Los Angeles designers make splash at New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week kicked off this week with more than 300 scheduled presentations for the media and retail buyers. The biannual event is a showcase not only for designers and labels based in the Big Apple, but for those from around the world.

And this year, especially, for those from Los Angeles. The Times' fashion critic Booth Moore says in a story for this Sunday's Image section that L.A.'s designers have grown beyond the decades-old stereotype: casual clothes involving surf or skates and a laid-back attitude. Now they are known for polished, sophisticated designs worthy of the world stage, and many of them are unveiling their collections for this fall in New York.

Of course, the West Coast is the capital of denim, as writer Adam Tschorn reminds in the same section. But now even our denim purveyors, such as Levi Strauss, 7 For All Mankind, Rock & Republic and Hudson Jeans, are showing their wares on New York runways and at other New York events, right alongside the more glamorous luxury labels.

It seems like we're in for quite a fashion week. And you can follow Moore and Tschorn's musings on our All the Rage blog as they go from one event to another over the next few days.

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--Susan Denley 

Photo: Models wearing Corey Lynn Calter pose for a photo during Corey Lynn Calter's presentation in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Pier 59 Studios on Feb. 8 in New York City. Credit: Joe Kohen /Getty Images.

New York Fashion Week 2012: Juan Carlos Obando

Designer Juan Carlos Obando, who lives in Los Angeles, has been on a roll lately. Viola Davis wore his fuchsia halter dress to the Oscar nominees luncheon the other day. And Arianne Phillips, nominated for an Oscar in the costume design category for her work on "W.E." told me at Obando's runway show that he will be making her gown for Oscar night.

On the runway, Obando wasn't afraid to show styles that are similar to what he's done before. Fluttery, bias-cut, silk chiffon dresses in dynamite bright colors are a signature for him, so why not show them off? This season, they came in chartreuse, peony pink and orange crush with assymetrical or fishtail hems adding an interesting twist to the silhouettes. The addition of streamer-like scarves made for a wonderfully graphic statement as models walked down the runway.

In keeping with his flair for unique craftsmanship, Obando brought a beautifully distressed look to the floral crystal embroidery on satin dresses and jackets by dousing the embroidery in vinegar, ripping it apart and sewing it back together to create the imperfect perfect detail.

The day wear had a lightness similar to the evening wear, from a featherweight puffer vest that seemed to glow from the inside to a fluidly draped, black-and-white skirt that captured the essence of motion. Knotted crystal rope necklaces grounded the looks.

Everyone went crazy for the fur motocross jackets and were shocked to learn afterward that they are faux. Obando said he had been developing the faux fur pieces for more than a year with a German mill. He wanted furs that were all different colors, and he got them. The most fabulous jacket of the bunch came in a tonal color block. Well done.

-- Booth  Moore

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Photos of Juan Carlos Obando's fall/winter 2012 collection. Credit: Dario Cantatore / Getty Images. 

Fashion News: Naomi Watts to play Princess Diana

One of the fun events of New York Fashion Week is the Heart Truth Red Dress fashion show, in which celebrity models walk the runway in red designer gowns to raise awareness about women's heart health. This year's show, on Wednesday, featured an eclectic group, including Chaka Khan, Jenna Elfman, Minka Kelly, Patti Stanger, Rose McGowan, Gloria Estefan, Christie Brinkley, LaLa Anthony and Debbie Phelps -- who stopped at the end of the runway to kiss son Michael, the Olympic swimmer. [The Cut]

Naomi Watts has been tapped to play fashion icon Princess Diana in an upcoming film, "Caught in Flight," which is about the last two years of Diana's life and centers on her love affair with Dr. Hasnat Khan. [People] 

"The Descendants" star Shailene Woodley doesn't mind people making fun of her for wearing those strange five-toed shoes to a Golden Globes after-party. "If people spent as much time thinking about the genocides going on in Africa and around the world as they do the shoes that actors wear to after-parties, the world would be a much more peaceful environment," she told Vulture.

