New guide ranks safe, effective sunscreens for 2012

The best sun protection is a broad-brimmed hat and clothing, but it's the rare Angeleno who wants to wear long sleeves and pants in the heat of summer. Most of us use sunscreen, but what are the safest and most effective products?

According to the 2012 Sunscreen Guide released Wednesday by the nonprofit Environmental Working Group, just 25% of sunscreens are effective and safe to use. That's an improvement from the group's 2011 guide, which recommended just 20% of sunscreens.

The Environmental Working Group, in Washington, D.C., analyzed the ingredient lists of more than 800 beach and sport sunscreens. The sunscreens that made the cut do not use the vitamin A ingredient retinyl palmitate, which may heighten skin cancer risk when applied to sun-exposed skin. Nor do they use oxybenzone, a chemical that is known to disrupt hormones.

Many of the recommended products use mineral ingredients, including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and are spread on the body in lotions rather than sprays or powders which, the group says, pose inhalation risks.

Sunscreens with SPF ratings of 50 and above were also given poor ratings since "high-SPF users are exposed to as many or more ultraviolet rays as those who use lower-SPF products, probably because consumers get a false sense of security from those big numbers. They wait too long before reapplying sunscreen and stay out too long," the report said.

The sunscreen guide found that 14% of the beach and sport sunscreens it analyzed claimed SPFs greater than 50. Seven percent did not contain ingredients known to protect against the UVA rays that cause wrinkles and skin damage.

Moisturizers, makeups and lip balms fared particularly poorly for their lack of UVA protection and inclusion of retinyl palmitate. The 2012 guide recommends nine percent of lip balms, seven percent of makeups and nine percent of daily moisturizers with built-in SPF.

On the positive side, the guide reports that 63% of children's sunscreens contain effective mineral ingredients, compared with 40% of other sunscreens.

Still, "sunscreens or moisturizers or makeups with SPF is only part of a full sun-protection routine," said Nneka Leiba, senior research analyst with the Environmental Working Group. "It's also extremely important to wear protective clothing, to wear UV-blocking sunglasses and to avoid the mid-day sun. All these things together offer the best sun protection."

The searchable 2012 database lists sunscreens by brand and type, and can be screened for specific ingredients. Recommended products are listed in green and also include pricing information.

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-- Susan Carpenter

Top photo: Sun bathers in Miami Beach, Fla. Credit: J. Pat Carter / Associated Press

Lower photo credit:  Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times

Fashion News: New Web series helps figure out 'What to Wear, Where'

 A handy new Web series,  "What to Wear, Where," launched on Yahoo on Monday. The  series is hosted by Hillary Kerr and Katherine Power, co-founders of the fashion website Who What Wear. The initial offering explained what to wear to a daytime, cocktail hour or formal wedding, then provided links to shop the looks.

Kristen Stewart and Charlize Theron both wore diaphanous, black gowns to Monday's London premiere of "Snow White and the Huntsman" (due to open in theaters June 1). Stewart's was by Marchesa and Theron's by Chanel, but they were similar enough -- in that they were transparent -- to make one wonder if they were purposefully going for the same look. [The Cut] 

First Lady Michelle Obama wore a perfect spring dress last week at an event for children whose parents are in the military and their families. The sunny dress with draped neckline is by Rachel Roy.

Coty on Monday withdrew its $10.7-billion takeover bid for Avon. [WWD] (Subscription required]

Bond No. 9's latest fragrance is a celebration of gay marriage. It's called  "I Love N.Y. For Marriage Equality," and is, of course, unisex. [Racked]

Ryan Lochte, a six-time Olympic-medal-winning swimmer, soccer player Hope Solo and tennis champ Serena Williams share the June cover of Vogue, in recognition of the impending Olympics. [The Cut]  

Opening Ceremony is also focusing on the Olympics in the premiere issue in August of a new, collectible magazine it's publishing, OC Annual. [WWD]    

 Kim Kardashian went incognito for a fashion shoot in downtown L.A., wearing a short black wig that made her look a lot like her mom, Kris Jenner. [People]

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--Susan Denley 

Photos:  Kristen Stewart, left, with Charlize Theron, right, and Chris Hemsworth pose at the premiere of "Snow White and the Huntsman" in London on Monday. Credit: Alastair Grant / AP Photo

