Paris Fashion Week: Lindsay Lohan's first Emanuel Ungaro collection is a walk of shame

It was a deadly collision of celebrity culture and fashion culture on Sunday at the debut of the new Emanuel Ungaro collection with Lindsay Lohan as artistic advisor and Estrella Archs as designer. When Lohan came out for a runway bow, her eyes were full of tears. And it's easy to see why. After all the hullabaloo over her appointment a month ago, with some fashion insiders suggesting it was an insult to anyone who had ever really worked in design, it had to have been the walk of shame to end all.

The fashion crowd is a tough one, and the fangs were out for this collection from the beginning. Unfortunately, the clothes--reportedly whipped together in a mere three weeks -- didn't do anything to defy low expectations.

It's difficult to know whom to blame -- Lohan for taking the job or Ungaro President Mounir Moufarrige for thinking he could install a troubled Hollywood starlet with no fashion training at a venerable French house (even one that cycles through designers faster than Lohan cycles through rehab stints). Or maybe it's the fault of the industry in general, which has put a premium on fast, flashy and addictive fashion, over forward-thinking and creative fashion.

The impulse to focus on the house's signature shade of hot pink was a good one, and that's how the collection began, with a tight minidress draped over one shoulder. There were a lot of minidresses in this show, many of them so short, they seemed to be inviting a TMZ crotch shot.

The second design element was the heart, in a repeating sequin pattern on one jacket and repeating cutouts with sequins peeking out from underneath on another. These were partytime clothes -- ruched leggings in bright blue and purple (Lohan has her own line of leggings too -- 6126), pink harem pants and bandeau bikini tops with heart-shaped charms nestled between the breasts.

But by far the worst offense were the glittery heart-shaped pasties worn under suit jackets. In a word, why? They were just begging to be laughed at. A larger version of the heart pasties also turned up on some of the models' heads.

Nothing in the collection evidenced any real skill or discernible design work. In fact, you could probably find a lot of it already on the shelves at Kitson. I did hear someone remark that they liked the shoes, which had narrow, stair-step heels.

Still, there's really no defending this misguided collection, other than as a desperate bid for attention from a house that hasn't mattered since its founder retired in 2004. I just don't think it's the kind of attention they had in mind.

-- Booth Moore

Photos: Emanuel Ungaro spring-summer 2010 runway

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Photo: Estrella Archs and Lindsay Lohan at the end of the Emanuel Ungaro Spring-Summer 2010 runway show. Bottom photos: Models way the spring-summer 2010 Emanuel Ungaro runway All credits: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

Comments

[tboz]

less gossip review much fashion side please
Ungaro show is a hit admit it
poor Esteban Cortazar

[D. H.]

So you wrote the article in advance and then insert a comment here and there about the clothes? The sentence involving pasties seems to be the only critique. The rest seems to be prejudged. There is the problem with the current media. Everything is prejudged whether it be film, books, television or fashion. The 1st 3 paragraphs, with the exception of the distortion (or is it a lie as I really doubt you think Lohan was crying for the reason you sarcastically give) and the last 2 paragraphs were, no doubt, typed a few days ago.

Rumors of fashion mavens and columnists talking about knives drawn should have shown the reaction would be as biased and prejudiced as any fashion show we have seen in a long time. We were not let down. As for the show itself, some solid work, 3 to 4 standouts, 2 bad ones (including the pastie one which was probably a nod to gossip hounds and which will be the only one people focus on). As for you Booth. Well you prove to be just the latest case of prejudged opinion in the long downward spiraling world of criticism.

[lula]

wow so glad for esteban that he is out of this mess he is rising by the minute while the house sinks to the deep end. tacky trashy no class is an understatement for this slap in the face collection

[vivi]

Just come out and say you don't like the woman--why bother trying to disguise it under the guise of actual critique by cutting down "design elements" like sequins and hearts?

[lisa davis]

I don't get the ripped jeans look. Why would someone buy jeans that look like a cat was playing with them? Why buy anything that looks like moths had a good time with it? Fashion should make you look better, not like you're too lazy to put away your clothes so your pet chews them.

[Annie]

A show as tarty and vulgar as Lohan. What a shame for Ungaro. And what an insult to the creator's legacy. Why does a Couture house have to debase itself in pursuit of the People starlet market? There are plenty of trash labels for that.

[michael]

This review was so on point. Genius.

[Ximena]

I think I need to see evidence of "tears" before we can take this as anything more but a Hollywood industry lackey posing as news reporter.

[Jack Henry]

It's EXACTLY the kind of attention they had in mind. Fashion's old guard is assessing this as a serious collection, it's not. It's just to sell stuff. And this "enfant truly terrible" PR is perfect for Robertson Blvd. and mall stores.

[Susie McGreger]

My, Lindsay Lohan is one busy girl, good for her and she hasn't been bad for along time. I like her very much.

[Judy Willis]

If this 'article' isn't a major promotion, I don't know what is. Wow. The power of the press. If I was Lohan I thank you.

[Stella]

Wow! Is this even a fashion critique or simply an "I hate Lindsay Lohan whine" masked as a fashion critique? You obviously don't like her. You pre-wrote this, added a few hasty "after the show" details to sound more credible, and then went out and got wasted with your fashion friends. While out with the gals, you gossiped about Lindsay, some drunken friend of yours mentioned her TMZ crotch fire design thus your, "There were a lot of minidresses in this show, many of them so short, they seemed to be inviting a TMZ crotch shot" line was born. You guys laughed you went home and you wrote some more based on you and your friends dislike for the girl, instead of doing some real journalist writing. Shame on you Booth Moore!

[amar ventris]

what brian reyes was unavailable?

[Polomoche]

Take heart: the word "garish" is alive and well

[Bubba]

I never really understood fashion shows to begin with. Most of the clothes you see at any show are enough to make you laugh yourself silly. Meanwhile the celebs. go Goo and Gaaa over clothes that nobody in their right mind would ever wear. So im not sure why the French are so hostile towards Lohan. The entire industry is a joke.

[muskegonheights]

Thanks to all Lindsay's friends for so obviously posting.

[Patrick]

Who are these paid-for-PR posters? Amongst other comments, "Nothing in the collection evidenced any real skill or discernible design work. In fact, you could probably find a lot of it already on the shelves at Kitson."

[JohBurgJen]

Been there, seen that. A totally pathetic attempt to put together a fashion show. Are you people joking? Lindsay should stay where she belongs.

[Rob]

It amazes me at how petty people can be. Bash the fashion, low blows and immature rants lessen your credibility.

The pasties are pretty rediculous though....

[Mr. Peligro]

What would Jesus...er...Anna Wintour say!!