Michelle Dockery, who plays Lady Mary on the hit television series "Downton Abbey," says it is important for her to stay out of the sun because a tan wouldn't look right with the stunning costumes. She also has learned to like the corsets. "You can't slouch," she said. [Telegraph] 

In January, there were some dubious reports of First Lady Michelle Obama and Sheikha Moza, the queen of Qatar, having streets blocked off while they bought lingerie at Agent Provocateur in London -- dubious because Agent Provocateur is known for its discretion when it comes to clients' names. Now the Telegraph has published a correction and apology saying the shopping spree never happened and apologizing. [Telegraph]

J.C. Penney is dropping the Ralph Lauren American Living brand, apparently because it is too pricey for the "reinvented" -- i.e., cheaper -- Penney's. [Racked]

Fergie has been selected as the first celebrity brand representative for Wet 'n' Wild makeup. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

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-- Susan Denley

Photo: Chaka Khan shows the wingspan of her gown, by Chris March, as other celebrity models wave to the crowd at the Heart Truth Red Dress show. Credit:  Amanda Schwab /Associated Press / StarPix

New York Fashion Week 2012: Kimberly Ovitz

Bright color is a huge trend for the coming spring-summer 2012 season, and it's been fun to watch the fashionistas at the runway shows in New York trying to incorporate sunny shades into their nearly all-black winter wardrobes.

Usually, they pick one colorful piece -- a pair of pants, for example, or a bright yellow purse, like the one J. Crew creative director Jenna Lyons (at right) carried to a show Thursday. It stuck out like a neon sign against her fur capelet and black pencil skirt, and it looked great.

From the first few seconds of the soundtrack (Nancy Sinatra's "Bang Bang"), it was clear Kimberly Ovitz wouldn't be doing the happy-color thing. This was a dark and stormy affair inspired by Samurai warriors and African tribal costumes, and it was powerfully elegant, with the fringed yarn details on one short black dress, and the knotted, embroidery and fringe on another calling to mind flappers by way of "Mad Max."

This collection was a huge leap forward for Ovitz, with lots of incredible details, and a complete range of offerings. 

Other standouts: a moto jacket with a ribbed knit zip-off hem, a shaggy cowl neck sweater and slouchy black pants with an amazing-looking fringed leather apron worn over top. 

The fringe, it turns out, was human hair. "Horse hair didn't move right," Ovitz said. "It's kind of gross, but I figured people weave it into their hair all the time when they get hair extensions."

True, true.

-- Booth Moore in New York

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Top and bottom photos: Kimberly Ovitz's fall-winter 2012 collection. Credit: Peter Michael Dills / Getty Images

Center photo: Jenna Lyons. Credit: Booth Moore

New York Fashion Week 2012: Corey Lynn Calter

The fall/winter 2012 runway show season started with a joyous jolt of color from Corey Lynn Calter. The designer, who lives in Los Angeles, said she was inspired by light and positivity. The collection was full of easy, tailored separates in light brights, including a rust, button-front pencil skirt worn and floral print T-shirt, lace skinny pants with a lemon yellow short-sleeve coat, and an ombre sequin stripe shift dress in sunset tones.

More louche looks included a rainbow stripe shirt-dress and clashing geometric-print palazzo pants. Sparrow bird intarsia knits, color-blocked Peter Pan blouses and colorful iPad cases added to the prissy, grown-up schoolgirl vibe. (Attention "Glee" costume designer Lou Eyrich, you might want to check out Calter's clothes for the lovable priss Emma Pillsbury.) 

Calter's collection packed a lot of punch for the price. It will retail for $150 to $500.

-- Booth Moore from New York

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Photos of Corey Lynn Calter's Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Credit: Joe Kohen/Getty Images for Corey Lynn Calter.

Men's accessories: Fancy a hat beard for that buttonhole?

In the run-up to writing a piece on men's lapel pins (it's in this month's Los Angeles Times Magazine), I've been paying particular attention to what some of the more fashion-forward fellows have been accessorizing with, and have come away impressed with some of the creative repurposing I've seen.

I found one of my favorites at a recent party where, in addition to a surfeit of stylish ready-made lapel pins (think jeweled bugs, leather flowers and the like), stylist Miles Siggins (who's lengthy resume includes a long-running stint on a little show called "American Idol," and who still works with host Ryan Seacrest) was sporting a flourish of fabric in his breast pocket and pinned securely in place by a pale pink stone. Higgins explained to us that the stone was actually a repurposed earring that had once belonged to his grandmother -- a back story that makes it both stylish and darling.

Personally, I've been wearing a lapel pin with a bit of a back story as well -- though a markedly different one. When I was back home in Vermont for the holidays, I found some cool-looking hat pins at the Orvis flagship store in Manchester, one of which was a perfect addition to my left lapel.

