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Palm Springs’ Modernism Week throws a fashion show

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Less than 48 hours after wrapping New York Fashion Week at the Bryant Park tents, taking in Tommy Hilfiger’s fall/winter 2010 ‘preppy with a pop’ men’s and women’s runway collection -- a retrofitting of the brand’s prepster heritage circa 1985 -- I found myself taking in another fashion show heavy that mined the past.

But unlike most of the fashion flock -- who had winged their way to London for that city’s Fashion Week (Feb. 19-24), I was sitting in a basement ballroom of the Hotel Zozo in Palm Springs taking in the inaugural Modernism Week vintage fashion show.

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The show was made up of approximately 50 vintage looks (mostly women’s, with a handful of men’s) spanning the period from 1945 to 1970 and shown in chronological order, beginning with a navy blue woman’s suit accompanied by the song ‘Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy’ and ending with a white wedding gown shown to the strains of ‘Aquarius/Let the Sun Shine In.’

All of the clothes -- some never worn and with original price tags still fluttering -- were provided by Palm Springs vintage clothing dealer Marc Joseph and were for sale afterward, with 20% of the proceeds donated to Modernism Week. They were accessorized with period-appropriate jewelry by local vintage jewelry dealer Matt Burkholz (whose strong suit is Bakelite pieces).

Looks ranged from casual workwear outfits such as women’s Levi’s Western shirts and pants ($250 each), and a men’s lettermen’s sweater (above right, $80) to an exquisite one-of-a-kind Mainbocher couture gown in a floral pattern with individually set rhinestones paired with a pink satin opera coat (both at above left, $900 and $450 respectively).

Memorable pieces included a psychedelic print dress by Mr. Blackwell, a Dior turquoise jacket and Pucci skirt ($225 and $450 respectively, pictured at left), and the penultimate piece of the show, a clear acrylic skirt and vest circa 1970 (with the addition of a gold metallic bra underneath in the interest of modesty).

There were some hiccups in the run of show -- tiny things such as false starts, models with the wrong accessories and a run of show that dragged on (partly because it played out on three separate raised platforms instead of a single runway), but those were minor blips in a showcase that managed to give real life and a sense of wearability to pieces too often seen hanging lifeless in a boutique.

I’ll spare you the confluence of events that precipitated my mostly accidental attendance (it’s a murky tale involving Airstream trailers, Shag, Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms estate and a Cadillac full of women), but if the event returns during the city’s annual Modernism Week, as organizers hope it will, I (and presumably my co-pilots) will be making a point of penciling it into our busy schedules. -- Adam Tschorn

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