Paris Fashion Week: Lindsay Lohan's first Emanuel Ungaro collection is a walk of shame

It was a deadly collision of celebrity culture and fashion culture on Sunday at the debut of the new Emanuel Ungaro collection with Lindsay Lohan as artistic advisor and Estrella Archs as designer. When Lohan came out for a runway bow, her eyes were full of tears. And it's easy to see why. After all the hullabaloo over her appointment a month ago, with some fashion insiders suggesting it was an insult to anyone who had ever really worked in design, it had to have been the walk of shame to end all.

The fashion crowd is a tough one, and the fangs were out for this collection from the beginning. Unfortunately, the clothes--reportedly whipped together in a mere three weeks -- didn't do anything to defy low expectations.

It's difficult to know whom to blame -- Lohan for taking the job or Ungaro President Mounir Moufarrige for thinking he could install a troubled Hollywood starlet with no fashion training at a venerable French house (even one that cycles through designers faster than Lohan cycles through rehab stints). Or maybe it's the fault of the industry in general, which has put a premium on fast, flashy and addictive fashion, over forward-thinking and creative fashion.

The impulse to focus on the house's signature shade of hot pink was a good one, and that's how the collection began, with a tight minidress draped over one shoulder. There were a lot of minidresses in this show, many of them so short, they seemed to be inviting a TMZ crotch shot.

The second design element was the heart, in a repeating sequin pattern on one jacket and repeating cutouts with sequins peeking out from underneath on another. These were partytime clothes -- ruched leggings in bright blue and purple (Lohan has her own line of leggings too -- 6126), pink harem pants and bandeau bikini tops with heart-shaped charms nestled between the breasts.

But by far the worst offense were the glittery heart-shaped pasties worn under suit jackets. In a word, why? They were just begging to be laughed at. A larger version of the heart pasties also turned up on some of the models' heads.

Nothing in the collection evidenced any real skill or discernible design work. In fact, you could probably find a lot of it already on the shelves at Kitson. I did hear someone remark that they liked the shoes, which had narrow, stair-step heels.

Still, there's really no defending this misguided collection, other than as a desperate bid for attention from a house that hasn't mattered since its founder retired in 2004. I just don't think it's the kind of attention they had in mind.

-- Booth Moore

Photos: Emanuel Ungaro spring-summer 2010 runway

Story:  Must-have looks are in the stars

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Photo: Estrella Archs and Lindsay Lohan at the end of the Emanuel Ungaro Spring-Summer 2010 runway show. Bottom photos: Models way the spring-summer 2010 Emanuel Ungaro runway All credits: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

Comments

[tboz]

less gossip review much fashion side please
Ungaro show is a hit admit it
poor Esteban Cortazar

[D. H.]

So you wrote the article in advance and then insert a comment here and there about the clothes? The sentence involving pasties seems to be the only critique. The rest seems to be prejudged. There is the problem with the current media. Everything is prejudged whether it be film, books, television or fashion. The 1st 3 paragraphs, with the exception of the distortion (or is it a lie as I really doubt you think Lohan was crying for the reason you sarcastically give) and the last 2 paragraphs were, no doubt, typed a few days ago.

Rumors of fashion mavens and columnists talking about knives drawn should have shown the reaction would be as biased and prejudiced as any fashion show we have seen in a long time. We were not let down. As for the show itself, some solid work, 3 to 4 standouts, 2 bad ones (including the pastie one which was probably a nod to gossip hounds and which will be the only one people focus on). As for you Booth. Well you prove to be just the latest case of prejudged opinion in the long downward spiraling world of criticism.

[lula]

wow so glad for esteban that he is out of this mess he is rising by the minute while the house sinks to the deep end. tacky trashy no class is an understatement for this slap in the face collection

[vivi]

Just come out and say you don't like the woman--why bother trying to disguise it under the guise of actual critique by cutting down "design elements" like sequins and hearts?

[lisa davis]

I don't get the ripped jeans look. Why would someone buy jeans that look like a cat was playing with them? Why buy anything that looks like moths had a good time with it? Fashion should make you look better, not like you're too lazy to put away your clothes so your pet chews them.

