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New York Fashion Week: Thakoon adds some sporty spice to his girly trademarks

Thakoon jacket For spring, Thakoon Panichgul, whose floral print dresses are favorites of the first lady, injected some sportiness into his girlish look with mixed results.

The focus was on a new, more body-conscious silhouette. SCUBA-inspired dresses with draped, Fortuny-pleated floral and lava-print silk, combined with techno twill color-blocking, felt overly tricky. Same thing goes for shifts with armor-like front panels of silk jacquard (a bit sandwich board-like), and silk T-shirts and ninja pants that mixed a riot of prints to dizzying effect.

The best pieces were jackets -- one molded to the body in a cyberfloral and techno twill mix, and another in black twill covered in waves of silver chains.

Still, I left wanting more.

-- Booth Moore

Pictures: Thakoon's spring / summer 2010 runway

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Photo: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson  / For The Times

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