Leather-clad cover artists

Fancy a Ruscha for your rucksack or a Baldessari in your briefcase? Then plan on popping by the Beverly Hills Smythson store tomorrow and snapping up one of its completely covetable, extremely limited-edition art diaries.The Bond Street purveyor of status stationery has collaborated with artists Ed Ruscha, John Baldessari, Rachel Whiteread and Gary Hume to create genuine works of art that can help you keep a handle on your genuine works of art — in a meta, M.C. Escher sort of way.
Each size (the 5.5-inch by 3.5-inch, 224-page “Panama,” $700, and 7.75-inch by 5.75-inch, 192-page “Mayfair,” $900, includes the same featherweight, pale blue, silver-edged sheets. And along with monthly and yearly (2009 and 2010) planners, there’s a compendium of art dealers, record prices, emerging art markets and extensive listings of art fairs, museums and galleries (edited by the London-based Art Newspaper).
But contrary to what our mothers always taught us, in this instance it’s what’s on the outside that really matters — each artist’s handiwork is translated into just 200 of each size book, bound in lambskin and individually numbered.
The glossy, simplified outlines of Gary Hume’s American Tan X 2006-07 and A Great Victory 2006-07 are re-created in colored leather inlays. Samples from Rachel Whiteread’s Untitled (nets) 2002 series of etchings are rendered by dipping a digitally etched brass blocking die in silver, Baldessari’s ear and nose imagery is captured on vegetable-tanned lambskin, and a riff on Ruscha's 1984 painting I Forgot to Remember to Forget is split into two diaries — the larger printed with “I Remembered to Forget” and the smaller “I Forgot to Remember.”
The Smythson store at 222 N. Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills is one of only two U.S. retailers stocking the line, (the other is in New York), but if you want to make sure your date with a cover artist is on the books, you might want to place a pre-order online at smythson.com.
-- Adam Tschorn
Smythson's limited-edition art diaries made in collaboration with Ed Ruscha, top, and John Baldassari, bottom, are among those that go on sale Sept. 30. Only 200 of each size by each of four artists will be sold. Photos courtesy of Smythson of Bond Street.

Economic woes hit the bag brigade -- is there a new hobo in town?

You know it's bad when the recession hits the front row at fashion week, ground zero for the bag- and frock-obsessed, most price-resistant people in the universe. By this time in the fashion cycle, editors are usually festooned with the newest, the latest, the craziest clothing and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana and Marni.

But not this season. Instead, most are trying to avoid temptation, sometimes by avoiding Milan's Golden Triangle shopping area altogether.

"I went into Prada and usually I go crazy. But this time, nothing," a Vogue editor said. An editor at Flair in Toronto was forgoing her usual trip not only to Marni, but even the Marni outlet.

A Lucky magazine editor was sporting the one new carryall that's made multiple appearances, the sparkly YSL Besace bag. "It's not expensive as bags go these days," she said. (I don't know, $1,895 sounds pretty expensive to me.)

Meanhile, Tod's threw a party Wednesday night to celebrate a Dennis Hopper-directed short film starring Gwyneth Paltrow (you can see "Pashmy Dream" at www.tods.com) and the brand's proposal for It bag of the fall season -- the nylon Pashmy hobo, which at $925 seems more in the neighborhood of affordable luxury.

An Elle editor hobbling from show to show on sky-high Miu Miu shoes from fall confessed that they were actually borrowed runway samples. A Harper's Bazaar editor was still wearing summer's Christian Louboutin cage sandals, except with tights.

In fact, the only ones really wearing the newest, the latest and the craziest are celebs. And they don't have to spend a dime. It's a cruel  world and it's getting crueler by the minute ...

-- Booth Moore

Top photo: Gwyneth Paltrow in a still from "Pashmy Dream," a Dennis Hopper-directed short film that premiered in Milan on Wednesday. Bottom photo, Tod's Pashmy hobo bag, $925, both courtesy of Tod's.

Patricia Field's new looks for HSN: Would Carrie approve? Yes

You now own a corsage and know that Manolo is not a Spanish dessert.  Yes, "Sex and the City" designer Patricia Field taught you plenty about fashion and taking risks and spending way too much money. Now, her new line, "Destination Style," is finally available on HSN. And guess what? It's kind of slutty, sort of cute and definitely not for everyone -- a lot like Field herself.
The fave? This scoop neck floral tiered ruffle dress, left, that works with ballet flats or pumps. I love the colors and the silhouette. Pair it with a black leather jacket or cropped cardigan, ($129.90)  There is a matching coat that should not be seen within a mile of this dress. Pick one or the other.

