalent of fall's olive drab.)

They also incorporated a very cool collage print of a beach in Bequia, splashing it on a chiffon tank dress and weaving strips of it to make a macrame bolero top.

With so many great ideas, it was a wonder why the designers obscured them by layering harness bras on top of everything. It was an unwelcome distraction.

-- Booth Moore

Photo: Rag & Bone spring 2011 fashion show. Credit: Jason DeCrow / Associated Press