New York Fashion Week: Calvin Klein was pure simplicity

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Now that minimalism has returned to the fashion vernacular, the moment is right for Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa. And he seized it, experimenting with a new, elongated silhouette with controlled volume, to create clothes so stunning in their simplicity, that they were actually canvases for the beautiful women who wore them, instead of the other way around.

A clean look was achieved by using no visible fastenings, except for string ties at the waist of some pieces. He began in all white, with a simple racerback T-shirt and wrap-front skirt that fell to the ankle; a loose-fitting, collarless white jacket, sheer T-shirt and pleated cuffed pants.

Speaking of subtleties, low-set slit pockets were the decoration on a white V-neck tunic, worn with pants cinched at the ankles.

Shift dresses had subtle volume, falling away from and wrapping the body. One, in a balsam color, had a ‘double-breasted’ silhouette minus the buttons. While another, in a beautiful pacific blue, was shaped like a coat dress, with an angled closure minus the buttons.

Evening dresses were spare, but fluid, taking on the shape of the body, accented only by a few slit pockets and pleated panels.

Topping off the modern look? Sandals atop narrow translucent rectangular high heels, making it appear as if the models were walking on cathode tubes, and sleek ponytails that called to mind the chic simplicity of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Calvin Klein spring - summer 2011 runway collection photo gallery