MFW: Keeping an eye on Aquilano e Rimondi

MILAN — Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are Milan's most auspicious up-and-coming designers. They landed the top jobs at Gianfranco Ferre last year only to find out that the owner is bankrupt. And yet they have still managed to stay focused on that line, as well as on their own.

Their namesake collection displayed their flair for dramatic tailoring and fell in line with the season's strong shoulder trend. There were shades of Adrian in a black sheath with enormous hot pink velvet sleeves and a tweed coat with bushy fox fur sleeves.

But the designers managed to keep things from looking too costumey by tempering those diva looks with a more down-to-earth peaked shoulder tuxedo and tuxedo shirt dress. If only they could have exhibited that restraint in the Ferre show.

— Booth Moore

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Photograph: Giuseppe Aresu / Associated Press