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MFW: Emilio Pucci's prints for party people

February 28, 2009 |  3:30 pm

MILAN -- Another old house with another new designer. Norwegian Peter Dundas showed his first collection for Raage_pucci2 Emilio Pucci on Saturday, injecting a young, sexy, '80s-tinged energy into the Florentine label known for its psychedelic prints.

He opened with a series of clingy dresses, in faded earth-tone Pucci prints, that were so short you almost saw more than you wanted to. Add to that over-the-knee suede boots and the message was clear: This is not your grandmother's Pucci.

Slinky, zippered biker pants in denim or snakeskin were clearly aimed at the nightclubbing set, paired with enormous fur chubbys, oversized thunderbolt-print blazers or squiggle-print silk camp shirts.

For evening, the prints were deconstructed into swirling, beaded embroideries on skimpy minidresses, some with graphic lace cutouts. It all made for a compelling package. But with so many brands already doing the rock star look (Gucci, Balmain, Alexander Wang), is there really room for another?

-- Booth Moore

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Photo: A fall '09 look from the Emilio Pucci runway show during Milan Fashion Week. Credit: Giulio di Mauro / European Pressphoto Agency