 First Lady Michelle Obama greets guests during a reception for military children and their families in honor of Mother's Day in the East Room at the White House last week. Credit:  Saul Loeb/AFP/GettyImages

Fashion News: Jessica Simpson to design line for Destination Maternity

Jessica Simpson is designing a line for Destination Maternity, which seems fitting because hers was one of the most watched celebrity pregnancies of the year (culminating in the birth of daughter Maxwell earlier this month). The line is scheduled to launch in the fall. [Racked] 

Rosie Pope, host of Bravo's "Pregnant in Heels," gave birth to a daughter on Mother's Day -- and this being modern times, she tweeted through labor. When the going got rough, her husband took over the tweeting so fans didn't have to miss a thing. [People]

In L.A., beleaguered pregnant women are seeking help from baby planners who can help set up nurseries, figure out which stroller will best meet a family's needs and otherwise offer advice and comfort. [Los Angeles Times]

Lunch and a shopping spree with Paris and Nicky Hilton is among the prizes that are to be up for bid as part of the "Race to Erase M.S. Gala," scheduled for May 18 at the Hyatt Regency Century Plaza Hotel in Los Angeles. [Society News LA]

Ray-Ban celebrates its 75th anniversary this year with a new collection and an advertising campaign that nods to its past. [WWD] (Subscription required.)

"Fashion Star" had only modest ratings in its freshman season, but NBC plans to bring the show back for a second season. [Hollywood Reporter]

Last week, a tagger named Kidult painted the word "art" across the front of Marc Jacobs' store in SoHo. Jacobs responded by slapping a photo of the graffitied store on what he is calling "Art by Art Jacobs" T-shirts and putting them up for sale for $689 each. [The Cut] 

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-- Susan Denley

Photo: Former professional football player Eric Johnson and fiancee Jessica Simpson attend the Footwear News Achievement Awards at the Museum of Modern Art in New York in November. Credit: Mike Coppola / Getty Images

For the mom-to-be: Baby planners and maternity wear

There's a lot of uncertainty about having a baby. Which crib? Toys? Stroller? What about the rest of the gear? What about eco-friendly products?

Women used to rely on their mothers, their sisters, their aunts or their friends for answers to these questions. But sometimes it's best to let the professionals take over.

Baby planners -- a.k.a. baby concierges, a.k.a. maternity consultants -- are increasing in number, and, naturally, they seem to be thriving in Los Angeles. Read Heather John's report to get the scoop on the folks who "take the labor out of your delivery."

Then check out the latest in maternity wear. Being pregnant doesn't mean you have to look like you're wearing a sack. In fact, the sartorial landscape for pregnant women is only getting better.

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-- Alice Short

Photo: Ellie Miller, left, and Melissa Gould started a baby planning business in Studio City almost six years ago. Credit: Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times

 

Johnny Depp's 'Dark Shadows' sunglasses were a costume challenge

Tim Burton's big-screen remake of "Dark Shadows" might not be everyone's cup of fresh AB-Negative, but since it reunited the director not only with Johnny Depp but with another frequent collaborator -- three-time Academy Award-winning costume designer Colleen Atwood -- on a period movie set in 1972, we knew the costumes would be a rich vein to tap indeed.

My Q&A with Atwood about the costume inspirations (which include everything from a Virginia Slims ad to David Bailey books and DIY crafts) and the provenance of some of the key wardrobe pieces appears in this Sunday's Image section. 

Among the things we learned from Atwood? Apparently American heads circa 1972 were a wee bit smaller, something she said made it challenging once she'd found the right vintage sunglasses for the characters.

"And, once I found the perfect pair for Johnny [Depp] I needed to get several pair made -- since he's a principal," she told us. "And I couldn't find anyone here willing to do it. Finally, when I got to London, I found someone there who would rise to the occasion."

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-- Adam Tschorn

Photos: Left, the cast of the Tim Burton directed "Dark Shadows" includes Helena Bonham Carter, from left, Chloe Grace Moretz, Eva Green, Gully McGrath, Bella Heathcote, Johnny Depp, Ray Shirley, Jackie Earle Haley, Jonny Lee Miller and Michelle Pfeiffer. At right, Eva Green as Angelique Bouchard. Credit: Warner Bros.

Alexis Bittar, fashion jewelry's renaissance man, set for expansion

 

I can think of no better time than Mother's Day weekend to discuss jewelry. Fashion jewelry design is in the midst of a renaissance the likes of which we haven't seen since the 1980s. And Alexis Bittar blazed the trail.