[Annie]

A show as tarty and vulgar as Lohan. What a shame for Ungaro. And what an insult to the creator's legacy. Why does a Couture house have to debase itself in pursuit of the People starlet market? There are plenty of trash labels for that.

[michael]

This review was so on point. Genius.

[Ximena]

I think I need to see evidence of "tears" before we can take this as anything more but a Hollywood industry lackey posing as news reporter.

[Jack Henry]

It's EXACTLY the kind of attention they had in mind. Fashion's old guard is assessing this as a serious collection, it's not. It's just to sell stuff. And this "enfant truly terrible" PR is perfect for Robertson Blvd. and mall stores.

[Susie McGreger]

My, Lindsay Lohan is one busy girl, good for her and she hasn't been bad for along time. I like her very much.

[Judy Willis]

If this 'article' isn't a major promotion, I don't know what is. Wow. The power of the press. If I was Lohan I thank you.

[Stella]

Wow! Is this even a fashion critique or simply an "I hate Lindsay Lohan whine" masked as a fashion critique? You obviously don't like her. You pre-wrote this, added a few hasty "after the show" details to sound more credible, and then went out and got wasted with your fashion friends. While out with the gals, you gossiped about Lindsay, some drunken friend of yours mentioned her TMZ crotch fire design thus your, "There were a lot of minidresses in this show, many of them so short, they seemed to be inviting a TMZ crotch shot" line was born. You guys laughed you went home and you wrote some more based on you and your friends dislike for the girl, instead of doing some real journalist writing. Shame on you Booth Moore!

[amar ventris]

what brian reyes was unavailable?

[Polomoche]

Take heart: the word "garish" is alive and well

[Bubba]

I never really understood fashion shows to begin with. Most of the clothes you see at any show are enough to make you laugh yourself silly. Meanwhile the celebs. go Goo and Gaaa over clothes that nobody in their right mind would ever wear. So im not sure why the French are so hostile towards Lohan. The entire industry is a joke.

[muskegonheights]

Thanks to all Lindsay's friends for so obviously posting.

[Patrick]

Who are these paid-for-PR posters? Amongst other comments, "Nothing in the collection evidenced any real skill or discernible design work. In fact, you could probably find a lot of it already on the shelves at Kitson."

[JohBurgJen]

Been there, seen that. A totally pathetic attempt to put together a fashion show. Are you people joking? Lindsay should stay where she belongs.

[Rob]

It amazes me at how petty people can be. Bash the fashion, low blows and immature rants lessen your credibility.

The pasties are pretty rediculous though....

[Mr. Peligro]

What would Jesus...er...Anna Wintour say!!

[T]

trailer trash... can't buy class... can't buy taste... just ask Brittany

[joanne]

what a slap in the face and disgust for UNGARO. You should fire both of them.

[socalgal59]

So where’s the review of the clothes? The majority of this article is nothing more than a trashing of Lohan—who isn’t even the designer for heaven’s sake, Estrella Archs is the designer, and Lohan is simply an advisor. I think Booth Moore has an issue with Lohan, thus is going to hate anything associated with her—period.

If the clothes don’t work—then the designer gets raked over the coals, not the advisor of 3 measly weeks. Moore’s obvious bias is splashed all over the page. Her editor should be reprimanded for letting this one go to press.

I agree the pasties are tacky—but so many elements in so many collections are far worse. These pasties don’t rise to the “Walk of Shame” title Moore slaps on Lohan—indeed, a total exaggeration for such a tiny and insignificant detail. My god, if heart shape pasties get this much rise out of Moore, then I hope she has plenty more ammo to shoot down anyone and everyone who dare makes a pair of MC Hammer pants, anything with shoulder pads, or a pair of acid wash jeans. I’d rather see heart pasties on a woman than Joan Collins shoulder pads and skintight acid wash jeans reminiscent of the ‘80’s.