Orvis has been carrying the pins since about 2006, according to a company representative, and they've apparently been a steady seller ever since. They provided me the following account of how the pins ended up in the merchandise mix:

We do some business with a company based in Germany,  the owner is an avid hunter and had a St. Hubertus deer pin on one of his hunting hats. (St. Hubertus is the patron saint of hunters, the image of the deer was made famous in the U.S. by being on the label of Jagermeister bottles.) We asked the significance of the pin and where he got it, the story was told over a few  Kellerbiers, (I will not do the teller the injustice of trying to recapture it in an email), and we quickly came to the conclusion that our customers might enjoy this kind of authentic and traditional accessory. 

What intrigued me though, was the description of the pins as "hat beards" (anyone who knows me knows that headgear and facial hair are two of my favorite topics) which prompted me to purchase one on the spot. The odd description made more sense after subsequent research revealed that the German word for the hat pins is "gamsbart" (literally "chamois beard"), and they are traditionally made from the tufts of hair on the chamois' lower neck -- though today they're made from various animal hair -- with one end crimped into an ornamental metal setting.

But the best part is, as the folks at the online outfitter Bavarian-Lederhosen explain it: "The size of a Gamsbart is very important and depends on the men's pride and manliness since Gamsbärte are exclusively for men's hats."

I don't know about you, but I'll probably never look at a lapel pin the same way again.

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Left photo: George Esquivel floral lapel pins ($95 to $175). Credit: Adam Tschorn / Los Angeles Times

Right photo: Outdoor outfitter Orvis sells a selection of hat pins ($19 to $39) -- most of which can do double-duty as a lapel pin, with an interesting back story to boot.  Credit:  Orvis

Fashion: Super Bowl winner Victor Cruz kicks off N.Y. Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week cranks into high gear on Thursday, but a few shows took place Wednesday. Victor Cruz of the Super Bowl champion New York Giants cut the ribbon for the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week portion of the fashion extravaganza. [The Cut]

Among the collections of clothes shown Wednesday that we may be wearing in fall 2012 were muted tones at Steve Alan, plaid and feminine silhouettes at 10 Crosby by Derek Lam, and interesting textures and patterns at Organic by John Patrick, says The Cut.

Check in with All the Rage for more coverage during the week from Los Angeles Times' fashion critic Booth Moore and writer Adam Tschorn.

In other news, New York Giants running back Brandon Jacobs apologized for saying supermodel Gisele Bundchen -- wife of Patriots quarterback Tom Brady -- "needs to continue to be cute and shut up." That comment was in response to Bundchen's criticism of Brady's receivers after the team's Super Bowl loss. Jacobs' still thinks she's cute but apologized for the "shut up" part. [Fox News Latino]

Diane von Furstenberg has designed a limited edition of four Diet Coke bottles. They will be available through the end of February in four-packs in select Von Furstenberg boutiques for $30. All proceeds go to the Foundation for the National Institutes of Health in support of the Heart Truth program for women's heart health research. [FashionEtc.]

Rapper and wanna-be designer Kanye West, undaunted by overall poor reviews when he showed his first women's wear collection last year, announced he will return to Paris Fashion Week on March 6 to show his sophomore collection. [Telegraph]

Cartman, Randy Marsh and Butters from "South Park" have stripped down to appear on Marc Jacobs T-shirts that benefit the Interdisciplinary Melanoma Cooperative Group at New York University. They're in good company. Previous participants in the "Protect Your Largest Organ" (meaning skin) T-shirt initiative include Naomi Campbell, Dita Von Teese and Victoria Beckham. The shirts are onsale online and at select Marc Jacobs boutiques for $35. [WWD]

Carrefour, the European retailer, plans to launch what is being called a "massive" line of beauty products. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

Tommy Bahama, purveyor of the chic Island lifestyle, has named a new creative director, Ferdinand van Alphen, formerly of Tommy Hilfiger. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

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 -- Susan Denley

Photo: The ribbon-cutting ceremony at Lincoln Center for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  From left  are designer Naeem Khan; Lincoln Center director of fashion Stephanie Winston-Wolkoff; New York Giants wide receiver Victor Cruz; model Kate Upton;  Mercedes-Benz USA executive Lisa Holladay; and  IMG Fashion executive Peter Levy. Credit:  Michael Loccisano/Getty Images

Spirit hoods and Butterick patterns inspire Shag's latest paintings

Although still firmly rooted in the Mid-Century bachelor bacchanalia he's known for, the latest batch of paintings by Josh "Shag" Agle also manages to mine a trend we've noticed over the last few seasons -- animal prints and curious pieces of hipster-meets-wildlife headgear, like those made by SpiritHoods.

In the paintings, which are part of a new solo show, "Animal Kingdom," that opens Saturday at the Corey Helford Gallery in Culver City, gamine gals can be found lounging about in all manner of feline finery, or playing cat-and-mouse with an assortment of well-dressed fellows sporting antlers or horsing around in equine costumes.  

