Milan Fashion Week: Pucci collection doesn't sizzle; it fizzles
I had such high hopes for the Pucci collection, which has been getting so much love on the red carpet of late. Especially when I read in the notes before seeing the show that designer Peter Dundas was reworking the famous Pucci prints by bleaching and tie-dying them in batik patterns. What a cool concept!
Except that it wasn't executed as well as it could have been. On many pieces, the prints faded so much into the background, they became unremarkable. The Greek-inspired blue-and-white print cotton voile maxidress that opened the show, for example, could have been from any fashion house (Cavalli? Gucci?); the same goes for the white tunic with a swirling blue design on front. (The best print piece in the whole show was a saffron and brown maxidress with white batik overdye, worn under a caramel leather jacket with whipstitching.)
But where Dundas really excelled was with those red-carpet looks aimed squarely at the rock-'n'-roll celeb set, namely a slinky black gown thick with embroidery, tassel and mirror details. and cutaway lacing revealing more than a hint of skin. (Kylie Minogue was practically salivating over it in the front row.)
Still, as I was watching the show, it felt as if the prime directive was to round out the collection with salable accessories, such as blanket-weave cross-body bags, clutches trimmed with lapis and turquoise stones, and tie-dyed tasseled Pucci print scarves, all of which were pretty great. And let's face it, if they can sell enough of those, the rest won't matter.
-- Booth Moore
Photos: Looks from the Emilio Pucci spring-summer 2011 runway collection shown at Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson & Peter Stigter / For The Times