Los Angeles Fashion Week: Jeffrey Sebelia's Fluxus collection stands out at Directives West; BOXeight opens with a fete
Los Angeles Fashion Week has always piggybacked on the Los Angeles Fashion Market, when boutiques and department stores from across the country descend on Downtown L.A.'s Fashion District to place orders for next season.
Friday, Directives West, an L.A.-based trend forecasting division of New York's Doneger Group, bridged fashion week and market with a trend-based show, attended by buyers from Anthropologie, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. Previously, Directives West staged runway presentations targeted toward junior apparel retailers.
For fall 2010, Directives West focused on key trends such as loopy knits, military jackets, lace and ruffles, Native American-inspired patterns and athletic-inspired cotton separates. On the runway, the latter predominated with gray jersey jumpsuits, stretch dresses, leggings and flouncy hoodies. As witnessed by the success of brands such as Juicy Couture and Vince, L.A. seems to create the casual looks that American women want to wear on weekends.
Directive West's most recognizable name was Fluxus, designed by Jeffrey Sebelia, winner of Project Runway's Season 3. Sebelia didn't disappoint the contemporary buyers, giving them top notch looks in the stated key trends -- a shirred cotton jersey jumpsuit and a romantic belted poet blouse worn with a miniskirt over print leggings. Sebelia, mustachioed with shaggy red hair, said his fall Fluxus collection was based loosely on Art Deco and French militaire, adding that he took the label "from a T-shirt brand to a full collection in only six months.”
Later that evening, BOXeight had its “Fashion: Refocus” opening-night event featuring photographers shooting models for LA Confidential magazine wearing looks from Skingraft, Isabel Lu, Funktional and Gold Spun. For BOXeight, it was a refocus to throwing a fete with fashion in the background, and the skinny-jean and boot-wearing hipster crowd didn't mind.
Skingraft, designed by Jonny Cota, also a mustachioed young man with outsize ear jewelry, appeared to draw the most attention from partygoers with an elaborate photo set-up featuring a pregnant model vamping it up wearing the label’s signature intricate studded leather pieces and gothy knits.
Jenny Park's Funktional showcased its wearable "grandma meets grunge" collection for young women with on-trend separates such as slouchy jersey tops and leather skirts. And Sophia Kim, designer of Isabel Lu (named after her niece), channeled the 1980s with sculpted dresses featuring bustiers and shoulder pads. Even Kim's photo stylist was wearing a Madonna “Blond Ambition" tour T-shirt.
-- Max Padilla
Photos: A look from Fluxus (top); Credit: Volker Corell (Fluxus). A model wearing Skingraft gets an adjustment. Credit: Ben Cope (Skingraft), courtesy of BOXeight.