Her skinny black jeans, upper right, which, blessedly, go up to a size 39, sell for $49.90 and would work well with an oversized men's oxford and pumps.

The yikes? This jumbo corsage dress at right  ($149.90) that screams, "I am Carrie! Get me a cosmo!" I wish that Field didn't repeat herself and resort to merchandising a look so associated with the TV show and movie. What I like about Field is that she encourages women to try a new look or play with an accessory. The better bet is this corsage belt, ($29.90) -- which feels very Chanel -- and is more of a wink, rather than a full blown bow, to Carrie Bradshaw's inimitable style.

To read more about Patricia Field and her inspirations, check out this story in Image that takes a closer look at the woman behind the tutus.

-- Monica Corcoran

Olsen twins empire extends to footwear

Care to mince a mile in the shoes of the Olsen twins?

The elfin entrepreneurs have announced that they will launch a line of shoes in mid-2009  -- designed with Steve Madden -- to add to their Elizabeth and James brand. WWD has the scoop. You may recall that the sisters have already designed jewelry with Robert Lee Morris and put their stamp on a fashion coffee-table book that probably outweighs them collectively.

Is everybody the new Oprah?

-- Monica Corcoran

Photo: Getty Images

First impressions at Prada: Cruel shoes and crinkled cotton

First thoughts from the front row at Prada's spring show: steamy hot  Deep South, sweat rolling down your back, "Cat on a Hot Tin Roof," shedding your "skin" for summer, "Mad Women" letting loose.

Fabulous red-and-white mermaid and fish print skirts, bra tops and jackets in crinkled cotton. No ironing required, living life half undressed, leaving the city and the office behind.

Agonizing shoes, platform snakeskin pumps worn over bow-back Peds. Would have been better to kick them off and go barefoot.

That's summer, that's freedom.

-- Booth Moore

Photos: A model turns her ankle and is caught by a front-row audience member at Prada's Spring/Summer 2009 runway show today in Milan, Italy. Credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times.

Milan: Optimism, pinups and Pop Art

Against a backdrop of financial uncertainty, there is a playful optimism to some of the runway shows for the spring season, in the form of cartoonish silhouettes, Pop Art colors and prints. It started with Michael Kors' 1950s, full-skirted gingham romp in New York and has now hit Milan at D&G and Moschino.

Los Angeles-based pop star Katy Perry is undoubtedly one inspiration for designers' modern day pinups, and there she was looking perky in the front row at D&G. The collection was an ode to sunny playgrounds such as Cap d'Antibes and Cannes, with striped knit bathing suits, sequin sweaters emblazoned with anchors and pleated shirts in a sailing knot print.

Models walked on red, white and blue platform sandals that laced up the leg, and sported floppy sun hats or knit bathing caps with over-sized round sunglasses. There were also boxy tweed jackets in the spirit of  Chanel, high-waist sailor pants, and sweaters in a metallic red, white and blue fisherman's knit that sparkled like fireworks. What a blast.

The fun continued Tuesday morning at Moschino, where British singer Roisin Murphy was the guest of honor, with a teased Rockabilly updo to rival Amy Winehouse's in the pop star hair of fame.

On the runway, models wore the same hairstyle, along with candy-colored silk swing coats and shifts with cartoon-size bows at the neck, and jeweled cat's eye sunglasses.

If it all sounds over-the-top, it wasn't. There were plenty of little black dresses and a lovely evening coat in chiffon whirled into flower buds. A beige satin coatdress with ruffled cap sleeves was nice, too. Exaggerated wedge platforms were cool, as was a handbag that spelled out what should be the season's tagline: "Ideal Dress = No Stress."

Elsewhere on the runway, I was looking forward to seeing what Raf Simons had up his sleeve at Jil Sander, since "simple," "architectural" and "classic" are becoming buzz words for the season. With a Man Ray portrait as a backdrop for the runway, he spun a tale of 1920s elegance and African tribalism-- tunics swinging fringe, shift dresses and coats slit under the arms for subtle plays on color and light, and spectacular jackets in intriguing swing shapes or with free-floating panels or cowl backs.

Shoe heels were inspired by Brancusi sculptures, and earrings -- part of a new jewelry line in collaboration with Italian jeweler Damiani -- resembled spears studded with diamonds.