In the past two decades, the New York-based jewelry designer has gone from selling his signature colorful, hand-carved Lucite pieces on the streets of SoHo to bejeweling leading ladies in Hollywood and beyond, including First Lady Michelle Obama (pictured below wearing one of his pins to the State of the Union address in January), Lady Gaga, Madonna, Cameron Diaz, Meryl Streep and Rihanna. At the same time, he's managed to keep the core of his collection in an accessible $225 to $645 price range.

Bittar has also challenged the definition of fashion muse by eschewing prepubescent models in his ad campaigns in favor of real women, such as eccentric octogenarian Iris Apfel, "Dynasty" diva Joan Collins and, most recently, "Ab Fab" couple Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley.

In a story for Sunday's Image section, I caught up with Bittar to talk about how the jewelry business has changed over the years and what he's planning for his own brand, now that he has a new business partner in private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners.

-- Booth Moore

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Photos, from top: Alexis Bittar and pieces from his spring 2012 collection from the designer.

First Lady Michelle Obama at the State of the Union address on Jan. 24. Credit:  Mark Wilson/Getty Images.

Vidal Sassoon: Remembering an L.A. style icon

When most people think of the British-born Vidal Sassoon, who died Wednesday at age 84, they think Carnaby Street.

But he also had a role in shaping Los Angeles as a city of style.

"He opened a salon on Rodeo Drive when Beverly Hills was just coming of age among trendsetters," said Rose Apodaca, author and former Los Angeles bureau chief of Women's Wear Daily. "And he saw Los Angeles as this exciting place where rules were being broken. We know about swinging London; he saw Los Angeles as an extension of that."

He was drawn to the avant-garde fashion and art scene in 1960s and '70s L.A. that revolved around designer Rudi Gernreich and model-muse Peggy Moffitt (pictured with him above), who has worn Sassoon's famous five-point haircut since 1965.

"I can remember showing him Rudi's sketches and explaining how he and Rudi were doing something very similar by thinking architecturally and not out of the same old box," Moffitt said Thursday.

When Sassoon moved here permanently in 1973, he fully embraced the L.A. lifestyle, becoming a major museum benefactor and modern art collector, and restoring homes by Neutra and others. He was also a fitness enthusiast, early to the trend of Pilates and an avid swimmer.

"Vidal always loved Los Angeles," said Etienne Taenaka, manager of the Sassoon salon in Beverly Hills. "He used to say the street is the longest runway in the world. And he loved looking at people here. He’d say, 'Etienne, she has tremendous style.'”

Through his Vidal Sassoon hairstyling schools, he influenced people of all ages. "He was a gentleman, genuine and generous," said Taenaka, adding that a memorial event is being planned for the fall.

"He always thought of the other person, which stems from his beginnings as a very poor kid from the East End. In a number of ways, his career was all about recognizing youth and giving them opportunities. When he would walk into any of our academies, people just clamored to be with him."

To read more about Sassoon's legacy in L.A., click here.

-- Booth Moore

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Photo: Hairstylist Vidal Sassoon and model Peggy Moffitt attend a screening of "Vidal Sassoon: The Movie" at the Hammer Museum on Feb. 15, 2011 in Los Angeles. Credit: David Livingston/Getty Images.

Macy's Bar III hits the Rose Bowl flea market on Sunday

Macy's in-house Bar III brand has taken to the great outdoors -- or at least tented parking lots -- with a traveling pop-up road show that will be decamping to the Rose Bowl flea market in Pasadena on Sunday.

It's part of a tour that's taking the label's ready-to-wear, menswear, jewelry and home collections to hip, vintage street fairs, bazaars and flea market locales across the country and kicked off last weekend at the Hester Street Fair on Manhattan's Lower East Side. After departing Southern California, it will continue on to similar venues in Chicago and Denver before returning to New York City.

The only hitch is, if you pop into the branded Bar III tent and find something that strikes your fancy, you won't be able to take it with you -- the merchandise on hand will consist only of a run of sizes for customers to try on, with purchases being completed on site through Macy's website. (The upside is free shipping and the fact that dropping $100 or more earns you a free tote.)

Along for the ride is Los Angeles-based fashion blogger Aimee Song (Song of Style) who, in her role as event host/brand ambassador will be on hand to consult with customers.

