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PFW: Valentino just like Mom used to wear

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PARIS -- It’s been a rough few seasons since Valentino retired. The latest designers to take the helm at the house are Maria Grazia Churi and Pier Paolo Piccioli, who came from the accessories side.

Unfortunately, their fall show didn’t do much to bring the clothes in line with the covetable shoes and bags that have been embraced by the younger set.

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In other words, this was your mother’s Valentino.

They showed matronly looking shift dresses, albeit in lively shades of burgundy, jade green and warm yellow to go with the classic black and camel versions, fan-pleated over one hip or knotted at the waist. The same fox fur coat appeared in several iterations, including one covered in graduated crystal stones. Another coat came in ombre sheared mink. This was not recession chic.

And the long draped gowns, micropleated at the bodice and slit high up the leg, had none of the drama that characterized the red, red-carpet stunners of the house’s namesake designer.

-- Booth Moore

Photo: Francois Mori / Associated Press

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