"I'd started noticing the hoodies and the knit caps with the ears not last year but the year before," Shag told All The Rage recently. "And I thought they were cute, but then I came across some of those old Butterick patterns at the Long Beach Veterans [Stadium] flea market -– and there was one in particular that was for making kids’ and adults' animal costumes. There were different patterns for ears and tails so depending on what fabric you used you could change the costume."

"I've been painting women dressed as cats and things like that for years, but I liked the idea of painting people in costumes to sort of represent their persona, and that was the germ behind the idea for this group of paintings."

Agle said there will be 15 new paintings as well as some rare prints "and a few other things" at the upcoming show. He also filled us in on the details of the 2010 accident that landed him in the hospital and temporarily sidelined his career.

"In late 2010, I fell through a big, giant plate glass window at my house -- like the ones in my paintings, I have huge floor-to-ceiling walls of glass in my house -- I'd gotten back from a trip to the U.K. at about 3 a.m. and stupidly thought I wouldn't go to bed and [would] just start working, even though I'd been up for almost 48 hours. I started feeling lightheaded and that's the last thing I remember before waking up in intensive care in the hospital."

Agle says the resulting injuries forced him to stop painting for a while. "I couldn't even really hold a paintbrush," he said. "So I took most of 2011 off; I didn't paint for a few months or do any shows." 

A little over a year later, he says he's back at it. "I have some scars and a little bit of nerve damage in my shoulder, but for the most part I’m recovered. ... I love to work. I’m a workaholic."

In addition to the upcoming show, Shag's artwork and inspiration will soon be seen on Harvey's handbags and limited-edition Vannen timepieces, both slated to make their debut this spring.

In the meantime, any cool cats and hipster kitties prowling for a Shag fix would do well to bust out their best spirit hood and shake a tail feather over to the Culver City gallery

Shag's "Animal Kingdom," Feb. 11 to March 7, Corey Helford Gallery, 8533 Washington Blvd., Culver City. 

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-- Adam Tschorn

Photo: "The Cat Carrier" is one of the 15 Shag paintings set to appear in the artist's upcoming solo show. Credit: Corey Helford Gallery

J Brand launches ready to wear

L.A.-based brand and celebrity denim go-to, J Brand, is branching out into ready to wear. The contemporary line, which hits stores this Friday, has a clean, minimal aesthetic, not unlike the logo-less, sleek skinny jeans that made the label famous back in 2005.

Pieces like cropped slim trousers, tailored blazers and fitted leather shirts come in a subdued, neutral color palette of black, gray, cream and muted pinks and lilac.

“We decided to move into ready to wear because we felt it was the time to elevate the brand and dress our customer around her jeans,” says J Brand CEO Jeff Rudes. And with all the chunky knits, buttery leathers and soft chambray tops in the collection, it’s not hard to see how everything here easily pairs back with denim.

This isn’t the first foray into fashion for the brand; they’ve done collaborations with Hussein Chalayan (where J Brand jeans appeared on the runway) and Christopher Kane, a spring 2012 collection full of high-waisted skinny jeans and shorts done in over-dyed pastels.

The J Brand ready to wear line ranges from $200-$1500 and will be available at jbrandjeans.com, Ron Herman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Intermix

--Melissa Magsaysay

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Photos: Looks from the J Brand ready-to-wear collection. Credit: J Brand

Scarlett Johansson, Anna Wintour step out to support Obama 2012

Planning on supporting the Obama campaign this year with a campaign pin, or maybe a bumper sticker? For the stylish set, there's a much more fashionable way to show your support.

Just a few days before the fashion world's elite show their collections in New York City for fashion week, some of them stepped out to support the Obama reelection campaign at the Runway to Win fundraiser Tuesday evening. Hosted by Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and actress Scarlett Johansson, the fundraiser featured Obama campaign gear designed by designers Tory Burch, Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Diane Von Furstenberg and others. Proceeds from the sales go to help reelect President Obama.  

Prices of Runway to Win items far exceed those for your average campaign pins or bumper stickers. Some of the items include a $75 Tory Burch-designed Obama tote bag, a $95 Monique Péan circle scarf featuring Obama's face, and a $45 Altuzarra v-neck tee with the words "Obama 2012" across the bottom.

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-- Jenn Harris
twitter.com/jenn_harris

Photos, from left: Tory Burch-designed Obama tote and the Monique Péan Obama circle scarf. Credit: store.barackobama.com