New York Fashion Week: Phillip Lim shoots, scores with classic sportswear
Phillip Lim hit it out of the park with his fall collection by returning to what he became famous for in the first place -- elevating classic sportswear pieces to must-haves with the slightest design tweaks.
In a season when nearly every designer has shown a cape, his had something extra. The first came in a blown-out, buff-colored check pattern, paired with a hot pink silk blouse with ties at the cuffs and black suede jeans with a bit of flare in the leg.
(For those who live in warmer climates, Lim's crisp white oxford button down cape shirt was a clever spin on the trend. )
Lim ticked off the sweater-dressing trend, too, offering an airy gray mohair sweater dress with a chiffon hem and a gray merino wool poncho with side lacing.
Winter shorts are a perennial for the designer, the best of which came in denim with a paperbag waist, worn with a fur-trimmed anorak. Another genius piece was a shearling "trick" coat with detachable trench details -- a design twofer.
If there was any weak link, it was the handkerchief silk dresses, with asymmetrical hems, which didn't have the heft and polish of the rest of the collection. A better evening option was the gold tweed lamé tuxedo, which had a sublime fit.
Lim also showed several "suspender skirts," which brought to mind lederhosen. Then again, if anyone has the cool-girl clients to pull them off, it's Lim.
-- Booth Moore in New York
Photos: Looks from Phillip Lim's fall/winter 2010 runway collection. Photo credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times