[dominique]

WOAH WOAH WOAH there was sooooo much wrong with tht i was disgusted by tht i liked 2 thngs thts it! ugh i cant even begin to explain my digust, i didnt read the review but i looked at the pictures thts all tht matters i like lindsay kinda but i lost tonnes of respect when she was being outragous and now i think all but 1 ounce of respect is gone... bleh! sooooo wrong!!!!!!!!!!

[Noe]

Keep in mind, it's "fashion journalism." It doesn't even have to be good writing.

The genre, in and of itself, is constructed around talking about clothes: sweaters and skirts and the hair-dos that accompany them. Fashion journalism is merely the dreary skill of recycling words like "collection" "designer" "hem" and "cotton" ad nauseum.

Fashion journalism merely provides jobs to writers who like sweaters and skirts. Look at most of the "highly respected" fashion writers and bloggers: they can't even spell. They wear sunglasses indoors -- not for fear of the runway lights blowing out their retinas -- but because it's part of the idiot package. Anna Piaggi is about the only one worth caring about. She has class, whimsy, balls and a brain. The others are journalistic blogging hacks.

It's sweaters and skirts and hair-dos, people.

[Shawn]

AAAH! My eyes!

All around a very embarrassing moment for everyone involved.

The bottom-line, though, is the fashion industry is as cut-throat as it gets. It was rather cruel to prop Ms. Lohan up in this position knowing that her psychological health is hanging by a thread. I feel really sorry for her - but who couldn't see this coming? Except *maybe* for Lohan and that misguided Ungaro exec.

On the other hand, if only the clothes were halfway cute - she might get some respect. But they look like Polly Pocket Porn Star meets Pamela "oops, I forgot my pants" Anderson. They are UGLY, look unfinished and completely un-inspired.

[TW]

Not that I love Lindsay Lohan or anything, 'cause I dont...But all this article, and accompanying photos, has told me is that Ungaro has finally hired someone who designed clothes that most people would wear. Albeit, ridiculously EXPENSIVE clothes that most people would wear. But still, not crazy tulle head pieces and more-than-semi-sheer tops/bottoms that are inappropriate for, um, ANYWHERE. Maybe for once, one of these "maisons de coture" have come up with a reasonable idea for making a little extra cash off of the non-billionaire set.

[Cynthia]

After looking at the photos of Ungaro's collection, I can't say they are any better or worse than any other design house's offerings this year. To me it is all fug. A bunch of unwearable, non-affordable crud is my opinion of haute couture. When I looked at Arch's and Lohan's collections I thought, "Well, these look like pieces someone could actually wear...maybe not in the combinations presented but they are wearable all the same." Is that was makes it a failure?

[Alana]

The lie factory. Anti-liberal-American-woman is the new job of US mainstream press. These janitors posing as press burn the candle at both ends building a fanbase for foreign bimbos like Cruz and Winslet because they get naked on cue.

[Jean Candido]

I couldn't agree more--on all fronts. A sadly trite collection showcasing little-to-no handiwork. I too forgot about E.Ungaro post-2004. Now, I just weep for him.

[shania]

im tired of celebritie joining the fashion industry just because they can. Especially ones who have no talent.

www.twitter.com/itsshaheena

[Frank Castle]

Ohhh Come on MOST fashion shows are a joke. Most are an ascension in to absurdity! %95 of the women wouldn't/can't wear these "fashions". Just a bunch of self congratulating attention seekers. Different day... the same thing...

[Shlomo Shitstain]

Ungaro is so over, DESPERATE for any kind of attention at all it hooked up with trainwreck LiLo.
What, Amy Winehouse wasn't available?

[jabo]

Why is anything Lohan does, newsworthy?
She is definitely not pretty, and why Disney allows her to play in movies aimed at children is beyond belief, with her sad but messy background.

[Dan]

Only silly, ridiculous people actually care about fashion shows. Lohan looks good though. Detractors are just jealous.

[brettstrodamus]

The posters here need to spend some time getting an education and less time looking at the pictures of gossip rags.
Now, what the hell is tboz trying to say?

[jt]

Once I read all the predictably negative fashion "journalism" about this collection, I got it: they were baiting the predictable reaction in order to work it.