Until as recently as last week, the notion of a gargantuan retailer such as Macy's trying to seem hipster-level cool and street-style savvy by tapping bloggers as brand ambassadors and setting up shop at flea markets might have struck me as kind of curious. Then, on May 6,  another massive retail chain -- Target -- took the wraps off its latest initiative: the Shops at Target, a collaborative effort with a handful of boutique retail brands from across the country (including Privet House, the Webster and Polka Dog Bakery).

Two days earlier, New York City-based publishing company Sandow Media announced that it had purchased worldwide rights to the Fred Segal brand -- a name that has become virtually synonymous with the carefully curated, style-savvy, Southern California shopping experience -- with plans to open retail centers like the ones here in Los Angeles and Santa Monica (which weren't part of the Sandow purchase) around the globe, as well as put the Fred Segal name and logo on a range of apparel, houseware and beauty products.

It feels almost as if the frenzied collaboration strategy of the last several years (Banana Republic wine bottles, anyone?) is shifting focus from the talents of the fashion designer to the talents of the boutique buyers and street-fair organizers in the quest for curating -- instead of creating -- the cool.

Given the ever-increasing clutter on the retail -- and e-tail -- landscape, it's not hard to see the appeal.

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-- Adam Tschorn

Photo: Macy's private-label Bar III kicked off a cross-country flea market tour at the Hester Street Fair in New York City last weekend. Photo: G. Ascencio

No Mother's Day: Christy Turlington spotlights maternal mortality

Model Christy Turlington doesn't want you to celebrate Mother's Day. In fact, she's devoted an entire campaign to encouraging mothers to disappear on the holiday.

It's all part of her No Mother's Day campaign in collaboration with New York-based creative agency CHI&Partners and Every Mother Counts, meant to bring awareness to the hundreds of thousands of women who die each year from complications related to pregnancy or childbirth. In the film shown above, produced by Turlington's husband Ed Burns, Turlington and friends, including Jennifer Connelly and Debra Messing, ask women to disappear on Mother's Day in an act of solidarity.

"Say no to gifts and phone calls, or no to gifts and yes to phone calls, or just go silent on social media -- it's your choice," said Turlington in a release. "Our primary hope is that you spend a few moments on May 13 to think about those unable to do the same."

Turlington made her directorial debut in 2010 with the film "No Woman, No Cry" where she chronicled the stories of at-risk pregnant women in Tanzania, Bangladesh, Guatemala and a prenatal clinic in the U.S. The No Mother's Day campaign is another step in her ongoing efforts to bring about awareness.

Turlington measures the success of the campaign by the number of "actions" taken to reduce maternal mortality, with the goal being 5 million actions by 2015. These actions include ways to raise awareness and funds. The website Everymothercounts.org details how to get involved, including signing a pledge to help reduce needless deaths, running or walking your own Every Mother Counts 5K and purchasing the official team shirts, giving a monetary donation or donating a phone.

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— Jenn Harris
twitter.com/jenn_harris

Video: Christy Turlington's video to promote the No Mother's Day mobilization campaign.

FDA delays implementing sunscreen rules

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration announced Friday that it will delay the implementation of new sunscreen rules that had been scheduled to take effect in June. The rules are designed to give consumers better information about the effectiveness of over-the-counter sunscreens and will, for the first time, allow the bottles, tubes and sprays to say that sunscreens protect against skin cancer and early skin aging. The FDA says the rules will take effect in mid-December to allow the manufacturers of affected products to fully implement them.

The new rules, announced last June, are the result of more than 30 years of deliberation. The FDA had been considering new regulations since 1978 and released some proposals in 2007, but it subsequently concluded that the labeling system under consideration would cause too much consumer confusion.

The new rules going into effect Dec. 17 for large companies, and one year later for smaller manufacturers, ban claims such as "sweat-proof" and "waterproof" and prevent manufacturers from labeling products with unsubstantiated claims of instant or all-day protection.

"FDA just gave consumers 1,800 more reasons to turn to our sunscreen database," said Sonya Lunder, senior analyst with the Environmental Working Group, which publishes an annual database focusing on the safety and efficacy of sunscreens. Its 2012 report will be issued Wednesday (May 16).

"We are baffled that FDA deems it necessary to delay such weak regulations," Lunder said in a statement released Friday. "The agency has caved to industry pressure every step of the way."

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-- Susan Carpenter

Photo credit: Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times