But the models in the show were unsettling, to say the least. All white automatons with slick ponytails, they looked like an Aryan army. The show was inspired by Africa! Who does he think lives there? And in this era, when the luxury fashion business truly is global, there was no excuse.

-- Booth Moore

Photos top to bottom: Michael Kors' Spring/Summer 2009 collection from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York earlier this month, D&G, Moschino  and Jil Sander all in Milan this week. All photos by Kirk McKoy, Los Angeles Times.

Sonya Dakar, facialist to the famous, pleads not guilty in battery charge

This morning, a lawyer representing Sonya Dakar, facialist to the famous, entered a plea of not guilty to a charge of battery on her client’s behalf in Los Angeles County Superior Court in Beverly Hills. Dakar, who was not present at the proceeding, was arrested July 29 after allegedly attempting to bite the hand of an inspector from the California Department of Consumer Affairs Bureau of Barbering and Cosmetology during a routine inspection July 29. (See the original story here).

Judge H. Chester Horn Jr. said that as a condition of her continued release on $20,000 bond, Dakar was not to interfere with any inspection efforts on behalf of the Bureau of Barbering and Cosmetology and that she was not to act as manager of the skin-care clinic that bears her name at 9975 S. Santa Monica Blvd. in Beverly Hills. “There needs to be a manager other than Ms. Dakar,” he advised Dakar’s attorney.

The case is scheduled to return to court for a pretrial hearing Oct. 7.

-- Adam Tschorn

Photo: Facialist to the stars Sonya Dakar, left, with Paula Abdul at a 2007 Emmy gifting lounge. Credit: Michael Bezjian / WireImage

L.A.'s Eastside goes glam with new beauty spots

L.A.'s Eastside is suddenly booming with new beauty spots — geared to the neighborhoods' growing luxe-hipster set. So the outposts are as posh as Bev Hills spas, but instead of piped-in Enya, you get to vibe out to Radiohead.

And it's about time. With gas prices busting our budgets, driving across town for a facial seems pretty preposterous.

Here are some of the best — and freshest — Eastside places to get glam:

Body Bar Urban Spa & Boutique
Where it is: Silver Lake
Why it's tops: This modern, minimalist outpost (see photo, left) offers a full menu of sophisticated facials — from your basic extraction-and-massage deal to more hard-core microdermabrasion, glycolic and vitamin C options — and body treatments including massages, wraps and active baths (i.e. volcanic ash and milk whey). And the space itself is gorgeous — featuring polished concrete floors, vintage-style bathrooms and the best pre-treatment "chill-out" room around, boasting super low lighting, hip magazines and fetching modern furnishings.
3037 West Sunset Blvd., (323) 663-1533

Lucas Salon
Where it is: Echo Park
Why it’s tops: Lucas is a hipster salon with down-home appeal (you won’t be intimidated, but you also won’t have to explain what an “Agyness Deyn crop” is). And you get a lot of bang for your buck — the stylists are stellar and haircut prices hover around $100, depending on whose seat you're parked in. But no need to be choosy — they’re all good.
1541 Echo Park Ave., (213) 250-7992

Stark Waxing Studio
Where it is: Silver Lake
Why it’s tops: This intimate, loft-like studio (see photo, right) is on a major thoroughfare and graciously accepts walk-ins (Viva after-work waxing!) Aestheticians use hard wax and strip wax, depending on the consistency of the hair and where is it on your bod. The lobby is stocked with yummy beauty products and candles from posh brands including Malin & Goetz, This Works and Mor — so you can grab that birthday gift on the way out.
3335 W. Sunset Blvd., (323) 666-3335

Dtox Day Spa
Where it is: Atwater Village
Why it's tops: This Griffith Park-adjacent hideaway, which resembles a pagoda crossed with a SoHo loft, is a solid all-around spa in a neighborhood suddenly flush with fledgling, upscale businesses. There’s the usual run down of facials, body treatments and waxing, in addition to some oddities (chocolate lover’s facial, anyone?). But book early — it gets busy on the weekends and can rarely accommodate walk-ins.
3206 Los Feliz Blvd., (323) 665-3869

-- Emili Vesilind

Photos courtesy of Body Bar Urban Spa and Boutique (top) and Stark Waxing Studio (bottom).

New Gianfranco Ferré design duo gets off on the right foot

It was surreal landing in Milan, Italy, for fashion week, gearing up to look at expensive clothes on the runway while we're in the midst of a global banking crisis. Who's going to buy these things? Ah well, I guess no matter what's happening in the world, we all gotta get dressed.

