Boho scuba gear for the jet set at Emilio Pucci

Designers in Milan are reclaiming the look of the jet set. Like Frida Giannini at Gucci, Peter Dundas went sexy and strong in his second season at Emilio Pucci, with draped minidresses and mini skirts, lace-up corset pants and cropped, leather and snakeskin jackets that had a 1980s North Beach Leather vibe.

This collection was less tricky than Gucci's with a minimum of surface embellishment, save for a sprinkling of sequins here and there, and some Boho fringe. Dundas struck a balance between sporty separates (great tulip-shape pants with gold snaps up the sides), sexy evening wear and covetable Boho accessories.

Where last season he practically ignored the house's signature prints, this season he reinterpreted them in a modern way, blowing them up in size, in some cases infusing them with metallic color, and splashing them on floaty racerback gowns, swimwear and scuba-inspired cropped jackets with peekaboo cutouts.

It all made for a fast-paced, high-impact show that should put Pucci on the path to becoming a new-old "it" brand.

-- Booth Moore

Photo: A look from Emilio Pucci's Spring/Summer 2010 women's RTW runway collection on Saturday during Milan Fashion Week. Photo credit: Peter Stigter and Jonas Gustavsson / For The Times

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