New York Fashion Week review: Ralph Lauren does Depression chic
His spring collection was inspired by "the resilient spirit of America," and "the character of the worker, the farmer, the cowboy, the pioneer woman of the prairies living authentically through challenging times," as stated in his show notes. "Hard times sharpen our capacity for idealism and our optimism that tomorrow will be a better day."
What Lauren knows about hard times probably amounts to seeing his net worth fall from $4.2 billion to $4.1 billion or something like that, and the authenticity of work wear -- jeans, overalls and prairie floral dresses -- must seem quaint to someone who doesn't have to wear it. The theme is a special kind of minefield because this recession has been about workers bailing out fat cats who made bad investing decisions. So it's not as if we all just have to buckle down and things will get better. There are plenty of people buckling down and still being fired.
That being said, remember Lauren's roots: His is the ultimate rags-to-riches story. And though he may rule over a fashion empire now, at heart he's still that insecure Bronx boy named Lifshitz who got his start hawking neckties.
On the runway, there was a beautiful simplicity to much of his work wear with a twist -- the superbly tailored three-piece denim suit, the blue ombre silk charmeuse carpenter pants and work shirt, the sheer white organza bib-front shirtdress.
A sheer tulle beaded tunic worn over jeans was understatedly elegant, as was a metallic lamé work shirt gown in the most surprising metallic ice blue.
A pair of faded blue, ripped and beaded denim pants nodded to the '80s Balmainia still gripping fashion, and could no doubt find a home in Janet Jackson's closet.
The pop singer was sitting front row at the show with pal Dylan Lauren, the designer's daughter.
Say what you will about the wisdom of showing work wear -- including ripped jeans worn with crystal-studded stilletos -- on the runway now, when the unemployment rate is still climbing. But Lauren is a businessman through and through, with thousands of workers and investors relying on him. And as Emili Vesilind reported in Image last month, there's one thing that's still selling in this environment: bluejeans.
--Booth Moore
Photos: Ralph Lauren's spring/summer 2010 runway
More from New York Fashion Week
Photos: Ralph Lauren's spring/summer 2010 runway show. Credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times
It is both alarming and sad that this is what passes for 'fashion journalism' in Los Angeles.
Posted by: Fred Harris | September 21, 2009 at 12:54 PM
not sure of some of the specific fashions per se (however what girl would not want one of those simple summer dresses?) but ralph lauren is right on about "living authentically through challenging times." i mean this is a man who gets it - hope he can get another classic car for this. maybe he can write more of his thoughts dwn like this this is great stuff - i would buy a book if he worte one. i think he is one of the good guys.
Posted by: matt | September 21, 2009 at 01:30 PM
Hey!! I like this second dress.. really looking cool!!!
Posted by: maria simpson | September 22, 2009 at 04:24 AM
Those chicks could be wearing my dirty undies and 99 cent store t-shirts and they'd still look good.
Why do you think Lauren is worth 4 billion? Take gorgeous tall women, put them in dresses made by malaysian laborers making 75 cents an hour, then sell those dresses retail in the states for $200.
Frumpy women (twice as many frumps today as in 1984 btw) buy the clothes and think they are going to look like Christie Turlington. Lauren's operation mostly pockets the difference.
Why do otherwise smart women seem to lose their financial sense when it comes to assessing Lauren's -- and every other designer's -- game?
Maybe the real question is why I haven't figured a way to capitalize on this weakness in the "fairer" sex?
Posted by: Barnacle Bob | September 22, 2009 at 10:48 AM