Milan Fashion Week: Emilio Pucci targets Hollywood’s haute hippies
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First it was Balmain, and now it is Emilio Pucci that is generating heat in fashion circles as the new-old It brand.
In just three seasons as artistic director for Emilio Pucci, Peter Dundas has succeeded in forging a sexy, rock ‘n roll boho identity for the brand beyond the iconic geometric prints beloved by 1960s jet setters such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.
It’s playing well in Hollywood. Kate Hudson wore Dundas’ white, long-sleeved gown with a plunge back to the Screen Actors Guild Awards this season. And with all that was on offer on the runway, there’s no reason to think we won’t see Pucci on the Oscars red carpet, too. While most designers here have been trying to quiet down and clean up, Dundas was all about hedonistic, flesh-baring decadence, which meant lots of lace, feathers and beads, and cross body bags swinging fur fringe. When he did do prints, they were jewel-toned and overdyed to a lush purple haze.
Most dresses were either floor-sweeping and open at the back, or so short, they could barely have been street legal, with corset lacing over the thigh.
A red halter gown completely open over the torso, with a beaded waist band, a floaty skirt and a sky high slit was one of the sexiest gowns of season. A black lace bodysuit barely laced over the bust wasn’t too shabby either.
But the most surprising news here was how strong and sexy the daywear was -- long skirts worn with wide braided belts and high-waisted flared suede pants that laced up the back; a jet beaded bolero and a lamb fur coat with python trim.
It’s no wonder the designer name-checked Janis Joplin in his show notes. Where there’s a haute hippie, this brand will be calling her name.
-- Booth Moore in Milan, Italy
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