Still, it's not the best time for a luxury brand to be relaunching, which is exactly what's happening  with Gianfranco Ferré. The Italian designer known for his architectural approach, his passion for India and his genius white blouses, died last year. But as we all know, in fashion a label never dies. So on Sunday, a new Ferré was unveiled under the direction of the two most up-and-coming designers in Milan, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi of 6267 fame.

It was a great start. The design duo focused on sculptural pieces with architectural details -- such as ruffles down the front of a pencil skirt, and pieced together cap sleeves on a molded jacket that brought to mind a "Star Trek" uniform -- all in subdued black, white and gray.

Skinny pants and skirts had side pockets with origami-like folds and were worn with severely tailored tunics with jeweled belts. And of course, there were white shirts, the best an oval shape with a sheer back and leg o' mutton sleeves. The shoes were geometric wonders with open oval or spindly jeweled heels.

It was a high impact show. And yet, there was something stiff and unemotional about it too, like they were trying too hard to prove they are serious designers at their young ages. No matter, that impulse should wear off.

Later that night, I sat next to Stefano Bacchini, who is in charge of sales for Ferré. He said there are plans to overhaul all the Ferré stores around the world, including the one on Rodeo Drive. "We are starting from scratch," Bacchini said. Forget the designers, he has the heavy lifting.

-- Booth Moore

Photos: Gianfranco Ferré Spring/Summer 2009 runway show in Milan, Italy. Credit: Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times

Emmys: The red carpet scorecard

AT LAST year's somber Emmys, the red carpet looked more like an Irish wake than an award show, with a sea of black sheaths on parade. But this year -- with no looming strike to dampen spirits -- actresses dressed like brides on their second marriages, determined to eclipse their prior vows.

Thankfully, though a few trends emerged, none dominated completely. Save for bare clavicles. Perhaps it was the recent collapse of Lehman Brothers that had most attendees avoiding Elizabeth Taylor-worthy statement necklaces and opting for oversized earrings and bold cuff bracelets. Only nominee America Ferrera, wearing a 19th century diamond flower necklace from Fred Leighton, and Nicolette Sheridan adorned their throats.

Bold colors, rather than carats, proved to be the prevailing look-this-way ploy. And on this 76-degree Sunday afternoon, refreshing sorbet was the inspiration. Brooke Shields dazzled in a ruffled raspberry Badgley Mischka gown, while Tina Fey in David Meister and Holly Hunter in Jenny Packham chose variations on grape. Julia Louis-Dreyfus' melon Narciso Rodriguez, with its beaded bandage bodice, was a sexy and daring choice that paid off. Her uninspired updo, however, felt frumpy by comparison.

Yellow, which can backfire severely, worked wonders on a bronzed Mariska Hargitay in Carolina Herrera and raven-haired Teri Hatcher. Christina Applegate, nominated for her role on "Samantha Who?," wafted like incense in a Reem Acra silk organza, jacquard draped gown in soft blue. "Ugly Betty" nominee Ferrera's poufy black confection felt like it fell out of an auntie's closet and didn't complement her vixen-red lips and Veronica Lake waves. A column gown or mermaid cut would have been a much better and younger bet for the only nominee under 30.

It was refreshing to see a few bare knees too. Eva Longoria Parker and Kyra Sedgwick looked sophisticated in cocktail-length dresses. Marcia Cross' blush-toned Elie Saab was a wonder, with dozens of elaborate floral appliques.

The more mature contenders certainly didn't let age-old fashion directives affect their choices. Fortysomethings like Sedgwick and Mary-Louise Parker showed off manes that could sweep chimneys. Holly Hunter, at 50, looked ready to hang 10 with her beach bunny blond locks.

Oh, and was there a big game on this afternoon? How else to explain the fact that the men didn't exactly go all out? Most arrived in simple, knotted ties and nary a lapel pin. The guys from "Entourage" in shiny matching knotted ties and tousled hair could easily have been mistaken for a boy band, if it hadn't been for Kevin Dillon's sleek bow tie. Patrick Dempsey and Lee Pace (the latter a nominee for "Pushing Daisies") also commanded respect in sophisticated tuxedos.

But in the end, it was Christina Hendricks of "Mad Men" who caused red carpet collisions and gapes of envy in her ruched Tadashi gown. The sheer magnitude of her alabaster bosom made her stand out like a natural monument. Add to that a goddess-like upsweep of her Titian locks and dramatic cat-eye makeup. Sometimes, more is more.

-- Monica Corcoran and Erin Weinger

Photos: Getty Images