With that in mind, I think that this collection's actually growing on me. I think it could have been stronger, but it seems to have hit its mark, while anticipating commentary and shaping it.

That's what high fashion does these days, and in that sense, the collection is still working.

[Mark]

From the photos chosen, the clothes actually look wearable, pretty nice and tasteful (a blouse is needed over the pasties though).

I mean, seriously, she didn't actually "design" the stuff. Professionals designed them after holding some high level "concept" meetings with her, just enough that she thinks she had some input.

Sure, this is stuff that "ordinary" Americans couldn't wear because they're too fat and the designs don't include allowances for muffin tops, cankles, bra wings and chubb. But compared to most Paris fashion, the 10 percent of American women who aren't fat could actually wear this in real life.

[MinnCitizen]

This has to be the worst collection I have ever seen and I'm almost 60! Has there ever been a worse one? At the same time, I think it would be fun to be a tart. LOL I recommend all women try that out at one time or another.

[Fashionistas suck]

"some fashion insiders suggesting it was an insult to anyone who had ever really worked in design"

What a joke. Who the hell do they think they are ? Fashion is all about hype. Nobody in the room really cares about clothes. People attending that kind of event just want to be seen, and maybe buy something 'created' by a famous designer, whatever the dress looks like. Now the hype is to call Lohan a failure. But it doesn't make more sense than calling those 'couturiers' geniuses.

[Krunch]

What the heck will hacks like you do when you don't have Lindsey to kick around anymore? Your mind was made up before the clothes hit the runway.

[Joe Shea]

The first two and the last dresses are really nice. even if the second sucks. I don't get it. Do fashion designers ignore the design to slash the designer? Frankly, the first two dresses are the freshest pieces of mainstream fashion I've seen in a long time- clean, cool and sexy. In reality, I hardly know who Lindsay Lohan is except a celebrity drink-driver, and if these are her designs, good for her! The last one is a little overdone color-wise, but it's sure perfect for Valentine's Day.

[Molly, NYC]

Moore is right--these shows are supposed to show off a house's skill, vision and imagination. This collection looks like Streetwalker Barbie.

Moreover, it's insulting to the people who work hard at this metier, who put in years of their lives developing their chops, to pretend that someone whose primary skill is being cute is in any way calling the shots at their place of work.

I like Lohan very much--as an actress. But that doesn't mean she know jack about anything else.

(Does this remind anyone else of that Simpson's episode in which Homer's long-lost brother goes broke by letting Homer design a car for his company?)

[jack]

This is our culture boiled down and it makes me angry. There are many people in society getting paid vast sums of money, not for doing nothing, but for doing horrible work. This is the cult of personality in a nutshell. Horrible design and execution. It's not all Lohan's fault

[Luna]

The micro mini skirts don't surprise me at all, or the streetwalker look. I was in Las Vegas recently and a lot of the young women I saw were wearing dresses so short they could not sit, bend or do anything but stand, I found out later that these "dresses" are actually shirts that are meant to be worn with jeans. Most of the heels they were wearing were so high they could barely walk - I kept waiting for someone to fall over. All in all, they looked like a bunch of hookers trying to make some money.

[Molly, NYC]

On consideration, I take back my earlier comment. Of course Ms. Lohan had nothing to do with the atrociousness of this collection; her participation was probably limited to allowing herself to being associated with it for promotional purposes (for a hefty fee).

Estrella Archs, the designer (the tall, monumentally untalented woman dressed like a bimbo in the first photo) is the responsible party--but Lohan has drawn the criticism for this trainwreck away from Archs like a human lightening rod.

[Megan of Sydney]

I feel sorry that lots of aspiring, talented fashion designers spend years at college studying and working hard to create beautiful clothes and you get this sort of crap show making headlines. What a monumental waste. And are people blind? There is something seriously aesthetically challenged about Ungaro's 2009/10 summer fashion show. The shapeless nanna coats and cardies over the tight, short little tarty dresses, the barbie pink silk poo-catchers that stop awkwardly mid-calf. The designs are boring and brain-deadeningly banal. Still I heard they are selling well. Must be the end of the world coming...

[sally parker]

this is a bad website